The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Problems with CPP Master Cylinder Bracket

I bought a CPP 5559MCA master cylinder bracket so I could upgrade to a dual reservoir master cylinder. I read about this bracket from Cletis' Tech Tip.

I'm having trouble with the parts. Instructions show a Female clevis joint bolting up to the brake pedal, but I have a Male clevis joint. No long threaded nut to connect the two and use for fine adjustment. And the bolt to hold the clevis joint to the pedal arm is probably 1/2" too short, with no spacers to make things line up.
Complete assembly
No Clevis and Push Rod don't attach

Don't align side to side either. Pedal bolt too short, no spacers.

So I guess I have to go to Princess Auto to get a male clevis joint, and bunch of grade 8 bolts to see if I can make it work.

I've read others report similar problems with CPP products. How difficult is it to ship the correct parts, and print accurate, clear instructions?

Anyone ever tried to use the original master cylinder as a bracket only, and mount a small master cylinder on the back ?
Check out part number MB15559. I like the idea of having a remote reservoir instead of trying to work through a hole in the cab, with all the dirt around the master cylinder reservoir.
ABS Power Brake.com

Master Cylinder using original for brake pedal bracket

Appreciate your feedback and experience.

Looks like they sent you the wrong stuff. Did they offer to make it right?


I just used one and the instructions weren't the best, but sufficed. I had to space the clevis a bit, but all in all, what they sent me bolted on easily and has worked well so far. Much easier than fabricating all that stuff. Price wasn't bad either.



I made the hole big enough to work through..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/Avette4me/My%2058/Brakes/HoleforMasterCyl.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/Avette4me/My%2058/Brakes/CoverforMaster-mockup.jpg

They shorted you a piece. There should be a union to join the clevis to the master cylinder rod.

I solved the mis-alignment this way: (from the tech tip)

"I picked up a 2" long 3/8-16 bolt, a nut and lock washer, all in Grade 8. I used the supplied washer and spacer on opposite sides of the rod end. I put my new nut and lock washer on one side of the pedal and the supplied nyloc nut on the other side. Now the bolt is tight on the pedal and the plunger goes straight into the master cylinder.

Wrong parts, they will send you new one's, good company. The female piece you are missing is called a rod end not a clevis. A clevis end is "U" shaped. I am fabricating my own remote reservoir system. +/- $15

I sent an email to their customer service dept.
Said a replacement Female rod end, and new push rod would be sent to me. Haven't received it yet. I'll let you know when it comes in.

But I'm still thinking of adding an adapter plate to the back of my old M/C... New '74 Nova dual circuit M/C is $50. Should be just as effective.

Excuse my ignorance but what is CPP in the way of parts?

Classic Performance Parts

They sell lots of upgrades for our vehicles.

Regards.

Finally got the new linkage parts. Still has a push rod that is too short for my deep bore 74 Chevelle dual circuit master cylinder. I made my own.

Its hard for someone like CPP to know all the various OEM components their kits might be matched with, and since the needs of different truck owners vary it doesn't make sense to limit the options to just one master cylinder or a short list of possible masters.

Adapting the kit and instructions should be part of our expectations when tackling a project like this.

I know its frustrating and we always want the kit to fit exactly our individual truck and needs, but its not a realistic expectation.

I have the CPP bracket on my '55 1st Suburban. I had trouble with the alignment of the rod and ended up leaving off the retainer on the pedal pivot. Since both come through the floor and are on that pivot and attached to rods on the other end, they don't seem to move far enough for it to be a problem except in the occasional hard corner when the brake pedal will stick a little coming back up.

Not perfect, but I've been driving it that way since late 2002 and have been satisfied.

My next moves with this truck will probably include a firewall mounted booster and that will change the whole thing.

....while sharing experiences I can say that my booster/m.c./pedal & brackets bolted up just great on my 52 Panel. I got mine from PirateJack in Asheville,N.C. and it all worked very good. I did enlarge the top of the hole for the brake pedal but feel that was some error on my part replacing all the floorboards & and a little problem with crossmember was not PirateJacks fault. All their parts fit like peas in a pod!
...and more than a $100 less than the "usual" vendors we use.
Just my "experience".

I did the same upgrade from CPP had had no problems. They have always done me right and quickly made any necessary corrections. Great company.

I have their dual master cyl. and bracket, but used the original pedal bracket since I am running a 235 and T-5 combo. Only issue I had was that the mounting bolt heat stuck out too far from the bracket to allow the MC lid hold down to swing forward to fill the MC. pulled the bolt and ground down the head and it was fine.

bringing this back to the top... has anyone done this modification successfully to a '46 1/2 ton truck? i am in the process of correcting work from a previous owner... noticed CPP lists their dual MC bracket for 47-54 and 55-59 chassis. im not familiar with the differences between frames for 1946 and 47. thanks