The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Replacing the Ball Seal

OK, I searched for U-Joint Replacement and Ball Seal and it returned to me over 1000 returns on each search. I looked through the first 25 pages on the engine and driveline shop forum. I can't find what I am looking for, the tech tip I did find for swapping out a 3:55 says to search to change the U-Joint or Ball Seal and follow those directions but the search comes up blank. Sorry, went on a rant there and don't know why. Ok My Question.

I want to replace the leaking ball seal. The Tourque tube knereled nut that threads on the tourque tube rear of the tranny was loose and just backed off and sitting on the tube, I want to replace that seal also. The bent over tabs on the nut holders on the U-Joint caps were all tore up and in pieces. One bolt was only finger tight, so I am glad I took it apart.

My problem is the U-Joint is disconnected and I pulled the ball back towards the rearend. I jacked the rear end up and put a extended jack stand on the tourqe tube, it just doesn't go quite high enough before hitting the floor so I can't clear the tranny when I try to pull out the yoke from the tube. I am working from the top with the floor pan off.

Am I attempting this correctly? I wonder if I should be jacking up the tranny and letting the tube lay on the cross member? But it doesn't look like there will be enough clearance that way either because the tranny will hit the cab. Can someone guide a poor lost soul on how to remove the yoke so the ball will slide off and I can replace the seals and buy new bolt holders for the U-Joint? What am I missing on how to do this?

Thanks John

Had that same problem when I did mine. I think it is because you jacked the back wheels and that pushes the axle forward. The axle pivots on the spring mount because of the torque tube. I could be wrong but nonetheless what I found works much better is to simply remove the crossmember. 4 bolts each side and its off in minutes. Of course you have to disconnect the rear trans mount from the cross member. I did it once when I changed the clutch and years later when the seal in the torque tube went.

OK, I'll do that tomorrow, Thanks

53John3100, please accept my apologies for the failure of our Search feature. I know it isn't worth a toot and not what people expect it to be. Sometimes it will work but it certainly needs an overhaul which I've campaigned for over a long period. Help is all out and complain to the Administrators. I urge all to do this as this thing has been on the back burner way too long.
Thanks you.

Apologies not needed, I just didn't want you to think the first place I went was directly to post my question, I know server time and space is at a premium (I have donated to Peg and John to help with a small amount of costs) The search feature when it does work is a good tool, that way you can read what you want and not have to wait a day or two until someone with the knowledge you are seeking signs on. It allows you to read the same question that was asked and answered a few months or in some cases a few years ago... just didn't want anyone to think I was being lazy in a nut shell. I got my answer and I am going to drop the cross member today and see how I make out with that! Thanks Dave!

Regards, John

John, when I replaced the u-joint on my 52 a couple of years ago,
If I remember right I had to loosen the trany support, and GENTLY jack up the trany. I found to much lift was as bad as to little. Then loosen the ball collar nut, and expose the u-joint. Split the u-joint and the torque tube should fall down out of the way. If you do this from underneath the truck you may want to support the torque tube. You can then pull the rear 1/2 of the u-joint out of the torque tube. The loose torque tube is supriseingly heavy. This also exposes the bolt that attaches the front 1/2 of the u-joint to the transmission. The ball collar nut had rope packing in it rather than a gasket, I don't know if that is the correct seal as it may have been something the previous owner did.

Recently had similar problems since the splines 1n the yoke had torque twisted just a bit and it would not slide back on the drive shaft and release. If you lift the rear using the frame, not the axle, the springs will bow enough to allow the torque tube to move back and should allow the U-joint to come apart and the yoke removed. Support the torque tube with a jack and use extreme caution when under the vehicle. Safety (yours) is always the first concern.

Thanks for the advise, What I did was take out the 8 bolts and drop to cross member, it is an hours worth of work but then I let the tourque tube drop onto a jack stand and it was done... all in all it really was pretty easy and now I can lay on the creeper and get to it, I don't have to lean over in the truck and work through the floor. I am getting old you know. LOL.. OK, well thanks. I also dropped the tranny oil because one of the locking ears that you bend over is missing off of the U-Joint bolt lock holder. Nothing came out so tomorrow I will take the top of the tranny to see if I can see it or maybe it has already been ground up. So much for not having to lean over and work through the floor. I also took the side cover off and pushed all the old oil through the drain hole and into the drain pan, but it wasn't there either. I **Just** had that tranny rebuilt 100 miles ago and don't want to ruin it, so it was really good that the ball seal was never put in when it went back together and it was leaking. Thanks John