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#660311 07/07/2010 6:19 AM
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Ok, newbie here so be gentle.

I bought a 1949 3800, sight unseen off ebay. Was a daily driver until recently and evidently suffers from a mangled back bumper and a few rust spots, according to my friend who saw the thing (he is the owner of a 1953 3/4 ton).

Two things come to mind...

1) Is there a way to keep the stock front-end and do a disk brake conversion? (saw the refurbish of the master solenoid and plan on doing this at the bare minimum). Would only require front brake disk, rear drum ok.

2) Knowing that it has split wheels (or whatever you call them), is there a fix for that problem or a source for tires, I guess no-one wants to service those.

Good thing is that it has a 235 in it, not sure if original or not (ie pressurized/slung) but I guess I will soon find out.

Being a runner and a relative straight body, I dont think 2500.00 was too much to spend, please tell me I didn't get jacked...

An any help would be great

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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If the body is good $2,500 probably isn't bad. It really comes down to questions of rust and paperwork in my mind. If you didn't get a clear title you paid $2,500 too much. If you got a clear title and minimal rust to repair you did pretty well.

A '49 1-ton would not have a 235 from the factory. Does it have two valve cover bolts or four cap screws around the edge of the value cover? If four its a 235, if two its probably a 216.

There is no kit to put disks on the front of a 3800. The guys who have done it have worked it out on their own. A little searching here should turn up some tips on how they did it.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
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OldSub #660348 07/07/2010 12:18 PM
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Steve -- beg to differ -- My '49 3804 came from the factory with a 235 (babbited, naturally). It was not a special order by the buyer (who I knew). It *could* have been a dealer order. But the bottom line is that it did come from the factory with a 235. The pre-'54 babbited 235's have the same valve cover as the 216's. Best bet is to check the engine block casting number.

Newguy -- Just because they are multi-piece rims doesn't make them evil. Most big truck or ag tire shops will handle them. It's just the center splits (RH-5s) that are evil.

And as for the price, not sure about Texas, but here on the middle Atlantic Coast/Rust Belt, that's a great deal for a driveable/streetable truck with minimal rust.

V/R
John


~ John

A kid raised on Hotwheels, Matchbox and Tonka cannot be reasonably expected to own only one vehicle as an adult.

1949 Chevrolet 3804
In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum
1973 IH 1310 Dump
1963 Kaiser M38A1
2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie"
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Just to add to the confusion about the engine: as Steve posted, a 235 engine was not listed as a Regular Production Option for a 38xx truck in 1949; however, as John posted, just about anything could be ordered by a customer or by a dealer. Also, it would not be uncommon for an original buyer's recollection to be unreliable and/or a one-owner truck to have had an engine replaced over the years (and somehow everyone has forgotten about the change).

As John has asked, the block and head casting codes (and date casting codes) would be helpful in identifying the engine-year; and, the engine serial number would be quite helpful in identifying the application of the engine (the RPO and size of truck, if 1949).

Here is some information about the locations of these codes.

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Special orders may have been more common in 1949, I'm not old enough that I can claim to remember.... There is no RPO for a 235 in a '49 3800 and my bet is that its more likely a very early engine replacement rather than a factory job.

Casting numbers off the motor would only prove that the motor is that old. With a clear set of photocopies (right!) off the titles starting with the original paper work, and assuming this one was always titled off the motor, I could be persuaded that is what happened. Right now I remain skeptical.

I know several people old enough to remember 1949. I don't trust their memories and would prefer to go with the documentation rather than 60-year-old memories.

It can be amusing to to engage with people who remember days in the 20's and 30's as if they were yesterday, and yet remember nothing of yesterday. The mind is an incredible thing, but you need to be careful how far you trust it.

You can say your 235 is an original 1949 and short of casting numbers it would be hard to prove otherwise. Convincing as aging skeptic like me that it was orignally in a '49 3800 is going to be much harder.

I have a '51 4400 that is supposed to be a babbit 235. I've never looked hard enough to find proof. Parked next to the '51 is a '52 that clearly has the later 235 in it based on the valve cover.

How can anyone ever prove these things?



1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...
OldSub #660411 07/07/2010 5:45 PM
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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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....there is a thread posted by Knedirt around here someowhere in the past couple days. IF MY MEMORY is correct something was said about a small "plate" on the drivers side if it was a 235 babbitt...... I better shut up before you guys call in the white coats on me.

Reading this MIGHT help....the plate I mentioned is HOYT's post which is currently the last post....but its not CONCLUSIVE
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=659780#Post659780

Last edited by Achipmunk; 07/07/2010 5:52 PM.

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Welcome to the land of 3800's
Pick up a copy of "How To Restore Your Chevrolet Pickup" by Motorbooks workshop. Amazon for $19 new or $13 used. Covers everything broadly and give a few lead as to where to find parts, etc... You'll find answers to your brake questions.

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Thanks everyone.

I noticed in pictures (after reading this forum) that the engine cover looked like a later date engine, doesn't have the two bolts at the top, assuming it was a later addition.

Doesn't bother me, cause the 235 is a better engine, but my friend said he did not see an oil filter, which I am wondering if it is a "oil slinger" or not. Either way, I got a 1953 BSA that slings and it doesn't scare me.

It will be fun to learn about when I get it...

Know the only question being, if the rust is too bad, do I rat-rod it, or keep it stock and restore. I like the restoration idea, but some of those ratty looking chopped up trucks are pretty sweet.

I will post picks as soon as possible, love the site, you guys have a lot of information and looking forward to this project!

Thanks again, more to come...

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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An oil filter was an option or an accessory for all 216/235 engines. An oil filter was not standard equipment with any 216/235 equipped truck.

Having an oil filter is not related to an engine being an "oil slinger" (which I guess refers to the lubrication system on a 216 or a low-pressure 235).

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....the rust is probably in the usual places on these trucks. There are lots of repair panels available from vendors and there is a couple fellows who make them. Poke around in the paint and body and you'll find lots of info....and ask folks there.


1937 Chevy Pickup
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1952 Chevy Panel
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1950 Chevy Coupe
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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
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Remember that it is always easier to prove that something is true than it is to prove its not true. Proving something is not true means you've been able to capture and review ALL the evidence. In today's world of old trucks that is a very difficult thing to pull off.

This is why there are people who live to determine provenance of antique stuff. Its hard to do with confidence and when some antiques are worth big money the advantages of being there can be very rewarding!


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...
OldSub #663360 07/18/2010 2:02 PM
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Anybody know the production numbers for the 1950 3800 from the Oakland Plant?

3800bk #663464 07/18/2010 10:05 PM
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I'm not sure where you'd find numbers like that. you can get in touch with GM and order a restoration pack with detailed info, but I don't really know how detailed.
There is some good info here though.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyresto/50index.htm

I just bought a 1950 3800 and it was made at the Oakland plant as well. I'm in San
Jose, where are you?


1950 Chevy 3800 1-Ton Long Bed
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I am in Sonoma. Mine is a stake bed.
Runs and looks decent,needs some TLC.


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Originally Posted by Markbpm
Welcome to the land of 3800's
Pick up a copy of "How To Restore Your Chevrolet Pickup" by Motorbooks workshop. Amazon for $19 new or $13 used. Covers everything broadly and give a few lead as to where to find parts, etc... You'll find answers to your brake questions.

I have read most of the one ton stuff off and on and don't remember seeing this book mentioned before. Anyone else have any input on this book?


My new 1949 Chevy One Ton Dump Truck. Still have it but parked, needs a new motor.
1953 2 ton parts truck Long Gone
1957 GMC LCF On 75 Cadillac Eldorado Frame
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IBenDcars -- For what it's worth, we have a book review of it here.

Tom's book and the shop manual are the first two books you should get.

Old Sub -- you make a valid point which I will concede. Grudgingly. But it's a good thing there's a whole continent between us ... smile

John

Regards,
John



~ John

A kid raised on Hotwheels, Matchbox and Tonka cannot be reasonably expected to own only one vehicle as an adult.

1949 Chevrolet 3804
In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum
1973 IH 1310 Dump
1963 Kaiser M38A1
2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie"
2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 171
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well, I finally put an album on webshots & put a link next to my signature so you guys can check out my truck. Remember it's a work in progress!
Robert


Robert French MY3800FIRETRUCK
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Dear 1949chevy3800 I have just about finished restoring my 1953 1 ton and I powder coated the original wheels. They have the split ring on the outside and Les Schawb mounted me some new 750 by 17 inch tires with no problem. I've owned many trucks that have had thisw type of wheel and never had trouble getting them repaired. Funton

Funton #696163 11/18/2010 11:21 PM
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Not to hijack your toopic but im also new to the 3600 and 3800 truck i picked one up for parts mainly the doors for my 49 suburban the truck is a 48 1 ton but how can i tell if it is a 3600 or 3800 normally it says on the hood correct this hood one says gmc
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/IMAG0430.jpg


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1949 Chevrolet Suburban
Non stovebolt CHEVROLET
1958 Impala Convertible
1963 Impala Convertible
MY 1949 SUBURBAN
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/B3Le4kQmkKGrHqQOKkIEyOD6OnQjBMlR5ZKJng_121.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/B3LfyCQEWkKGrHqEOKkEEyNoRGLUBMlR8HrYzg_121.jpg
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the 3/4 ton frame rails have a hump over the rear axle, while the 1 ton frame is flat. I believe the gmc designation is 100 for 1/2 ton & 150 for 3/4 ton? but I've never been as familiar with gmc as I'd like to be, so maybe someone else can help us out here.


Robert French MY3800FIRETRUCK

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