Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for
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| | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 105 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 105 | I just snapped my rear main cap bolt in the block while I was torquing it. I smashed my hand into the block when it let go. The stud is flush in the block. I'm so [censored] I can barely type this.
Does anyone know of a good machine shop in Central FL that KNOWS 235's? | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 210 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 210 | Dude I feel your pain, I snapped off several exhaust manifold studs on my Willys MB flat head 4 block two years ago and then broke off an "easy-out" bit on top of it!!! It cost me dearly!. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Normally a bolt with break with a twisting pattern. If the threads were clean and oiled, you may be able to turn the bolt out using the broken piece. That is with the cap off. I have done this with a head bolt. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Been there, done that. You should be able to get the remanant of the bolt out just as truckernix states. You might also be able to "drive" it out using a small punch to turn the bolt. For a replacement, try the local John Deere dealer. Take one of the good bolts with you. There is a head bolt application, I don't recal the part number or application off the top of my head, that matches the 4 bolts in the #4 main of the 235. That's what I ended up doing with mine, after not being able to come up with a suitable replacement. Not even ARP could help me.
Bill Burmeister
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | You'll need an item called an "easy out". Drill a hole in the bolt, tap in the easy out and then slowly turn counter clockwise, she should come out. If this does not work you may need to add some HEAT.
Best of luck and as mentioned, we've ALL been there, this is just your initiation.
Jim | | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 105 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 105 | OK, I've cooled off a little. I have another parts engine I can get another bolt from. I'm just not looking forward to the extraction of the failed bolt. I'm a marine mechanic, so I'm very familiar with frozen and broken bolts, I just didn't think this engine was going to fight me this hard. It's been a battle the whole way... Thanks for the advice, I'll get out my easy out kit and some patience. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 210 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 210 | I've seen folks use a reverse drill bit to get those booger out. Be careful with the Easy-Out, they are very brittle. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,742 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,742 | Let me suggest using a drill press if possible to do the center-drilling. You only get one chance to get it right, and dealing with an off-center hole just adds to the frustration factor. Use a straight-flute EZ-out for the best chance at getting it to move without expanding the broken-off piece in the hole. Good luck!
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 461 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 461 | Once you get it out, check with ARP and get a stud kit. That's what I did and it was great to be able to not worry about twisting those old mains. Call them and ask for their best price, they can cut you a little break. Part # 132-5402 http://www.arp-bolts.com/ | | |
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