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On May 30 I put about three quarts of MMO into the engine of my 57' that had been in two floods and was subsequently frozen. I know it has been sitting for about 15 to 20 years. My grandfather put some diesel in after the last time it was flooded with water. I drained the diesel out and took the spark plugs out and squirted some MMO into each then plugged the hole so nothing could find its way in. I waited two weeks, so last Sunday I took a wrench and tried to turn the crankshaft and to my surprise it moved. I continued to move it back and forth and got it to turn about 1/5 of a rotation. I then drained the engine again and put some more MMO in the spark plug holes and the top of the block. I'm going to wait another couple of weeks and see if I can move the crank any more. I did all of this without having to disassemble the engine. So if I get this to work I know that any other work I do on the engine will be worth it. Just thought I'd share my experience here.

It's a great idea, I've run that route myself, but I personally would go with Kroil, I've had great luck with it. Just hard personally to get enough of it to do anything with, too much time for 24 hours!

That's cool. I passed on a 65 Sprite that was for sale for 1800.
It had been parked for 20 years in a carport. I knew the gastank and carbs were probably shot, but I decided against it cause the engine would not budge.

If I would have had your knowledge, I might have taken it up.

Just letting it "soak" for a couple of weeks might have done it.

You should pop the valve cover off and check for stuck valves. Chances are that their are valves stuck open and some shut, the shut ones will bend push rods and the open ones could be bent by a piston coming over top dead center.

I'll make sure to check on the valves when I see if the crank will turn anymore. Thanks for the info.

MMO is good- - - -Kroil is better. They claim Kroil will find its way through a gap of one millionth of an inch. I know I can pit it into the cylinders on a ring-rusted engine, wait a few days, and drain it out of the oil pan to run it through again.

www.kanolabs.com

Jerry

I have a can of Kroil but without knowing exactly where all the corrosion was I used MMO so that when I do disassemble the engine and find the exact spots that are giving me problems I would still have the Kroil. I've heard good things about using Kroil from several people on here so I can't wait to see how it works.

I've recycled Kroil from an engine-freeing job by straining it through a couple of layers of coffee filter. Even if it gets a little dirty, it still has excellent penetrating ability.
Jerry

About a year ago I read an article where they tested different penetrating solutions to see which one was the best. I can't remember where exactly I read it but anyway....they applied all of the popular brands that we are all familiar with and one that they custom mixed to rusted nuts on a bolt. They let them all set for the same period of time(not sure of the time) and then they used a torq wrench to measure the amount of force needed to remove the rusted nut.

The winner........the custom mixure of.....50% acetone.....50% power steering fluid.

....and now you know the rest of the story.....Paul Harvey.....Good day!!

Craig;

I heard about the acetone and ATF mixture too. But, I had a little MMO around so I mixed that with equal parts of acetone. Worked fantastic! I loosened stuff that PB Blaster wouldn't touch. I'll have to try the ATF when this batch runs out.

SimS