I did not remove the windows from my truck and am now trying to figure out the order to use while installing everything back. I have refurbished all of the parts. I am pre assmbling evrything and here is what I know...1. door handle and latch go in. 2. outer window molding in. The order of the rest has got me confused especially when to put the window and regulator in because everything need to fit into the channels on the ventilator and the rest of the channels on the door frame. I also ned to install the weather strip. Any advise would be very welcome!!!Thanks, Bob
Put the vent window assembly in, then the cat whiskers and channels and the rubber seal that fits in the horizontal channel just below the window opening. Then put the regulator in and then the glass.
Although I've not done this yet, I'm pretty sure that's correct because you are supposed to be able to replace a broken window without removing anything else so it just seems logical that it would be the last thing to go in.
.....it can be aggravating if the window channel is new or the glass is cut a little off so take your time and use good reasoning. Don't tighten up the wing vent assembly until you get the big side window in all the tracks. Getting the wing vent and glass in can be a little tricky for some....some go in easy. For me I pulled that cotton picking vent assembly about 6 times for various reasons and finally got to where I could just "drop it in". *** I had problems with the size of my glass and a window channel being waaay to tight. But they work good now!!
Note: if you have a shop manual it describes it pretty well. If you do not have a shop manual you can look at the ones Keith Hardy has put on line.
Got them in thanks to some patience and help from stovebolters! This is the process I used and it worked great. Install door latch and locks into door, install rubber sweeper in track, install outer garnish moulding, put cat whiskers / brush on interior garnish moulding and put to the side...I let my glue dry, install channel guide into door, put flexible window channel guide in and run it up the door...I used tape to hold it in at the top as the interior garnis is what really holds it in at the end, install window regulator, slide glass onto regulator and make sure it is in the channel, roll window almost all the way down, install wing vent...this can be tricky and make sure it is in the channel on the wing vent, roll the window all the way up to make sure everything is aligned, put the bolt in on the bottom of the vent window...have fun with that one!!!, install inner garnish moulding with 7 screws and you are done...then the hardware etc. Thanks for the help! Bob
install wing vent...this can be tricky and make sure it is in the channel on the wing vent
This is where I get lost. I just don't follow what you mean when you say "install wing vent" and then elaborate with "make sure it is on the channel on the wing vent".
Am I safe in assuming that you install the VENT WINDOW ASSEMBLY as one unit? If so what channel are you referring to?
Woody...Yes, install the wing vent window assembly as one unit as in your picture. To clarify my other comment...make sure the glass from the primary window slides completely into the channel on wing vent window assembly....not as easy as it sounds! I had to reach my arm up into the door and push the window glass hard into the main door channel before I could start to slide the vent window assmbly in. I hope this helps...Bob
Just used Mr Jackson procedure and it worked excellent. The window has to be at the right height to get the vent assembly in. To get the bottom bolt in put a mirror in the bottom access hole and shim the vent post over till the hole lines up.
The vent/wing window rubber fits OVER the garnish molding. You usually have to take a small screwdriver , spray some soapy water on the rubber,, and pull the rubber over the garnish. All depends on how dry and cracked, or flexible the rubber is.
Has anyone used the “metal spring clips to secure the window run channel (as described on page 1-10 of the 1954 shop manual)? I don’t have that/those clips and I don’t know what they look like, or how many are required. If they aren’t required I assume I am to glue the channel in place. Any recommendations on the glue I should use (permatex weatherstrip adhesive?) ??
Has anyone used the “metal spring clips to secure the window run channel (as described on page 1-10 of the 1954 shop manual)? I don’t have that/those clips and I don’t know what they look like, or how many are required. If they aren’t required I assume I am to glue the channel in place. Any recommendations on the glue I should use (permatex weatherstrip adhesive?) ??
I have the clips for my run channel. There are two types, flat ones and one with a finger that attaches at the bottom rear of the door. Here's a Link to the two types from The Filling Station.
Also a couple pics of the flat style as they came out of my doors.
I would definitely use the hook type that goes on the bottom of the channel, but I'd guess that you could glue in the rest of the channel, maybe adding a screw near the vent window divider bar that the manual show. I haven't decided whether I'll use the flat clips or not. My window channels may not be the originals, so don't necessarily use those dimensions I show.
[on edit] Here's a video from Jerry Kassis on door weatherstrip installation. Link
Last edited by klhansen; 06/14/20222:12 AM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.