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#652656 06/06/2010 2:23 AM
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J
jmh
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Its me again,

Can anyone tell me how to remove the rear brake drums on my 48 2ton.The 1.5 ton rears have 3 small screws that retain the drums.Got me some rebuilt wheel cylinders but I cant put them on if I cant get the drums off.

Thanks again,

JMH

jmh #652702 06/06/2010 5:36 AM
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C
'Bolter
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You have to remove the hub and drum all in one piece to get to the wheel cylinders.

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jmh
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I suppose you have to pull the axles to do so,right? Dumb question I know but I had to ask.

JMH

jmh #652763 06/06/2010 3:34 PM
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I can tell you how it was on my 52 and I'm assuming a 48 could be the same.
I didn't pull the drum and axle as an assy. because it weighs so much and I don't have a pet gorilla to handle the job.
Un-screw the small slotted screws in the drum which hold it to the hub flange and the drum will come off.
Then I pulled the axle to allow removal of the hub which blocks working on the brakes to some extent.
The hub comes off after you remove the lock nuts which you will see after you pull the axle.

Dan


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jmh #652765 06/06/2010 3:35 PM
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Hy jmh, yes you have to pull the axles, there should be two wheel bearing adjusting nuts with a locking plate in between them behind the axles, hope that helps.

3B #652956 06/07/2010 7:41 AM
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I know I did a step by step on these, and as I recall someone else recenly posted something with more detail also.
Anyway, if you have the integrated hub/drum like I do, and sounds like what 3B is describing, it's not real hard to take apart.

First take off the hub cover and pull out the axle.
Next, you should be able to see the top nut and locking tabs around the outer edge. Bend back the tabs and use a drift punch to remove the outer nut.
Next you'll remove the locking plate, the inner nut, and the washer as seen here. After that it's just a matter of sliding the drum off.

I have my wheels on in those photos because I didn't have access to powrfull enough tools so I pulled them off all at once to take in to be torn down.


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Thanks one and all.Pictures are worth a thousand words.I think now I will be able to remove my hubs.I did not know the hub and axle were splined. You learn something new everyday.These old bolts come with many suprises.

Thanks
JMH

jmh #653658 06/10/2010 2:08 AM
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Yeah cool... Floating axle. Axle breaks, you still have rubber on the road. My first experience with those too.


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1948 Chevy 2-Ton
jmh #660239 07/07/2010 2:11 AM
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jmh
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Its me again,

Dug into my rear hubs finally and all went well until I started to remove it.It wont come off.There is no ratchet to back the brake shoes off with.What now?

Thanks,

JMH

jmh #660254 07/07/2010 2:46 AM
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JMH,
You need to back the brake shoes off and to do that you turn the brake adjusting nuts (counterclockwise if I remember correctly). There are two on each side, located just fore and aft of the brake cylinder on each side of where the brake line goes in. If the cylinders are not rusted or frozen, the shoes will back off and the hub should come free. There are no slots to access the cylinders on the rear drums, you have to use the adjusting nuts which are attached to a pinion that turns the cylinder cap. Good luck.
Kent


1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
1942 Chevy 1/2 ton
1947 Diamond T Model 509
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton
1950 Chevy COE Model 5700 ~ "Barney" ~ And more pix
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Mine were a real bear too. My wheel cylinders were froze and the adjusters wouldn't turn. The drum was so tight it would slide the wheels rather than turn them. All I can tell you is that with about three hours time and two 3 ft crowbars they will come off 1/64th at a time. Just don't break the drum or bend the backing plate. That will lead to a really bad day.


1947, 1950, & 1952 Chevrolet 1/2 ton
1952 GMC 450 series Cab Over Engine
1946 Chevrolet 2 Ton
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jmh
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Thanks WF.It sure is nice to talk to someone that knows about this stuff.I turned them bolts and she came right off.I am sure Ill have more questions.

Thanks again,
JMH


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