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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,074 Posts1,055,914 Members48,429 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 79 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 79 | Its me again,
Can anyone tell me how to remove the rear brake drums on my 48 2ton.The 1.5 ton rears have 3 small screws that retain the drums.Got me some rebuilt wheel cylinders but I cant put them on if I cant get the drums off.
Thanks again,
JMH | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 | You have to remove the hub and drum all in one piece to get to the wheel cylinders. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 79 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 79 | I suppose you have to pull the axles to do so,right? Dumb question I know but I had to ask.
JMH | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 502 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 502 | I can tell you how it was on my 52 and I'm assuming a 48 could be the same. I didn't pull the drum and axle as an assy. because it weighs so much and I don't have a pet gorilla to handle the job. Un-screw the small slotted screws in the drum which hold it to the hub flange and the drum will come off. Then I pulled the axle to allow removal of the hub which blocks working on the brakes to some extent. The hub comes off after you remove the lock nuts which you will see after you pull the axle.
Dan
Remember your freedom - US Veterans provided it. 101st Screaming Eagles
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy jmh, yes you have to pull the axles, there should be two wheel bearing adjusting nuts with a locking plate in between them behind the axles, hope that helps. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 720 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 720 | I know I did a step by step on these, and as I recall someone else recenly posted something with more detail also. Anyway, if you have the integrated hub/drum like I do, and sounds like what 3B is describing, it's not real hard to take apart. First take off the hub cover and pull out the axle. Next, you should be able to see the top nut and locking tabs around the outer edge. Bend back the tabs and use a drift punch to remove the outer nut. Next you'll remove the locking plate, the inner nut, and the washer as seen here. After that it's just a matter of sliding the drum off. I have my wheels on in those photos because I didn't have access to powrfull enough tools so I pulled them off all at once to take in to be torn down. 1956 GMC 370 dump " 'Tater "1970 VW Volksrod "the Black Bomber" 2007 Chevy Avalanche 2020 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk, 2005 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI I dig all cars, old and new, whether they were hammered out of American iron, German steel, or Japanese tin cans. Being unable to appreciate them all is missing out on a world of great things. But thats just MY opinion! :P
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 79 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 79 | Thanks one and all.Pictures are worth a thousand words.I think now I will be able to remove my hubs.I did not know the hub and axle were splined. You learn something new everyday.These old bolts come with many suprises.
Thanks JMH | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 1,997 Big Bolt Forum Co-moderator | | Big Bolt Forum Co-moderator Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 1,997 | Yeah cool... Floating axle. Axle breaks, you still have rubber on the road. My first experience with those too. A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired. 1948 Chevy 2-Ton | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 79 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 79 | Its me again,
Dug into my rear hubs finally and all went well until I started to remove it.It wont come off.There is no ratchet to back the brake shoes off with.What now?
Thanks,
JMH | | | | | Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,038 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,038 | JMH, You need to back the brake shoes off and to do that you turn the brake adjusting nuts (counterclockwise if I remember correctly). There are two on each side, located just fore and aft of the brake cylinder on each side of where the brake line goes in. If the cylinders are not rusted or frozen, the shoes will back off and the hub should come free. There are no slots to access the cylinders on the rear drums, you have to use the adjusting nuts which are attached to a pinion that turns the cylinder cap. Good luck. Kent | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 173 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 173 | Mine were a real bear too. My wheel cylinders were froze and the adjusters wouldn't turn. The drum was so tight it would slide the wheels rather than turn them. All I can tell you is that with about three hours time and two 3 ft crowbars they will come off 1/64th at a time. Just don't break the drum or bend the backing plate. That will lead to a really bad day.
1947, 1950, & 1952 Chevrolet 1/2 ton 1952 GMC 450 series Cab Over Engine 1946 Chevrolet 2 Ton
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 79 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 79 | Thanks WF.It sure is nice to talk to someone that knows about this stuff.I turned them bolts and she came right off.I am sure Ill have more questions.
Thanks again, JMH | | |
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