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| | | | Joined: May 2008 Posts: 34 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2008 Posts: 34 | Having cab blasted today. What is the best primer to use as a temporary fix. I am going to do body work further down the road, but needing to cover. The floorboards are solid just pitted. I'm going to use por-15 them, but what about the cab metal. A cheap lacquer primer until the bodywork is done? Any help is appreciated.
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| | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 554 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 554 | I am the antithesis of a painting expert but I used epoxy primer. It seems to be most commonly recommended for what you are doing. It will seal and weatherproof your metal until you are ready for the next step.
Chuck | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | I'll second the epoxy route.
I've used a high build 'rattle can' primer and have had bleed through in a couple of places that got wet. (leaky garage!)
AFAIK Most primers are porous.
1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 946 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 946 | Epoxy Primer. You can use filler over it (after roughing it) and If you have to hammer out a dent, you can always spray more. It is by far the best way to go. If it will sit around for awhile before top coating, you will need to sand it for good adhesion.
If you plan on using POR-15, apply it directly to the metal, not on top of the epoxy. I did this (a recommendation from a local paint shop) and where I did not sand the epoxy enough, the POR-15 did not adhere very well. I won't be taking advice from that paint shop again! | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 305 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 305 | use self eching on the bare metal then scuff for body work do ur por 15 and while still tacky spray with self eching over the por 15 then it will take regural paint when ready. my brother does this for a living.this is his advise
ya I know a few rednecks.Thay all drive chevys to,
Proud member of the Old Dominion Stovebolt Society
AND A MARINE
trucks range from 1942 1/2 ton to 1965 fire engine
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 461 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 461 | Hillbilly has the best solution and it is what I did. Good luck with your project  Hank | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 305 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 305 | well how did i turn out and what did u do
Last edited by apart hillbilly; 04/04/2010 12:40 AM.
ya I know a few rednecks.Thay all drive chevys to,
Proud member of the Old Dominion Stovebolt Society
AND A MARINE
trucks range from 1942 1/2 ton to 1965 fire engine
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 190 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 190 | I use an etching primer when I know it will set and have to do work later. Cheaper and seals the metal. Then when all body work it done, a good sanding and sealing primer, followed by a base coat and top coat. Since most sealing primers have a time limit to when you need to apply the base coat. The etching primers don't need to be applied that heavy and leaves you with less sanding to keep the crisp lines. IMO | | |
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