Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
0 members (),
196
guests, and
1
robot. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,081 Posts1,056,078 Members48,434 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 105 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 105 | I know it's been discussed to death, But I haven't had much luck with the search....
'58 235 Rear main crank seal is leaking oil.
Question is do I need to drop the oil pan, or will I get enough slack in loosening the rear crank cap to sneak the new seal through?
Please tell me I don't need to take this oil pan off again....
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy Skidmarks, unfortunately I don't have good news for you, the only way to change the rear main seal that I know of is to remove at least the rear main bearing cap, if you're installing a rope type seal you may have to loosen the remaining main bearing caps. There is a synthetic seal available for that engine as well, Fel-Pro p/n BS13363, good luck. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 82 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 82 | Skidmarks,
Yep, the oil pan has to go. As 3B suggested you may need to loosen the remaining caps. The 58 rear mains were not machined for a neoprene seal, but if 3B has one, I wish I had known about it a bit earlier.
I just finished the same task, and put a rope seal back in. Loosened all caps to get enough clearance to pull the seal through, and you can do this without removing the oil pump screen.
Good luck,
Richard
58 3104
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | Another question on this - did you guys have to remove the tranny too? | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy waldo53, It would definately allow the crankshaft more range of movement if the tranny was pulled back for enough to clear the clutch, but the job should be able to be done without that. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 105 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 105 | The 58 mains were not manufactured for the Neoprene, but can you put them in place of the rope? Everything I read says convert to neoprene if you can.... | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 82 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 82 | Skidmarks,
I have heard tales of people getting the rope seal back in with the tranny in, but I am not sure how. I could not get enough movement on the crank to allow clearance to get the seal in.
Removed the transmission, and while you are at it, how's the clutch? Perfect time to tackle that job.
Have fun,
Richard
58 3104
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 105 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 105 | Actually, I have the engine in a bare chassis, I have the tranny out, and a new clutch kit in the box, ready to go in. I just need to get this seal replaced....
I don't want to put in a neoprene seal if it's not gonna last... Anyone?? rope or neoprene on a 58? | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 82 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 82 | Skidmarks,
According to the Shop Manual, the 58 block was not machined to accept a neoprene seal; that started in the 1959 blocks. I put a rope seal back in, and have been happy with the results.
Neoprene is usually preferable, but if your block is not machined for it, it would likely leak like a sieve. Check the manufacture date on the block.
3B, do you have any additional info on that Fel-Pro item?
Richard
58 3104
| | |
|
|
