The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Splitting 1949 Chevy hood.

I split my hood apart to fix rust that was in the seams. Now the rust is fixed what kind of tool do I need to install the new rivets. They are not standard pop rivets, I found the correct rivets at the local hardware store. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas.

Most likely at the factory they used an air rivet gun. They pull the rivets together a 100x more then a hand held one..joe

A hand rivet will probably not be real tight and cause a rattle or two or three or four. How about a small weld?

FYI, I pop-riveted mine back together with a hand riveter and 3/16"(I think) aluminum rivets. It seems to be as solid as original and I have seen no problems yet. I did put a couple of bolts in place of the rivets where I couldn't get the riveter to go.

I will probably end up pop riveting it back together. The factory rivets are very strange I think they are similar to the style used on brake shoes. I would love to find a tool to use that will fit in the tight area I'm working in. Oh well thanks for the advise guys.

Mine is coming off for the same reason (rust) in the next two weeks. I plan on putting a strip of anti squeak between and bolt it back together, unless someone here has a better way.

I think bolts are the way to go unless you have a commercial rivet gun. Plus you will be the only one to know and you wont have to worry about this hood going goofy on you. I've had no such good luck with pop rivets.

I take it you ain't afeared of electolysis. Probably more of a wet climate problem

Yep, it's pretty dry here in Colorado, even dryer in my garage.

A hand rivet gun, 3/16 S/S rivets would do the trick, electric or air riveter, same rivets would be better, add a few tack welds and call it a day. FriedgreenTmater I here you on the dry air. I lived down near T or C, NM for a while. Miss it sometimes, like NOW

That's a good idea I think I will use stainless. Thanks guys.

My hood needs some attention too. Not a rust issue, it just leaks into the engine bay when it rains. Thought about running a bead of sealer under the stainless trim, or having it welded up solid & smoothed.

I'd like to see a picture of that hand rivet gun that can pull 3/16 stainless steel rivets.

I don't want to shake hands with the guy who can pop them with a hand riveter.

There was no need for an anti-squeak from the factory so I don’t see why you would need one now. The hood unit is quite ridged if it’s properly put together.
The rivets are truss head tubular rivet available from places like Hanson rivet or Jay-Cee. When they are properly clinched with a hand rivet squeezer they are just as tight as they would have been from the factory. These often can be rented or bought cheaper from the Homebuilt aircraft supply house.
I’m not sure there is any reason to split my hood but the same tooling and source for rivets would apply to the grill. Rather than use machine screws or pop rivets to reassemble my grill these are the tools and fasteners that I will use to reassemble mine.
http://www.hansonrivet.com/w02.htm
http://www.hansonrivet.com/w82a.htm
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Good post Denny!

Denny provided good info based on my research and talking to some friends in the fabrication biz.

Actualy took one the hood halves over to my friends shop to see if his hand squeezer (like the one Denny linked above) would fit inside the hood because of the reduced space near the front. It appears that area is going to be a touch tight. Might have to go with some stainless bolt bits there.

My friend stated you can bend the lower handle on the squeezer for more clearance but I'd have to buy my own as he wasn't going to allow that with his.

Denny- Do you have any documentation on the type of rivet used on the hood? I ask as the guy that owns the truck I'm putting together (late '49 3100) states they were of the solid variety. Not they style you mentioned.

-Eric

Do not use aluminum rivets for anything. They will loosen up over time. Steel or stainless steel rivets can be pulled with a hand riveter but it will wear you out if they're over 1/8". It's much easier if you can come up with an air riveter. The clinching force of the rivet is determined by the break strength of the pin so it doesn't matter what tool you pull it with.

Jeff