The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine swap. 1941

My engine has been replaced with a 1956 engine.
I have found a running 1941 engine complete with transmission to put back in it. Of course I will freashen it up before the swap. I have some questions. 1. I have seen in pictures, 1941 engines with dual carbs. Was this an option? 2. My truck has a dual choke cable could it have had dual carbs? 2a. Or is that extra cable for throttle control? 3. The transmission in the truck looks like a freash re-man. Will it bolt to the 1941 engine? James

1. I have seen in pictures, 1941 engines with dual carbs. Was this an option?
* No. it was an after-purchase add-on. Not a difficult undertaking (but costs $$).

2. My truck has a dual choke cable could it have had dual carbs?
2a. Or is that extra cable for throttle control?
* One for Choke; one for throttle. Most people put the choke on one carb and the throttle on the linkage betwen the carbs.

3. The transmission in the truck looks like a fresh re-man. Will it bolt to the 1941 engine?
* You should be able to use your transmission/clutch housing.

If I'm wrong, we will hear about it.

What is your thought about my idea to put back the orig. engine--- well the same year engine anyway. Waist of time and money or a + for the future value of the truck?

If you're in it for the money...well, very few ever get out what they put in. Might as well build it the way you want it and if that means factory stock, then go with the proper motor. But I don't think that dual carbs would go very well with the factory stock look....unless you were to build a period correct hot rod. Then your target marked would decrease somewhat...if not radically.

I just build what appeals to me. I'm not in it with an eye toward future value. I know some guys make a living out of restorations but that's not for me. So, again, I'd suggest doing what makes ya happy.

One last thought: I'd much rather have a full-pressure motor than not. Which is why I've decided that if I ever have to tear into the motor in my Model A (stock 4-banger at the moment) I'll either convert it to full pressure oiling with insert bearings...or I'll drop a flathead V8 into it. But I could change my mind.

Ithink maybe I have misled you, my question about the carbs. was just that. I didn't know if the truck came with 2 carb.s or not. I am cool with 1 carb. Hell that is just one less thing to worry about.
But now I am leaning toward not changing out the engine cause you are the second one to say somthing about poor oiling of the 41 engine. Hell maybe I'll buy it anyway $250.00 for a complete running engine and transmission is a good deal.

Toyvo:

Your truck, I'm betting, came with a single Carter W-1 Carburetor. The W-1 is a single barrel, cast iron behemoth that is easy to work on and works very well.

If your dash knobs are stock, there will be a C on one and a T on the other. (I think that the Choke is on the right-hand side) Aside from the fact that they are labeled differently, they're pretty much exactly indentical.

Some time in past forty-two years, the choke knob got snapped off in mine, and the throttle was pressed into use as a choke.

A period correct engine is great if you are taking it back to "Bone Stock" and want to be as accurate as possible -- or are just that anal retentive. It's not a waste of time if that is your goal. If you ever DO sell it, a "Numbers Matching" rig can demand a slightly higher price than one that isn't.

I am running a 1949 216 from a car in mine. It's what it came with, and it had just been rebuilt about 200 miles before it was parked. It's staying because I don't care to have it "bone stock", I just want it to be "mostly stock". It's the same basic engine as what was in there originally, and that's close enough for me.

The Full Pressure 235 is a good engine, and if you don't care about the engine being period correct, I'd leave it.

Buy the 216 and keep it as backup, though. It never hurts to have a spare.

Went to look at the engine today. He went up on the price now $350.00 (wrecken he recognized the buyer. A LOCAL DOCTOR) LOL !
The numbers match for a 1941. AA1101029 (the ones look like I not 1 on the engine.) If I looked up my info correctly engine build 29th engine built in 1941. But not for certain.
The doctor wants to buy it. So I guess I gotta get my old guy machinest to do some babbit work.
I have never seen it done. This could be cool.

Looked up my old machinest guy today. He informes me of a new design rod that takes the place of the old babbit rod and uses insert bearings. Also he tells me of aluminum pistons that can be installed along with a bore job that makes the old 216 into a 235. Some special head work to allow it to run on unleaded fuel and we are set. He also warned me of trying to drive the 216 engine a 70 mph, this is a no no. He said that the oil pressure is at best 20 psi. and had only dip oiling for the main bearings.

Well, if you are talking about an original style 216, the oil pressure at speed will be 14 lbs and 0 to 7 at idle.

I think the 41 had the rod sprayers which helped out some by spraying oil into the dippers.

Hotrodders of that era preferred the splash engines because they were more reliable. Using aluminum pistons will allow a lot more engine rpm without hurting the babbett. I conversed with a fellow who owns a babbetted 39 sedan & regularly drives long distances on the interstate at 70+ simply because he replaced the stock pistons with aluminum. I don't recall if he had the Master or Master Deluxe. The Master Deluxe has a lower rear end ratio. If you put in aluminum pistons and inserts you will have NO problems. Just make sure the squirters are aligned. That's what keeps your rod bearings alive at speed.

Thanks Tiny, that was just the assurance I needed. I've made a deal with the owner of the 216. He is gonna accept payment of $350.00 for the running 216 and my 235 as a core. He will also allow me to use the running 235 untill we are finished with the 216. Now the truck can be out there running untill the day of the transplant.