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| | | Forums66 Topics128,118 Posts1,056,304 Members48,439 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 67 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 67 | Has anyone rebuilt wheel cylinders for a 41 G506? The Vehicles of victory fellow has rebuild kits and offers new/rebuilt wheel cylinders. Do you guys think I would be ok with a rebuild kit? Anyone have any experience, advice to offer?
Just some background: I am planning on adding a power booster w/dual master and have the shoes relined at the local truck repair shop. However, I'm looking close to $800 by the time I buy new wheel cylinders $85 ea,spring kit, adjusters and have the shoes relined. Any ideas to cut cost?
1937 Chevy (converted to 4x4) 1942 Chevy G506 1.5 ton 4x4 1958 Mack B model (on Chevy 1 ton 4x4 frame) 1969 Dodge Charger 1987 K30 Crewcab
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 113 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 113 | Truth be told I've never done a 41 G506, but I've done a bunch of other types and sizes of wheel cylinders. I would disassemble the wheel cylinders. Remove from backing plate, use air pressure to blow out the pucks. I like to wrap them in a rag to prevent parts and old fluid form flying. Sometimes if I get nervous I blow em out in a gallon can. More aggressive means may be necessary. If the bores are in good shape and not pitted, I'd rebuild them. If not, replace them. I don't know the quality of the new ones. Thing is these are parts you are really going to depend on, so it's your call. Have fun............ | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 584 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 584 | I second the above. Essentially, your life as well as those around you are at stake...SO,
If the bores are fine and there isn't any pitting that you can't remove with really fine sanding, then use them.
If pitting exists, suffer the expense and buy the complete cylinders. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | If these are the Huck style brakes, I do have a caution. I put new ones on the front and the threads failed on one of the cylinders. The threads were not as heaviy as the originals and they had a very loose fit. I had the rears sleeved and rebuilt. Sometimes the adjuster tabs are broken. Also if you end up driving the insides out, use something that rests on the outside of the pistons. It is really easy to break through the center of them. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 67 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 67 | I 'm not sure what "Huck Style" brakes are - But thanks for the advice.
I think I'll get it apart and see what I've got. Anyone have a web address details/diagram?
1937 Chevy (converted to 4x4) 1942 Chevy G506 1.5 ton 4x4 1958 Mack B model (on Chevy 1 ton 4x4 frame) 1969 Dodge Charger 1987 K30 Crewcab
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 469 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 469 | If the pistons are stuck inside the cylinder they can be safely removed with hydraulic pressure from a greese gun. The greese gun method will not harm the pistons or the spring inside. | | |
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