The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Rings stuck?

i have a 55 235 that supposedly was rebuilt at one time. It does look clean under the valve cover, but it has been sitting a long time. The exhaust/intake is off of it. When i turn the crank there is very little sound of air pushing out of the ports. I have another 59 235 that I heard run but smoked, and you can hear the air pushing out when turning the crank by hand. Question is are the rings stuck on the 55? Or maybe the engine was not rebuilt and is worn out? I squirted some trans. fluid in the spark plug holes and letting it set for a few days. Hoping if the rings are stuck this will heip. Any sugguetions? Thanks.

Put the manifolds on fire it up and see what happens. If you do have rings that ar'nt stuck to bad they will loosen up and act right.

Run a compression or a cylinder leak down test,
Scott

The air you heard blowing into the manifold was probably leaking valves. Either burned or sticking. If you don't hear anything in the manifold, that is a good sign. After you're done with the ATF, spin the engine a few times with the spark plugs out. I would suggest doing the same thing with Marvel Mystery oil. I like the way it dissolves carbon. Chances are the 55 is a pretty good engine.

both engines are sitting on the floor. They both have the intake and exhaust manifolds off. I took the plugs out of the 55 and turned the crank with my finger over one of the plug holes. I didn't feel much pressure or suction, but I'm only turning it by hand.

HI Dexter

I prefer a non destructive approach and I would try this has it has worked for me.

Play safe and get an engine stand or drop the engine in the vehicle or make one from the front section of an old section of frame....

bolt the engine solid....install the flywheel and starter.....drain the old oil... refill with cheapest stuff you can find.

Make sure if the engine has an external oil filter that it is connected and canister filled with oil'

Optional you may wish to install a cheap after market mechanical oil pressure guage.

remove the dizzy.... find your oldest mid size flat blade screwdriver from the tool box.... smash off the plastic handle.... insert screwdriver shaft in a 3/8 electric drill..... insert screwdriver flat blade in hole of dizzy until engaged in the oil pump tang.

turn drill on..... let it run for a minute...if your valve cover is off you will see oil running up on the valve head ... if the srews for the coil on the side of the head are out.... you will have a mess as they leak out.... find screws... insert in holes....

if your mechanical guage is properly connected you should be getting a oil pressure reading....

After a minute of using the drill to prime the oil galleys.....

.. make sure plugs are removed....pour in some Marvel oil or even plain engine oil... about 2 table spoon per cyl..... don't go hog on the oil or you will be wearing it.

Apply booster cable to the starter and spin engine..... and watch out for oil being spit out the plug holes if over filled.

with all the openings your engine will be sucking and hissing like its having an Enphazyma attack....

If you have a friend... have him spin the drill while the engine is turning..... watch the fan blade without plugs it can spin quite fast.

don't run your starter until it cooks... when warm to the touch... take a break... have a beer.

Now you can do a compression test and you can also see what kind of oil pressure you are getting.....

On a rebuilt engine...261.... I got 42 pounds of pressure with a HD drill.... if you get anything near 20 psi you may be doing very good....

It will cost you oil, one filter, one gauge and you will not risk breaking anything.

That should keep you buzzy for one Saturday. Share with us you findings.

Bob C.

Thanks for the idea. It looks like the trans. fluid has helped some. I put the plugs back in and turned the crank. I now have a lot of resistance and can hear some air coming out of the exhaust. I'm hoping that this has freed up the rings. Oil is pumping up to the top of the push rods and the valves seem to be moving OK. When I get the 216 pulled, I will set this engine in and try to run a compression check before completely installing it.