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I am in the process of rebuilding my '49 Chevy 3600 3/4-ton pick-up truck. I have retained the old style "huck" drum brakes and replaced all of the wheel cylinders. I have installed new stainless steel brake lines throughout. I was looking for an aftermarket master cylinder to replace the original master cylinder, but have not found one with an 1-1/8" bore. I was planning to stick with manual brakes for now unless there is a good power brake master cylinder setup that will mount in the apporoximate same location below the floor. I do not want a firewall-mounted unit. Any suggestions?
Thanks! Dan M. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 2,201 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 2,201 | Rockauto claims to have them in 1 1/4" bore. Are you sure of the bore diam.? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Napa list it as 1 1/4 in. bore. Part #9220 They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 47 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 47 | My mistake... 1-1/4" bore is correct. Is there a master cylinder available other than the stock unit? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | Why do you want something other than the stock unit?
There is a bracket available to convert to a dual master, and lots of possible masters that can be used with that bracket.
But on an otherwise stock system why do you want to change the master?
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 47 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 47 | Hi -
The only real reason I have for a different master cylinder is to go with a more modern split chamber master cylinder. However, with stainless steel brake lines, I am not as concerned about a brake failure. Also, I have seen the brackets for a different master cylinder, but I understand they are for the 1/2-ton trucks only, not 3/4-ton.
Thanks! Dan M. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 |
~Jim
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 65 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 65 | I put the power break cylinder kit from CPP on my 3/4 Ton. I did have to slightly modify a brace that came with it so I could bolt it to the frame, but other than that, it worked great! My engine doesn't pull that much vacuum, but it's still easier to stop than manuals were. Hope that helps. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 65 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 65 | I'm no brake expert, but most of the brake failures I've experienced came at the MC, slaves, or the flexible lines, not the hard brake lines. Dual cylinders are a smart upgrade IMO. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | Stainless lines won't prevent brake failure alone. Lotsa other things can go bad A smaller dia. master bore will make braking easier if you don't have the power unit If you do, the larger dia. works better.
Last edited by gazim; 12/03/2009 2:28 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 47 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 47 | Thanks Guys!
Now I just need some suggestions on brands and part numbers from reputable companies. I'm looking for either a dual chamber, manual only master cyliner or a vacuum-assist power brake master cylinder set-up.
Thanks, Dan M. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | You're looking to put this on a 3/4-ton pickup. I'd look first at 3/4-ton GM pickups in that short range of years where dual master was required but before disk brakes were standard.
That is going to be '67 or '68 through '70.
When I did my swap I used a master designed for power brakes but did not use a power booster. It has worked out just fine, though I do understand there are some design differences between power and non-power. I was trying to stay with a specific year and model of car in order to match my other brake parts, and my chosen car was not available with out power brakes.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | Mine came from speedway, Aluminum dual 1"bore and I am well pleased. 910-31422 $84.00 They have the stock one for about $35 | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 47 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 47 | Thanks! That master cylinder looks like it will work well. Do you know if this will bolt on to the stock 3/4-ton frame bracket?
Thanks Again, Dan M. | | |
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