The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop what oil filter is this?

Howdy Folks.

This pic is from my '59 3600. I've tracked the oil leak down to the filter, but comparing it to some other pics, it doesn't look anything like the AC/Fram filters.

Oil Filter

From the line sizes, I started thinking it had been converted to a full flow system, but then I noticed these.

Pic #1
Pic #2

They look like captain bars to me and the head casting number matched a 261.

The info I read on Inliner's made it sound like this engine wasn't sold in the States during that time on this model. Is it safe to assume to that this is not the truck's orignal motor?

More importantly, anybody see a problem with using the standard remote mount filter base from Summitt without worrying about starving the bearings for oil?


Ben

Ben
That is Definitely a 261 oil filter.
Chances are the engine is a 261 also.
Same as the one that came on my 52 3800.
99% sure the 261 wasn,t offered in 59 as an option in the 3600.
Run the serial # off the engine to find out the year.
regards,
Steve Sr.

Lots of aftermarket oil filter assemblies in the 50's and 60's you can view an excellent article on original or dealer installed set-ups here: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engines/oil%20filters/index.html

Is that a pair of captians bars lurking above the starter telling you it's a 261?

It is, as indicated by Steve Sr, a full-flow oil-filter canister/system that was only used on 1958-1962 Chevrolet truck 261 engines. The hose ends (and ports in the head) are 1/2" NPT.

If you want to confirm this, find and post the various codes from the block and head.

Tim

I found that oil filter article in my searches, but didn't see my oil filter included in it.

Took a few more pics.

Block casting code -- 3769925
Block casting code -- 3836850
Engine serial number -- ??

Not sure if it means it's stolen, but it doesn't look to me like there ever was a number there. The machining marks look consistant across the face of that ledge. Know of any other places to check?

Regardless, I'm feeling confident enough to order a remote mount base. Bye-bye nasty oil leak.


Ben

Be sure to use a filter that has internal pressure releif. Use a NAPA Gold or Ford oil filter. Buy a remote with the proper threaded nipple for whichever filter you chose. Summit sells nice ones for about $25 and the filters too.I use Motocraft FL-1A.

The Tech-Tip on oil filters would not have your filter in it because the article is about by-pass oil filters.

As you most likely have assured yourself by now, you have 58-63 261. These engines had a full-flow oil filter system (just like the one in your photos).

The lack of an engine serial number is probably because your engine is a factory replacement engine - the installer was left to put the original engine's code on the block, in case that code was used as the VIN/Title/Registration code.

Several people have posted photos of remote filter assemblies used with 58-63 261 engines. Do you want people to post links?

If you are switching to a remote filter only because of leaks in your filter assembly, where are the leaks? If the leak is at the top of the canister, I think that replacement filter-cartridges come with a new o-ring.

That original filter set-up is impressive-looking, effective, and a great conversation piece (especially with GMC engine owners who like to slag Chevy 6s, even though all GMC 6s had by-pass filters).

Tim

So the factory replacement engines didn't have an unique serial number? So if the installer had transfered it to the new engine, then I could have had a 261 with a 235 S/N. Kind of glad it didn't happen becasue it's been confusing enough.

I've seen several pics of the remote mountings and I'm feeling confident enough that I'll figure out a way to make it work. No dual carb or dual exhaust to route around (yet).

The leak is coming out of the joint between the can and the head. I haven't seen it do it, but it looks like it burps a little out and then through some combination of heat and pressure, it seals it up well enough to not be a constant leak at idle. I haven't noticed any change in the level and it doesn't take much oil to make mess.

Looking for a replacement filter for this can is really what started this thread. Though my search hasn't been exhaustive, I haven't seen anything in the way of replacement part numbers. I have heard some comments about the leaks that come from the difficulty of getting that seal positioned correctly. I haven't really tore into it yet since I don't have any replacement parts to keep it running.

It is impressive... I guess I'm going to have to think about the pros/cons of using the old filter. Only thing really pushing me towards the remote filter is just simplicity. I can put it where it will be easier to contain the mess when I change the oil and commonality with the Dakota filter would be nice.

I'm not going to get worked up about what the GMC guys will say. It's not like I'm really listening to anybody who slags off someone else's truck anyway. Well, maybe unless they're slagging a Ford.


Thanks,

Ben

Supposedly, the 58-63 261 canister uses NAPA filter #1141
I do not know if that comes with the 0-ring.

The original filter element for it would be a PF141 in an AC. It's still readily available, as it was used up to '68 on V8s with the canister filter. I beleive there's some Ag applications, too (Oliver, I think). The Fram CH200PL also fits this filter, and is what I use in mine. I get them from Farm & Fleet for about $4 apeice.
Both filters do come with a new gasket, which should be replaced every time the element is changed.

Be sure to get the old gasket out, and check that there isn't a second one down in the groove. I have seen several trucks with double gaskets come in for service, and it is a sure recipe for a leak. You should be able to get a small pick or awl into the groove to feel for(and/or remove) a second gasket. Most of the time you will need a pick just to get the one out.

Hi.

I have the identical oil filter canister setup on my 261 stovebolt that came out of a '59 Chevy Viking 2-ton truck. The question still remains, is this a factory-installed AC oil filter or an after-market oil filter?

Thanks!
Dan M.
'49 Chevy 3600 3/4-Ton

It is factory. The late 261s used a full flow filtration system, which used that style canister. If it were removed, there needs to be a jumper line added across the ports so the engine will not be starved for oil.

The question has been answered.

"These engines had a full-flow oil filter system (just like the ones in your photos)."

Just a note of caution, this engine 'could' have full flow filtering ONLY if that pin is pushed into the block (see the pin in your pic#2), not pushed in it's only a bypass filter. With the pin pushed in just over half an inch, all oil then is directed out through the filter and back to the main galley. If you have a motor with the pin 'IN' then yes you'll need a filter or a hose/pipe in it's place.