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#579279 10/01/2009 12:01 AM
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 48
K
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
K Offline
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 48
Hello all. I am currently trying to align the fenders, hood and grille on my 51 1 ton. What an act of congress this is! I have read the process of aligning all these things in the shop manual and read some posts here on stovebolt, and they all say at some point to shim the radiator support. Ok sounds easy enough. I shim to what seems to make things work and that is by adding a 1.5" shim. Seems like to much since I needed to get longer bolts to put it back together. The original shim in there was about 1/4". I am using new fiberglass fenders which I had to drill the holes for and this is their first fitting on the truck. So my question is how much shim is acceptable and at what point is it too much and I must be doing something wrong. Any advice much appreciated.

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,703
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,703
I used a pc. of thick belting from work for mine it was roughly 3/8" wich compressed to 1/4" when snugged down, an I had no issues alighning the rest of the sheet metal.
Tim


1952 Chevy Shortbed

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If It Aint Broke Fix It Till It Is!
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
The idea is to get things to where you are satisfied. If it takes more shims than before, don't worry about it.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 649
Y
'Bolter
'Bolter
Y Offline
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 649
Have you ruled out the frame? Have you checked it to see if it's bent/twisted? The glass fenders may need to be made to fit. How about the radiator support itself, not bent? I would think you could hang all the original parts, inner aprons, support and rods, and see if you need to shim more than necessary. If you "shim" it to high hows the hood going to fit? Then to top it off the grille can be a bearcat! Last bit of advise "loose" fit all parts and I'd start with the hood on first. Oh and leave the hood latch off until your close.

Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 48
K
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
K Offline
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 48
The frame sits level and is not twisted. Same with the radiator support. The way I have it now the hood fits and closes the best I have been able to get it. I think what I am going to try next is to enlarge the holes on the glass fenders to give me some wiggle room. I am going to take it all apart and try it over again making sure everything is loose. Hopefully it goes better this time.

Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,074
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,074
The radiator support on my 53 had some of the spot welds broken causing it to sort of cave in a bit. Had to take it all appart and re-weld.


It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!
1946 1/2-Ton Chevy
1953 Chevy 3/4-ton Factory Stakebed

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