The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Drag Link Upgrade?

Has anyone successfully upgraded a 47-50 drag link to the later style without the ball studs? I got my steering all torn down and would like to fix this while it's still apart. Thanks, Bob

I did it and I did it by using two new style tie rod ends and a tie rod. Basically I made a short tie rod to use as my drag link. It works great and it's adjustable in order to properly line up the steering wheel.

Joe

Thanks Joe. How did you rethread the shorter tie rod? Looks awfully hard to thread with common handyman type Tap & die set. Machine shop? Thanks again.

I,m interested in the same setup on my 55-2. I think he means to cut down a tie rod & weld it back together & than you have the right threads on each end. I think i,m going to try it. I have a freind that is a proffessional welder/ fabricator. If its done right it should work. It,s not so much getting the steering wheel on center. Aguy can remove the wheel & put it on to line up, but I want to get the steering gear to work on the high spot.

Good point Wrenchbender Ret. That's what I was really refering to when I said "center the steering wheel". I needs to be centered on that "high spot" so the truck will go down the road straight and hold the road with no shimmy or wobble. The adjustable drag link will give you the ability to get that wheel perfectly centered.

I wrote Shipwright an email and told him that I had threaded a short tie rod after cutting the right hand thread end off, but could not find the exact size die. It appears to be a 13/16" die and when searching could not come up with one. Finally, I used a 3/4" die and that will work. The other idea, as you stated, would be to cut both threaded ends off of a tie rod and weld them back together at the desired length. That way, of course, you get the exact threading you need.

In either case, the adjustable tie rod style drag link with tie rod style ends will add just that much more controlability to the vehicle and I think you will find it to drive significantly better.

Joe

''Has anyone successfully upgraded a 47-50 drag link to the later style without the ball studs?''

yes
see:
http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=22;t=003275;p=1#000000

Finally got the job done and wow, what a difference. I upgraded the tie rod ends and made my own adjustable drag link per Jim's (Caroline'sTruck) part #'s from NAPA. Thanks for all the help guys. I didn't know how badly the front end parts were worn till I got it all apart. All the ball studs were egg shaped and had gouges in the necks from overtightening the end caps. I also installed a sway bar. This upgrade is awesome. No more lean in turns. They say not to install the sway bar on lowered trucks but it works well when you just install shorter bolts in the end links. I took a ride this morning and it was an absolute pleasure to drive. NO MORE SHIMMY! I love it. I got new king pins for it, but it drives so nice I don't think it needs em.

v ~ glad to hear of your success.

my pins were so bad (.025'' play) i had to redo them.

what/ where did your sway come from...?... that's next for me.

Got the sway bar from Chevy Duty. The instructions were a little weak but I got it figured out. Let me know if I can help at all. Thanks again, Bob

I,m glad it worked for rest of you. I found out it won,t work on the 55-2 up. It uses different ends for the drag link than the tie rods.

these do also WB-R.
That's why you will have to have a Chevy taper cut into the steering and pittman arms that are different from the stock 'tie rod cross or long bar' ends. You may have to have the holes welded up (pittman & steering arm) after you remove the ball ends (if that is what you have as I'm not that familiar w/ 55/2) a bit to redrill them for the new taper cuts. The new chevy tapers will match the new tie rod ends (see link for part #'s) and provide a snug fit.

see:
http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=22;t=003275;p=1#000000