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Help !

Trying to make my truck work "with the parts on hand".

Situation: '54 Chevy 3600 PU, 3 sp column...open driveshaft all the way.

Problem: rear tranny bushing and driveshaft yoke are wiped-out. Parts are hard to come by.

Proposed solution:

I have a good Warner T-89 three-speed from a friend's '49 3600...only problem is the rear of the tranny is set-up for enclosed driveshaft...

Can I mate the front half of the '49 driveshaft to the rear half of the '54 driveshaft, making the transition at the carrier bearing ?

Am I asking for more trouble ?

Short answer is yes if ALL you want to do is drive around your BACKYARD. I have done this on my 49 3100
until I can figure out what I want to use as a drive train. I would NOT drive it on the highway.
However, there may be someone who has more experience with drive shafts.

I think I have what you are looking for. My 3106 came with a drivetrain from a 3/4 ton. The front half of the driveshaft is enclosed, supported at the rear by the hanger bearing. At that point it becomes an open driveshaft. Want pics??

'49,

Heck, I can't drive it on the highway NOW...LOL...

Any speed above 40 MPH, the vibration will shake the truck apart.

Dad had the original yoke neck machined and a new bushing installed by a local machinist, but when he put it back together, he didn't pre-lube the bushing, and it wiped-out again on its first trip...

This appears to be a '54-only set-up, as the later trannies have a slip-joint on the rear ?

I am not familiar with the 3600 series, so use as much or as little of this suggestion as you can stomach. What I did was cut the torque tube just before the pumpkin. Then took the drive shaft out and slid it INSIDE the "cut" drive shaft that connected to my "open driveshaft" rear end. This allowed me to telescope the two different shafts until I got the "right" length. After this was accomplished, I cut the torque tube (at the transmission side) where it just starts to "bell out". This get you the part of the torque tube that supports the closed drive shaft at the transmission and the busshing. You will also need the metal housing the "holds" this part and is bolted to the transmission and the crossmember and test fit it again.Since the "closed" drive shaft was smaller than the "open" drive shaft, I just used 8" pieces of pipe and spacer metal to get a tight slip fit (top and bottom) and then welded it all up. Since, I am not as good a welder as I should be, I then drilled and tapped for bolts to go through the driveshafts & spacer material. I wouldn't even THINK of going 20 MPH or pull stumps. Good Luck!!

Your solution sounds exactly like my 49 3/4. No reason it shouldn't work. Worse comes to worst, grab the entire 49 driveshaft set from your buddy and use it back to the rear.