The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Por 15 application/prep

I bought the Por 15 six pack (small cans), and I'm in the process of wirebrushing/grinding/sanding all the rust I can off my frame. As I get the layer of surface rust off, there is a pretty tough black layer on there before I get to shiny steel. I don't think the guy who owned it before me did anything to the frame. Is this part of the oxidation of the metal? Or is it more likely to be a coat of a Por15 type coating?
Also, I didn't pay for the Metal Ready prep stuff, am I still going to get good results just applying the Por 15 to the metal surface?

I sandblasted my fenders then used the POR-15 without any Metal Ready, just cleaned them real well with PRE or another grease/silicone remover. The POR just seemed to soak into the metal, really good stuff. I did find that the second coat dragged a little due to surface tension. Stuff is hard as nails.

Good Luck.

Shiny metal with no metal ready + POR 15 came off for me in big sheets. POR = paint over rust. It needs rust to adhere, this has been what I've found. And it will chalk (even on a frame, so it needs to be topcoated. Read and follow all diretions on the can.

Por-15 Website

Cleaners are first then scroll a little bit further down and there is about ten pages worth of reading from the experts.

blasted my entire chassis.... applied por15 and it is stuck and hard as nails. I had to grind some off the chassis to weld my power steering box bracket on and cutting it with the 4 1/2" grinder you could tell it was not wanting to come off.
I personally have never had a problem with the por15 going on a blasted chassis... and a couple of my friends have not either.

Thanks for that Tip Alvin.
The boy has his donor frame for his jeep ready to haul to the blaster as soon as his order of POR15 arrives.
It is currently on B.O. ???
But should ship this week coming.
He will like reading your post.
Thanks again.
Tim
P.S. we have him set up "outside for ventilation" under a canopy attached to the shed and some saw horses to place the frame on when he paints it with a brush, other than rubber gloves and long sleeves , any tips for application?

POR 15 is great stuff but you really need to follow directions for best results. Use the marine clean, metal ready and then the POR 15. Good Luck

Mar-K has a few comments on the por15 and top coat in this forum under Bed Questions. But, even as they say, its best to follow the manufacturers instructions.

Tim, the cheap throw away brushes will "shed" a bristle here and there but presented no big problem. I have one here and there on my chassis but I left them for "character" and to also watch and see what happens!
This stuff will dry or skim over pretty fast. So, don't pour a lot out of the can at one time. Keep the can covered really good. One stovebolter suggested drilling a small hole in the top and then just sticking some duct tape over it to keep it from drying out.... pour a little as you need it.
Don't worry Tim, you'll learn fast!!

I sprayed my 50 frame after getting it back from the sandblaster. I've used a lot of POR 15 over the past few years. Does a good job with the brush, but also sprays great. After blasting,the metal has a grainy surface which will give the paint purchase, or something to grab to. Takes about 1 1/2 qt. to get a good coat on a frame. Clean your spray gun with laquer thinner, but dont wait long. If it sets up, may as well throw it away. Took 2 saw horses out in the vacant lot next to my shop to set the frame on. Be careful with overspray. The stuff won't come off once its set. I always punch a hole in the top of the can, and another one on the side at the top. Put a 3/8 coarse thread sheet metal screw in the holes after pouring out what you want, and keep it in the frig. Stuff will keep a long time if you seal it back quickly. This stuff sets up not by air, but by moisture. The higher the humidity, the faster the stuff cures. I learned all these tidbits from a POR 15 factory rep. that I knew. This stuff really works. Just be very careful with it cause if it gets on something it wont come off. Even your hands. I always wear latex gloves. Good luck Bob

If you don't want your paint, or hardener to set up in the can after opening, you can take your mig welder and use it to put in the 75/25 gas. It is heaver than air so it will chase the air out of the can, then put the lid, cap back on.

..... and please, wear some type mask. This stuff will coat your lungs if inhaled and you know what that will do.

correction
A REALLY REALLY GOOD MASK

Don't be too terrified about getting it on your hands. It will come off with thinner if it is NOT dried. If it does dry it will only take 2-3 days to wear off.