The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop What could be wrong?

Just got the ol' 58 kicken again after a 15 year nap.

I completely flushed & scrubbed the tank, lines etc, replaced the fuel pump & rebuilt the carb.

The previous owner installed a new starter, points, condenser, coil, cap & rotor. The old wires are still there though.

I got it running almost immediately & found a pile of leaks from cracked fittings or bad oil seal on the filter etc.

Once i fixed those I've noticed something.

The truck will not start w/o the choke completely pulled out.

The truck will not run for more than 30 seconds or so.

It will die if I step on the gas pedal.

??

I expect it is the carb - & I know very little about these - I'm not above just buying a brand new one just to avoid monkeying with something I don't know.

http://i29.tinypic.com/1zvbz9e.jpg

Could it be a stuck float or something simple before I junk it & buy another?

Go ahead and take the carb apart. They are easy to work on and you will be glad you did it once its running again. Look up Carbking on this site, he sells the best kits out there and is more then willing to help you through it.

I am suprized its running at all if you didn't touch the carb yet!

Joe

Thanks Joe - No- I rebuilt the carb myself - which is why I think it is the problem - I've never done a carb before & have no idea if it is correct.


How many turns out should the main jet be?

Most carbs don't have an adjustable main jet. Is your carb a Zenith? It helps to let people know what you are working on. At least you did include a year. Some people don't even offer that much info.

You are better off fixing the carb you have rather then getting a reman. If it has 4 screws holding the air horn on it is a Roch. model B. With the engine not running look down the throat of the carb & move the throttle from the closed position. You should see a squirt of gas going into the throat each time you work the throttle. If not your accel. pump is not working. Make sure the plunger is soft & pliable. If it's leather it's a good idea to soak it for awhile in oil. The float level may be set too low or you might have a vacuum leak. The mixture adjustment screw adjusts the idle mixture. With the engine idling slowly turn the screw in till the engine starts to slow down. Then back it out till it speeds up, usually about a half turn.
If you should go with the rebuilt/reman route do not turn in your old carb till the job is done & you are satisfied. About 50 per cent aren't any good.

could it be a big old vacuum leak? down at the bottom in your picture it looks like the base has a healthy chunk knocked out of it.

I'll go check the pump now - the 'chunk' on the picture is a sticker of some sort - it is a rochester. I installed a new leather thingy when I rebuilt the carb - it came with the kit. I didn't however soak it at all. I didn't know I was supposed to.

I'll give it a look & see what its doing.

OK - just took a look - no squirt when I pull the throttle.

How exactly do I fix this? Just soak the pump in oil?

where would I buy a new carb? not a rebuilt one, but a new one?

Sometimes they show up on eBay, but I'd try Jim Carter. But, call as thay aren't in his catalog.

I have had good luck with the rebuilt Rochester carbs from AutoZone (I do not see one listed, now). As suggested above, do not give them your old carb as a core until you have run the new carb. If the new carb leaks where the top "cover" meets the base, or if it leaks where the throttle plate pivot exits the sides of the body, take it back and get another one.

Years ago, I purchased two rebuilt 1960 261 carbs from Jim Carter. They both did not match (one had the different air cleaner attachment that was used in earlier years). After quickly being sent a new carb, the carbs ran fine and have been in service for over 10 years.

Rockauto.com has one for about $90 plus shipping, but it is most likely rebuilt (it has a core charge).

I sent mine to these guys
click here

I got it back, installed it, never adjusted anything, never had any problem with it..

seems like the price was reasonable, I wanted them to use my carb, I believe you have an option...

I just bought one from this place.

http://www.carburetorexchange.com/plp/search.php?year=1958&man_id=10&man_model_id=291

$100 core though

I'll make sure to install & run the carb for a couple of days before I return the core.

I don't want any issues - as you can tell - carbs are pretty much a mystery to me. I can turn wrenches well enough, but when it comes to some of these things they are better left to a professional.

great, I think mine was about 80 bucks with shipping..
remember, in most cases a carb is the last thing to look at.. just my opinion, I am sure others will vary..

good luck, keep us advised of the out come.

thanks Joker - I'm pretty sure its the carb. I've cleaned or replaced each and every other thing from the tank out. The ignition is new except for the wires & they wouldn't cause this issue. Since this was the first carb I've ever rebuilt & I didn't know what I was doing. I'd bet $$ that I did it wrong.

My goal is to get this old truck up and running so i can use it on my farm - & I don't have the time to learn how to do it all.

I'm OK with a quick replacement & move on. I need to rebuild the master cyl. (which I have done before & know how to do) & find a new ignition switch & this old truck is on the road!