The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors Dynacorn replacement hinges

tried a set of dynacorn's replacement hinges on my 52 and found that the bend in upper hinge is to sharp and prevents hinge from seating in door deep enough. The hinge binds and causes about 1/2 inch of rear door drop I couldn't correct. I put on an old set of hinges off 48 that hadn't been rebuilt yet and my door actually fits better than with new ones. Have to admit I'm not very happy after spending over 300.00 on new hinges. Has anyone else had this problem? The bottom hinge doesn't seem to be a problem!

I've heard of several guys having good luck just replacing the hinge pins in their old hinges.(if the holes aren't ovaled out) A good used set of hinges is probably better than any reproduction out there.

Oh - Welcome to stovebolt.com!

Ha! I guess I just found out that new isn't always the best choice. Just wondering if a little heat might fix problem but I think I'll just send em back to where I found em and rebuild an old set. Thanks!

Doug R a solution might be to repair the originals if you have them. If you have elongated holes, you can fix them easily by inserting a brass rod smaller than the pin hole through the worn out hole, center it,weld & fill in. The rod will not stick to the weld just remove it, redrill & install new pins and bushings. Mine were repaired this way and work just fine. Also if the tin plate on the face is rotted or damaged, check out the tech tip on how to make these. Hope this helps you and other fellow bolters.

Doug, there is a nice tech tip article about rebuilding these hinges. I printed it out, looked at the pics and read the article about 4 times to fully understand and then did mine. They work great. Give it a try. You may be surprised and besides your time you will only be out the cost of door pins and maybe a drill bit.

Thanks guys for all your help..I ordered new pins to repair my old hinges! Just need this Texas heat to let up a lil bit so I can get some work done! Whew!

Hello,
I need to rebuild one of my hinges, but don't see the article in tech tips, what is its title?
Thanks,
Chris

Here is the original post on the subject.
It was written by Brian Martin.(MARTINSR)
<click>

I sent an email to Peggy/John to save this tech tip...Joe

I bought new hinges from Classic Parts and except for some VERY minor issues they fit and work perfectly... and I was amazed.

Hi Woody,

I'm glad you had good luck with hinges. You know my right door seems to be ok with new hinges but left door was horrible. It's in at the top in front and has about 1/2 of drop in back. This is with entire new floor, door frame and hinges. Starting to wonder if the problem is my door. The thing is my door is level with old hinge. What's the odds I just got bad left upper hinge from dynacorn?

I enjoyed your thread on cowel repair...it was very helpful..I have a question for ya! Should inner cowel and floor be flush at top? It seems to me that some door frames sit a lil lower than others in photo's. I installed cowels and door frame all as one new unit. I imagine this is different from truck to truck. Have a great 4th!

Doug

You probably noticed that I gave up trying to form the inner cowls and just cut off the bottoms off PICTURE to get it in. Then I cut the flange off the bottom piece and welded the curved part to the cowl and floorboard. PICTURE

Before you go bending the new hinges I'd suggest trying the originals to see if they will at least get the door properly aligned. If so, then your new hinges are bad. If they don't then you have other problems.

Don't know if this will help, but HERE is a diagram useful for bending hinges.

Woody,

Tell me if you think this is crazy! I have wondered what actually happens inside of doors over time. Is the structure that supports hinges shifting or weaking with all that weight hanging on it. During a brain storming moment I thought it would be interesting to cut enough outer skin off scrap doors to observe hinge mounts in action and see if there is repair or reinforcement that needs to be done. Is the real problem inside these doors instead of outside? Just a thought!

Doug

don't know about the AD's, but the TF doors have a poor setup inside them for the hinges to attach on that side, the sheet metal around the mount plate cracks and it's not always visible thru the bolt cover plate hole - it's near impossible to repair in there too

Bill

Bill,

I will have to replace portion of outer and inner door skin as I have small area of rust going all the way through at bottom of door. Would you suggest replacing entire outer door skin? I believe there are 12" replacements for outer. This would also give me a chance to take better look at mounts for hinges inside doors. Probably should just look for different doors but don't know if I will find anything any better than what I have. Ater market doors are expensive and haven't had the greatest luck with replacement panels!

Doug

I've always replaced the minimum necessary, most times just buying some body metal from a local supplier is best - the 12" patch would be easier to deal with than a whole skin, providing you've got welding down or know someone to do it

with the door off the cab you can get a peek in the hinge hole, and any deterioration will be evident, then you decide how much to open it up - I've cut out the hinge [front] face of doors, that works to fix the area and is easier to weld back without as much bodywork

Bill

I can't see any way that the hinge mount points inside the door could shift or weaken unless terribly rusted. It's just a simple sheetmetal pocket that's spot welded together.