The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop New Engine - Wondering (worried) if I got took?

Well, I got the engine mounted (thanks guys) on the stand. I brought this home yesterday and the guy said it had been rebuilt, he just hadn't put a new valve cover gasket on yet. Said it was pretty much ready to drop in. I didn't spend a horrible amount on it ($250 for the motor, $150 for fuel to go get it on the 8 hr trip each way). I said no problem, he seemed honest and had sent me pictures and everything. I'm not saying he isn't honest, although I'm a bit confused. I took the valve cover off since it was loose and the tube is broke off that directs the oil which comes from the pump. Its broke right where it connects to the collar (in the middle of the rocker arm assembly). Looks like it is supposed to come up, wrap around that shaft and twist back down to the surface of the head. Am I screwed guys or is there a fix such as welding (bronzing?) the copper together? I really thought I was buying a motor I didn't have to pull completely apart.

OK - I think I figured out how to add a link to a photo. PLEASE - ANY advice would be appreciated!

[image]http://picasaweb.google.com/prpytli...Gv1sRgCJHZ_oamhYvtbQ#5349906021121748482[/image]

Please post of photo, if you are able to do so.

What year and size engine?

sorry, its a 235. The guy said it was out of a 1955 or 56. I'm going to study up on how to post a photo. I'll see if I can figure it out. (OK, I've added a link - Please see photo!)

I'd say you described it pretty well.

Someone else will have to discuss the pros/cons of welding/brazing.

I'd probably try to get a replacement tube and put it on the rocker arm. Did the seller give you any guarantee or money back offer?

I'd have to pull the motor apart to do that wouldn't I? I mean, I assume the tube connects somewhere around the oil pump or somewhere like that. Then, since the tube seems to be actually connected (like the same part) to the "collar" on the rocker arm assembly I'd have to pull that apart too wouldn't I? I've never bought a motor before, I think it was an as-is buy.

No, you don't have to take the motor apart to put in a replacement. You would have to take one side (I believe) of the rocker assembly off. The tube assembly slides onto it, and the metal tube fits into a hole in the head. It wouldn't be that hard to replace it. The valves may not even need to be readjusted - if they did, they wouldn't be off by much. I would just replace it instead of trying to braze it. I'd have to dig around, but I think I have an extra one somewhere - put an ad in the parts wanted section - I'm sure there's plenty of those around.
Samantha

Samantha, if that's true - I'd be a very happy man. It isn't possible that the motor would be ok just "squirting" oil up out of the broke tube the way it is would it? I'm assuming that's not the case, but thought I'd ask. Any idea what the official name for that tube and collar is? I just hope there wasn't anything else he failed to tell me.

Those pipes are not really all that hard to break. Just depends on what its been leaned against, or fallen on while sitting in the shop.
Pictures can hide a lot of sins but judging from your picture the head looks nice and clean. You can even see the pores of the metal. If he is trying to shaft you he spent a lot of time cleaning an old head to look that good.
I think you will be ok and that tube thing is no big problem. Like some one mentioned. Pull the front half of the rock arm off and replace it. Bolt the rock arms back and if your lucky no valve adjustment needed....

I'd take the broken piece down to the plumbing supply and get a ferrule or a piece of tube that just fit over it and sleeve the pieces together .... clean it good and use some JB Weld it it's not a real tight fit, there's no real pressure in that tube

I had a 57 that had the tube end above the rocker shaft with a slight crimp, just a bit higher than yours is broke - engine worked fine

Bill

Can you guys tell me if its a big job to remove the rocker arm assembly enough to get to that piece? What I'm really wondering about is after I remove the retaining bolts do I have to unscrew the rods connected to the rockers to remove the assembly or do they just lift out with it (and if there is a choice which is best)? I want to do as little readjustment as possible when I put it back together.

the simpliest solution is cut tube down about an inch and get compression fitting(look like no metal missing)... the rocker panel is easily removed... depending on year,,, you might want to remove distributor...

You can read about this, and see pictures, in the shop manual. If you don't have one, you should get one, or at least read it at the old car manual project, on the interweb. You will need to know how to adjust your tappets any way, they need to be set hot. Plus, after you run your engine the first time, you need to re-torque the head, and adjust the tappets again. If you don't have crowfoot wrenches, you need to remove the rocker arm assembly to reach all of the bolts on the head anyway. Taking them off (the rockers and tubes) gives you a chance to make sure there is no sludge or sediment in the tubes.

Why not drop the oil pan, and look the engine over while it's on the stand. It's a good easy time to become familiar with it. It's really simple in there.

Boy do I sound bossy! You should do this, you should do that. You should feel free to ignore me!

It is a good time and place to start right. The tube is readily available from many vendors, Jim Carters, Chevs of the forties, etc.

Its real easy, take pictures before you start if you are unsure of how it should look when you put it back together. You will not have to reset the valves putting it back together. Loosen the top bolts on the shafts and carefull lift off the back or front section of the shaft. Make sure that when you remove the rocker arm shafts the push rods don't move from on top of the lifters, you can't see them. Replace the oil tube and put it back together. Good luck.

On my '58, I had to loosen both ends of my rocker shaft (that's six whole bolts) to get the center high enough to lift the collar out of the hole in the head and slide it off the shaft. Probably best if it is loose when you replace it, too.

The tube is a slide in fit into the head on the intact end and just directs overflow oil to a hole in the head on the broken end. Incidentaly, on mine, there is a machined hole on the underside of the tube right where yours is broken.

I imagine the engine would run just fine as is--just a lot of oil squirting up onto the rocker cover.

It just lifts out but use caution it has shims (diamond shaped) on the pillars that bolt to the head and it has those springs that if you don't wire it together it will come apart in lots of pieces. Take it a part and reassemble in exactly the same order. Don't mess with the rocker arm adjustments if you don't have to.