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#544476 06/08/2009 1:05 AM
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Hey guys! I'm new to the group, all the way from Calgary Alberta! I'll try to get my truck on here soon. I just got it, it's a 61 Apache Fleetside half ton, long box. It's got the original 283 in it, but someone once swapped out the 3 on the tree for a 4 speed on the floor. It works well, except sometimes it seems to get stuck in gear. If I shut the truck off, it pops out into neutral no problem. Does this mean my clutch is worn? Any feedback would be awesome. Thanks!

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Is it a car trans or a truck trans?
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

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You may not have any freeplay left in the clutch adjustment. That could mean a new clutch. Start by seeing if you can play with the adjustment and see if that helps or hurts the situation. Report back.

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With the hydraulic clutch slave, it could also mean that you're having issues with it.

I'd check and adjust the clutch linkage, and check the hydraulic line and the master cylinder to make sure there's fluid in it.

-Brad


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It's a trans out of a 3/4 ton, so i was told.

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This seems like a dumb question, but I'm a bit of a newbie....how do I check the adjustment? Or, how do I adjust the clutch freeplay?

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Don't forget the pilot bushing. When they get dry/worn the tranny will be hard or nearly impossible to shift.


Wenco Ind. Driveshafts VAn Nuys, CA Est. 1967
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it shifts good most of the time, unless I use the clutch alot, holding it down alot, like when 3 point turning the rig into a parking stall. Got stuck in second at church the other day and stalled on me, ha ha! I have a feeling the slave cylinder's screwey, maybe leaks past the piston. Whaddya think?

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I would think if the slave leaks past the piston you would feel the drop in the pressure on your pedal similar to brakes loosing fluid or pressure. I am not 100% sure of that though. My slave cylinder actually leaks fluid on to the ground, I have no trouble shifting.Do you have a manual? 11-2 explains 2 adj.pedal total travel(bumper adjustment) and pedal free travel. I could scan and send out page for you although I don,t know if that will solve anything. Ask Woogaroo.Or Scott

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I don't have a manual...but yes, the pedal seems to lose pressure, it becomes softer if held down too long. Ken, nice truck!! Kinda inspires me to keep mine.

Last edited by Adam61; 06/25/2009 3:53 AM.
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The Slave Cylinder for the clutch system resides on the bellhousing. It takes about 20 minutes to rebuild it and then reinstall it. I had to do this on my 61 a couple tears ago. I just pulled it off, ordered a rebuild kit, and put it back in.

The kit consisted of a seal and a new piston. It was like 3 pieces, very simple. Kit was $15 and a new cylinder was $70ish...

That is where I would look. Make sure to bleed the system when you are done...air in the lines = not working!

Also when you bleed the system...put on some eye protection...the system builds a good amount of pressure and the fluid really makes your eyes sting!!

Good Luck,

Kyle


"Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what to do and they will surprise you with their ingenuity." - George S. Patton

My Machine
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That's definitely gonna be my plan of attack Kyle. Except that mine is mounted on the inner fender behind the oil filter. Possibly because it used to be a 3 on the tree? Is bleeding a clutch done the same way as bleeding brakes?

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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Fort Knox
I had to do this on my 61 a couple tears ago.


Also when you bleed the system...put on some eye protection...the system builds a good amount of pressure and the fluid really makes your eyes sting!!

That explains the "couple of tears" cry


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You absolutely need to get a shop manual. They show up on ebay all the time. They're being reprinted, and the prices for good originals are nearly what they are for the reprints.
I took my time and lucked out, getting an original in perfect shape, for $6 plus shipping. The manual is for '60 model, carried over for '61, and then the '62 is a thin supplement to the '60, so I had to find both.

The return spring on the clutch arm should run up to a small bracket on the frame, but the slave cylinder itself should bolt to the bellhousing. If it really is bolted to the frame, you need to change that.

Also, I discovered something very interesting when I pulled my engine--the clutch fork rides on a pivot ball inside the bellhousing. That pivot IS removable. The pivot ball is about the diameter of a nickel, and is obviously a ball. However, on my truck, after 45 years, it had worn down to a sharp little point! No ball, just a round little pyramid. I have no idea how it even worked anymore. Check that out too. It takes a whole lot more effort to get access to it though. But it can be done without removing the engine--you'll just need to gain access from below.

-Brad

Last edited by Brad54; 07/01/2009 7:47 PM.

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The four speed also came in 1/2 tons. my dad has a 62 1/2 we bought from the original owner and it has the "granny" 4, my nephew also has a 60 apache he just bought and it also has the original six with the "grannie" [email protected]


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