The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop What is it with.............

47-55 rear springs. Is it me or is the center bolt forward on the spring some so when you try installing a late model rear end, it sits towards the front of the rear fender!! Is there a quick fix?? Is there a standard measure for moving it back to center it up in the fender?? TIA

There are two ways to solve this problem. There are alignment plates available for about a hundred bucks or you could make them. Secondly you could redrill the springs and move the alignment pins. As memory serves me the mesurement is about 2 in. If you have your old axel you can get the mesurements form it.
Good luck with your change over.

I haven't done it yet, but am told that if you flip the springs around, the pin ends up in the right place.

Me, I'm going to "spring" for a new set from Eaton Detroit. They will put the pin whereever you want -- 1.5" back from stock is supposed to center the wheels nicely.

Cheers,
mark.
'51 KY 3100

If you turn the springs around the axle will be too far back to center in the fender opening. Yoy will need to drill a new hole in the spring perch to move it forward.

Just for the record, If you plan on trying to drill through the leaves themselves, pack yourself a big sack lunch and plenty of Gator-aid...


Stuart

Buy the kit... it's easier that way. unless you have a plasma cutter and assoc'd eq and time to make ALL new ones. The kit shock attachments bolt where your old stock hangers were located.
The kit you can buy for the $135.00 includes the re-alignment shoes that cradel the 3'' new axle and move the axle 1.5'', new shock mount plates which have the holes drilled to re-locate the spring pin, the 4 U bolts. My kit from CD had too short of U bolts. and we still made a flat stock plate to move the axle 2'' so my new under bed gas tank could fit. I think the 2'' move looks better. The U bolts should be about 8'' the kits ones were 7''

First I'd like to correct your opening statement. It should read "47-54 rear springs".

Now if you can find a set from a '55 first series you won't have a problem. The hole is centered on them.

Well, I don't have experience with the first series. I have to make bottom plates anyway, so I'll probably get some 1/4" x 1 3/4" stock and a really short cap screw. I forgot to even look if I have upper shock mounts ( 52 Suburban.) I'll have to incorporate the lower mount into the bottom plate.

I had a look at the service manual and it explained why the bolt was where it is at. Neither of my stovebolts came with original rear ends.

mnsmith check your email and call me i could help you out. i am off the 10fwy at azusa hwy 39

NS Smith.Had that problem,Here's my quick fix to get that rearend housing back to the center of the rear fender opening.NO drilling.First you'll need Two lug nuts.One for each side.Set your rearend on the rear main leaf spring, center your axel and mark.Now slide your housing forward.Get the lug nut Set it on your marked spot and mig weld the nut to the top of the spring.This will act as your new center pin.Now check your pinion angle of the rearend .That's around 5%.Once set weld your saddles or spring purches to the housing.Bolt the rear end in,and make shock mounts .The last thing you want to do is the drive shaft,Measure very careful.NAPA makes a U-Joint Setup up and step down. from ford to chevy or what ever you want.This is a life saver,Good luck.I'm running a 700r4 tranny with a 9"Ford rearend :confused: :confused:

I think my fix is a little easier and no welding involved. 1/4" x 1 3/4" steel, maybe 6" long. Drill and tap for a short cap screm ( allen head type.) Then drill a hole at 1.5", 2", 2.5", whaatever, making it adjustable. As long as the holes sit under the axle saddle so they get locked into place with the U bolts. Your choice whether you want to make it fit over the center bolt or so that a new center bolt goes through it. A similar hole should be in the bottom plate to match.

If I didn't have access to materials, machines, welders and plasma cutters, I'd probably get that Chevy Duty kit. However, I can make my own. I'm not sure about that lug nut idea, wouldn't the nut be too big??

Maybe I should explain my set up. The original torque tube axle is long gone. It had a later 3/4 ton axle with a four speed, so the driveline is open from the pillow block. Out with the 3/4 ton, in with a 10 bolt. New saddles under the axle, over the springs. U bolts over the axle. Spring plate under the spring pack with provisions for a shock. And that should do it! BTW, I'm upgrading with 1978 Cadillac Seville rear discs.

There will be some welding involved but not on the springs themselves. I've removed the 3/4 ton axle so far and it looks like the spring bushings will need some attention. I didn't want to do this, but I think I might remove the body so I can have some real access to work on the frame. Plumb and wire everything new front to rear along with cleaning and painting components. Makes it nice that I have a 6 ton overhead crane to use!! Sorry, I almost started bragging there!

In answer to the original question, what is up with the pin being forward? It is due to the hinge set up at the rear axle that was necessary with the torque tube. I have a set up similar to MNSmith. Had a shop weld up the new spring perches. I have heard the flip method works but have never seen it. Do note that even with the torque tube rearend, the stock look, without a load, was for the wheel to sit forward in the wheel well. Under load the axle will move back some, but stock I do not think the wheel ever appeared to be centered in the wheel well.
Steve O

I actually did the spring flip trick. I measured twice and it looked like it would center it perfectly but it wound up being too far back. I then just drilled another hole in the spring perch to move the axle forward a little. The spring perches were bought at a trailer repair center for $10. If I had to do it again, I would buy the kit. I assume it would save a lot of time. I just saw the kit in a CPP ad for $99. Good luck.

Hmm. For $99 I'll have to check it out!

Ah yes, this is exactly what I am going to make. Only I'll add a couple more holes for 1 3/4", 2" and maybe 2 1/4" just to adjust centering my axle.

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/1947_59_Trucks/4753LSCK.htm

I did the swap from the original closed driveshaft to a F**D 9 inch. Used the Mopar spring perch from Jeg's. Didn't have to drill any holes. Used the holes that were pre-drilled in the perches. Even though it made the rear end set ahead about an inch, you couldn't tell it.
All the original springs and shock mounts are re-used, but you will probably need different U-bolts.

If your tring to save a buck. why ask??? if your going to do it your way.These problems have been solved.So whats the problem.can ya hear me.This site is great 'but sometimes there are some sad questions???????

I hear ya. Most folks on here want to save a buck or 2. What's your problem today? The Steelers won big. Have a beer.

Well, if you read my original post, I was asking why they were off center that way. Not having an original torque tube, I didn't understand why the pin was forward an inch and a half. Now I know why. Then I asked if there was a quick fix. The fixes suggested are the same as my quick fix. If I can make something myself, as good if not better and less than something purchased, then why not. I'm not one of those guys that pays other people to do my work for me then trailer the thing around to shows passing it off as my work. I won't do it on a big level or a small level. Everything done on my project, I can say I did myself! And with a high standard of quality. Next I asked what the standard measure was. Nothing wrong with asking for someones previous experience or bouncing ideas off the wall. That's usually how the hobby progresses. With your line of thinking, your forums would have no one asking questions because they have been asked and answered before. Would you feel better if you told me how to do it and I followed all your instructions to the letter?? Then every truck out there would look exactly like yours??

Don't see anywhere where I said I wanted to save a buck. Is there a rule someplace that says I have to spend as much money as possible??

Now, if you had bothered to read my earlier reply to you, I had asked about the lug nut method. I don't know about you, but most lug nuts I run across range in size from about 3/4" to about 1 1/2" for a Budd nut. Most spring perches have a 1/2" hole. How does a lug nut fit inside?? Do you mean a stud!! How does heat from welding on a spring affect it?? Most times I have seen a spring welded, that is right where they snap or crack. Something I don't wish to happen when I'm on the road. Whether it affects me or the motorists around me. Yup, I'm not the only one on the road.

Rather than feel critisized that I didn't choose your method, maybe you should read that I was curious about how your method worked and I was looking for more information on it!! If you ask, I'll be the first to tell you that my way might not always be the best way and that I'm open to suggestions!

Unless, of course, you feel my question is too sad.

Mnsmith, you have a point. I will be asking the same questions,as i will be putting in a open drive-line in my 1951 chevy 1/2 ton.

Something that i always wanted to know is why did gm install the torque tube rear-end off center of the rear fenders ? You can look at any torque tube truck, and the wheels are not centered in the fenders, why ?

I have a rear-end out of an 1967-1969 camaro, that is suppose to fit right in, we'll see when i get to that point.I'm curious if it will be off center ?

It sounds like gm solved this problem with there 2nd series 1955 trucks with open drive-line.

As far as the searches for past articles, I wonder if you get all related articles involved with your search ?

Thanks, Tim

Well, if you don't do something to compensate for the offset, you will go from slightly offset to way offset!

[img]http://www.bunchobikes.com/1952suburban2.jpg[/img]

I will fit right in, just like this 3/4 ton axle, but it will sit forward just like in the pic.

Nice truck Mark! Those are really getting hard to find. I hope to find one myself someday. How many old Schwinns will fit in the back of it?

I put an open driveline in my '37 pickup and have the forward offset problem, but it's not nearly as severe as the photo shows yours to be. I like your solution and will probably do the same on my truck.

Hello Eric and Merry Christmas -

I want to hear about your way to solve this problem because I will be dealing with this same issue winthin the next month or so.

S-o-o-o-o-o, keep us posted!

Thanks,
Joe

Hi Joe,
Thanx for Xmas wishes.
Did you follow the link that Mark provided?

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/1947_59_Trucks/4753LSCK.htm

Looks like a simple, straight forward solution that is pretty simple to make. No need to pay $100 for these.

Yup! Get yourself some of these: http://tinyurl.com/dvy3j and some steel. Drill, tap, put your axle where you want it!