The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Grounding Problems?

Hey guys-
I just got my 54' 3100 w/ original 6 volt system and almost nothing electric works. I have no:
-headlights
-horn
-heater fan
-wipers
-virtually no gauges

After a little checking I'm pretty sure that the majority of my problem is through grounding problems. I've thought about running grounds wires from the various components straight back to the negative terminal (I found a little do-dickey that slips over your terminal and has some spade connectors on it).

Would I be better off to go through and try to clean up all the grounding connections? Where are they? I know there's the Neg Terminal to Frame Connection, and a Frame to Engine Block, but where are the others? Does the electricity go through the body panel connections? I ask because my truck is VERY rusty.

and NO, I'm not going to switch to 12v.

Sorry if these are dumb questions, but electrical is my weak point....In preparation for this weekend I bought an extra-large tube of di-electric grease.

Bryan

A frame to the body (box) ground is needed. I think if there is one it is usually near the back of the frame closer to the taillights on the drivers side. I guess I would try to clean them up. Pull the taillight housings and clean up the body where the screws hold the housing on. Go right to bare metal. Use star washers. Check all the firewall wire connectors too. Use a wire toothbrush and clean them up good. Spray them with WD-40 and blow them dry with compressed air. Then coat them with a little dielectric grease. Hope this helps.

Yes
Yes

It's hard if not impossible to have too many ground connections in a 6v system. Most likely you won't need to mess with all of the body panel to body panel joints. Just making sure everything has a good ground TO the body will most likely work for you. Make sure the ground strap connections from the battery to the frame (my 38 grounds to the tranny) are clean. I'm sure others will chime in with hints.

Bryan,

The grounding of all electrical components rely on a good metal-metal connections between frame and both the engine/clutch-housing and any sheet metal components that is supposed to provide the ground to anything electrical mounted on/to it. I use a non-corrosive (rust-resisting) conductive grease at all the grounding connection points - any place I want a good ground, including where sheet metal screws hold electrical components to sheet metal ( Kopr Shield or NAPA equivalent (see below)).

Dielectric grease is good for decreasing corrosion/oxidation but it is not conductive.

All ground cables should be 2/0 (00) gauge or bigger (as should be the positive battery lead to the starter).

A 2/0 ground strap could/should be placed:

- battery to frame (behind battery); or,
- battery to clutch-housing or one of the starter mounting bolts.
- frame to clutch-housing near the starter
- frame to clutch-housing on the other side of the engine
- engine head (rear of the coil) to firewall (especially important if you have a radio)

Tim

Description of NAPA product:

(Conductive) Anti-Seize Compound & Lubricant, 4 oz

NAPA Part: BK 7652569
Product Line: Balkamp

Features_&_Benefits

Premium Quality Copper Anti-Seize & Thread Lubricant That May Be Used to Prevent Seizing, Corrosion & Galling Where High Temperature Conditions Exist, Contains High Percentage Of Micro-Fine Copper Flakes, Provides Good Electrical Conductivity

what can i say to add to this
i grounded all new paint away from the metal frame or sheet metal
using a serrarated washer always helps
i have coated all ground contacts so they don't oxidize or rust do to water, salt, snow etc.
i have grounded everything to the frame :::::

radiator frame to inner fender .... pusher fan mounted
inner fender to frame ..... inner fender has electrical relay panel mounted
batt to frame
engine to frame
cab to frame
cab to under bed gas tank
tank to frame.... it has two points of grounding
rear roll pan to frame
each taillamp to main wire harness ground wire... which also has two points to frame gnd

http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=16A-1.jpg
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=2650080-R2-014-5A.jpg
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=2650080-R2-008-2A.jpg
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=587685-R1-036-16A.jpg

Wow guys....Thanks for all the help, I think I have enough to make me dangerous! One more thing though, my problems might be stemming from missing a minor ground cable. Does any one have any pictures of where the ground cables would have been from the factory?

ground straps on coil side of engine (use diagram at top - 3100 truck)

ground strap on the generator side of engine

Install a ground strap from bolt on fender brace on the firewall to a bolt on the coil side of the head (I use the rear-most bolt that holds the coil to the head). This is part of the 1954 truck-radio installation instructions.