The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Kingpins

I've read all the posts about swapping kingpins but still have questions. Three different shops have told me I should swap them out but i'm at a loss. Even with the suspension in the air, the front end doesn't have any play. Should I just lube the chassis and see what happens? In my tool scrounging I've found a C clamp with a hole in one end that was used way back when to push the kingpins out from the top. You simply latch it on and start turning. The pin comes out the hole in the bottom.

Since they are relatively cheap and quite easy to replace, why not just do it now to eliminate your doubt and go onto something else?

Why fix it if it ain't broke. If there is no play and it is not stiff to turn just keep them greased.

1)He said 3 shops told him they need replaced.
2) I would like to think that at least 1 of 3 shops are competent and honest.
3)We don't know how he checked for play.
4)Zero play is not a reality even when everything is perfect.
5)He can't decide what to do.
6)They are cheap and very easy to replace.

Conclusion: Replace them for the peace of mind.

Is this a half-ton truck? Might be easy. I know 3/4 ton and larger have pressed in bushings that are reamed in place. Some big truck shops use a brake cylinder hone instead of a reamer to match fit the bushings to the pins.

Sometimes they can be a real bear to get out. If they have little or no play & take grease good I wouldn,t replace them unless you just wan,t something to fix.

Just finished my 58 1/2 ton. It's not that large a task, and is something you can easily tackle as long as you have a competent machine shop nearby. Once you have removed the caps at the top and bottom of the spindle, spray liberally with PB Blaster or whatever you prefer, let it soak in overnight, and you can usually coax them out without too much effort.

One of mine came out easily, but the other would not budge. Had to remove axle and take it to a press to get it removed. Have the new pins fitted to the spindle and bushings, and reassemble. Its not that difficult, and once done, its likely you will never have to worry about them again (well, perhaps a little grease now and then).

Good Luck,

www.ssbrakes.com makes roller bearing king pin kits for some trucks.i looked under 1949 chevy siverado.

Also look for kaiser spiral wound bushing grooved king pin sets. A bit pricey but a big improvement over standard and no machine shop needed.

A C-clamp might not be adaquate for the job. It took 20 tons of pressure on a 40 ton press to sneak mine out!

And I thought the C Clamp that I was given would be perfect for the job. GM even carried it as one of their special tools in their earlier shop manuals. Maybe it'll work on tractors and for holding wood together.

I tried the C clamp when I replaced mine. I now have a bent non-functioning C clamp. I even tried taking the end plugs out, filling the top with a penetrating oil, then jacking the truck up, putting a long socket under the king pin, on a stump, and beating the snot out of it with a big hammer. That did not work either.

I took the front axle off the truck and had it done at a machine shop. They have a bench press and I think it cost about $20. I had purchased the king pins from one of the vendors but it would have cost the same from the machine shop. They were a NAPA affiliate.

Best of luck. If I did it again, I would have a machine shop press the old ones out and replace them professionally.

A good long handled sledge hammer is a fine tool and was needed for my 1-ton. It took a full swing and every bit of vinegar I could muster up.

I guess I got lucky with my 1/2 ton because I easily tapped them out with a small hammer. The previous owner was apparently an idiot and had the bushings upside down so the grease couldn't get inside. This forced me to replace the pins.