Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
0 members (),
54
guests, and
3
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,072 Posts1,055,906 Members48,429 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 | I want to upgrade to P/S on my truck. I have the frame exposed and have printed the Classic Trucks article on how to do it but I'm confused on a few things. http://www.classicperform.com/power6066.htm I understand I need to purchase 1969-'87 2wd, Chevy truck power steering gearbox and pitman arm. But what type or model of pump do I look for. Also, I will need to buy the frame plate that a lot of truck outfitters sell. I have the oem unit but everyone tells me to upgrade to a more modern unit because after I get through buying new high pressure hoses and fittings it would have been cheaper to upgrade, I don't know what way to go, any thought on this? About 2 years ago I bought the OEM P/S setup for my truck form another member (either here on this BB or on Jolly's 60-66 BB). I have the 305 V-6 and will need to use the OEM brakets I have. I also have the upper and lower 2 groove pulley set so I'm OK on that end. Anybody did this before. They sell a complete af kit buy It probally won't fit my application and it like $700+ yikes. Any help appr. I don't know why I'm having such a hard time trying to get my mind wrapped around this. Thanks Jake | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | I'm not sure how to fit the pump to a V-6 but the rest of the install is easy. I got the pump, lines and box from a 78 3/4 2wd truck for my 64 upgade. I made my own frame mount but the REZ Engineering's plate looks like the easy way out. The instuctions you linked to are pretty much how you do it. My upgrade didn't cost anything since I had the parts. I would find a donor to rob and not buy any kits. For $700, you could easily buy a whole other truck to rob the parts from. Scott | | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 | Scott,
Can I use an earlier year? After '76 or '77 things went metric. I stopped by my FLAPS and got the prices for a '78 1/2 ton.
Gear Box $145 Pump $49.99 Pitman Air $11.99 Low Pressure return hose $11.99 High Pressure Hose $15.99
I'm not the sort to try to save a penny when it will cost me .10 cents but I figure a new grearbox and pump makes since?
If I find one in a junk yard are the steerng box and pump generally relyable? I'd hate to get them on and start having issues?
Your Thoughts? Thanks for the help. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | You can use any year you like that has a power steering box (sector) that's shaped like yours. 73-87 would probably be the best ranges in the 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks. As far as metric, it's just the line fittings that are metric. That's why I suggest getting everything from one vehicle, no mixing and matching and you get brackets and hardware that you wouldn't get from buying new. I would go with used parts as long as they look like they aren't leaking. These old boxes last forever as long as they aren't ever wrecked. And reseal kits are still available too. I like to buy the old 73-87 trucks that are rusted to the ground and scrap them out. Most have V-8's, automatics, power steering, etc. I just aquired a 78 3/4 4X4 for free that has a fresh crate engine and trans. that's very rusty but is now my plow truck. There's tons of them out there that can be had for a couple hundred or less. That's the way I would go, Scott | | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 | Scott forgive the idiot question, but I've never done this before. When you say Power steering box you mean the frame mounted unit? And would this be a "rotary Valve system" This link is from classic trucks explaining how to convert our trucks over to P/S http://www.classicperform.com/power6066.htmSince I've never done this before I'll ask a lot of questions of the BB. On page 644 of my shop manual, they show a power steering power cylinder. However this may be for the bigger trucks as the frame is totally diferent I don't think I need that as it is not covered in the article. However, what is it that causes the steering to be easier, just the pressure going through the gear box? Jake | | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 | O.K.
I figured out what the problem was, other than my stupidity. In the OEM shop manual they show the "old Style" power steering unit that incorporated a Power Cylinder Ram to move the Tie Rod. This was done away with in the early '60's becasue the Saginaw Power Gearbox was "invented" or adapted to be used on these trucks.
I could not for the life of me figure out how the rod/cycliner was used. I did not understand that it was done away with. I don't have those parts and will not want to use it any way!
In the 2 different articles writeen for Classic Trucks, neither one exlained about the older style, it just assumed that you did not have it.
With this explained I now understand that I need to buy or find a 1969-1987 2wd half-ton Chevy Truck Power Steering Box and matching year Pitman arm. This will attach directly to the Powere Steering Pump mounted on the V-6.
WHEW I'm glad that's over! I do a complete photo shoot and write up for our BB as well as Jolly's and others. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 92 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 92 | Now you got it! The ram system was more of a car application and was barely usable then (my 63 Impala had one). The Saginaw box has been a good piece for many years. I think Chrysler and Ford even used them for a while, Scott | | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 | I stopped by my FLAP and see a Saginaw steering box, geez them be some heavy units, 'bout 25-30 pounds. No wonder you need to put on a set of brackets. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 | For lunch today I drove by the new “Pull-A-Part” yard in Harvey, next to the Harvey Canal. It just opened after Katrina. First, I want to say this has got to be the neatest and best kept parts junk yard I’ve ever seen. All the cars and trucks are grouped together by brand. There are sections for GM, Ford, Dodge/Chrysler and import, etc. All are set up where you can easily get 2-3 people around them without fighting for space. All of them are at least 1-2 feet off the ground sitting safely on rims that won’t shift. The yard is white lime stone and CLEAN no oil or grease issues. Each vehicle had a white sticker in it that states the year of manufacture, so you won’t waste time looking at the wrong thing. They provide wheel barrows for you to haul your parts in, placement bins for your core exchanges. A counter work area so you can clean up your parts on site. A wash up area with both hot and cold water with degreaser for your hands. If you just want to look around, it will cost you $1.00 but you feel like a kid in a candy store.
The counter has several CPU’s that are touch screen driven and you can search for either the vehicle by year, really cool. The parts prices are listed on the main screen. A power steering gear box with Pitman arm is $39.99 or $45.00 with a warranty (even exchange if the parts breaks)
I went through the yard and found not one, but 5 Saginaw power boxes, for the years 72-86. Beginning in 1987, the gearbox was moved to the inside of the frame rail and reversed, so that’s why you must find a 1967-1986 box. 3 had the steering column still attached, 2 had the pumps still attached and 2 were standing all by themselves. Most of the trucks were missing the outer fender and well as the inner fender, so the gear boxes are right there in your face.
I’m taking off a half day tomorrow and will pull 2 of the boxes. I’m pulling another one for a friend who wants the upgrade also. That will leave 3. I can if truly needed will go back and pull more but I would like payment in advance, we can deal with the shipping later. A decent Cigar will also be needed.
My Cell is 504-881-0265
Jake
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | Good deal, just get all of the brackets, hoses, hardware, etc. even if they're bad so you can match them up at a FLAPS if need be. Just get a dry unit (no leaks for pitman shaft) and you'll be good to go, Scott | | |
| |