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| | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 86 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 86 | 1959 Viking 60. I have rebuilt all the wheel cylinders, master cylinder and had the hydrovac proffesionaly rebuilt. I built a pressure bleeder that fits the top of the master reservoir. I have pumped about 2 gallons of fluid through and foolowed the shop manual instructions. Bled the hydrovac first but I still can't seem to get it to pedal up. My mechanic flat out refused to work on it. ( to his credit he is good on everything else) He says there will be air in the tops of the rear wheel cylinders that can't come out the bleeder valve because the valve is below the bubble and recommends taking the hubs off and unbolting the wheel cylinders to lay them out flat.
Does anyone have any tips or tricks?
Matt
"Brunhilde II" '59 Viking 60
To paraphrase Ben Franklin: "Big Bolts are proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy"
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,960 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,960 | It's been a long time since I have messed with hydrovacs and I have 2 of them that need replacing and I'm not looking forward to it. Hydrovacs have 2 bleeder valves. If you have a maintenance manual, I guess you are aware of that. Every time I have had problems with a hydrovac, it turned to be air in the hydrovac. I have never taken a wheel off to get air out of a wheel cylinder. If you live in midland, there should be someone out there who has worked on hydrovacs before that could help you. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | Hey Matthew,
First you need to be absolutely sure the brakes are adjusted properly. On a total rebuild, I always adjust them up tight to the point I can't turn the tires. Then I power bleed. First through the hydro-vac then the rears, then the fronts. If the pedal is still too low and doesn't pump up, then adjust the pedal to master or booster rod. Not too tight until the shoes get backed off.
Good luck.
BTW, you won't have to remove the cylinders, the air comes out, especially with a power bleeder. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 86 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 86 | I had already fully adjusted the brakes and backed them off until the wheels barely turned. What is the recommended max or min. pressure when using a bleeder? Is the master to hydrovac and then Hydrovac to cylinders essentially different circuits? I know fluid will flow all the way through but does the master to Hydro have to be absolutely air free first to get the rest of the system to bleed out?
Thanks for y'all help
Matt
"Brunhilde II" '59 Viking 60
To paraphrase Ben Franklin: "Big Bolts are proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy"
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Is this the setup where the wheel cylinders are vertical? If so, isn't there a way of backing off the adjustment to put the piston down into the bore next to the bleeder? I seem to recall reading about that. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | On my bleeder we usually set the pressure at 15-20 PSI,
Scott | | |
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