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I own a '70 GMC 1/2 ton with a 350 and a 350 hydramatic tranny. The engine is smoking a little and the tranny needs to be resealed, so they're both coming out. I've got a pretty good idea of what needs to happen for me to get them out, but I was wondering if soemone could give me a list of what all I need to do. And if while I have the tranny out, should I go ahead and rebuild it along with the reseal, or if I should just reseal it and leave it alone.

Are you asking how to get it out or what to do when you get it out.
If you can do an o-haul yourself & it doesn't need boreing or crank shaft ground then a minor o-haul kit will fix it up. If it needs complete rebuild or if you are not up to doing the laor yourself then a Goodwrench crate engine is the best bet. If the trans is working good & the fluid is not burnt then a seal job would be ok. If not then an o-haul is in order.

I am over in Bogart have 305 freshly rebuilt with about 6000 miles on it valve job rings bearings new cam & lifters timming chain with steel gears oil pump & pick up you can get this for less than 500

Buying & Selling parts should take place in the Swap Meet.

Wrenchbender Ret. I'm wanting to know what all I need to do to get the engine out. I've already started to look at engine stands and that sort of stuff, but one of my dad's friends is thinking of some upgrades to give this motor some fire in it's belly, whoo hoo! he thinks that it'll cost about $950 to do it all, as long as we don't have to bore it. He thinks that if we have to bore it out we'll spend the extra $200 and go for the Goodwrench crate motor. If I can get the driveshaft and all the extras with all the wiring undone, I'm planning to pull it out and get to work on Saturday.

Pull the hood and get it out of the way. Drain the coolant and engine oils. Pull out the radiator and take off the distributor, fan, pulleys and belts, fuel pump and lines, starter, exhaust, alternator, carb, temp sensor wires, etc. Unbolt the tranny bolts and engine mounts. Double check everything before pulling the engine and be careful of smashing your fingers from the engine rotating on the cherry picker. You want a floor jack or blocks for holding up the tranny also.

If you try to leave something on to save yourself some work, odds are that you will break something.

If the tranny is working OK, I would have the torque converter flushed, put in new filter and front and rear seals. Pulling the pan and filter may give you an idea if anything is wrong byinspecting the oild and debri in the pan and filter. Now is the time to do it right. Good luck and keep us up to date.

Today I didn't have much time to work, but I did manage to drain the coolant from the radiator and tried to start undoing it, but the nuts for the radiator support are frozen on. I poured some Liquid Wrench to them and I'll go back at it tomorrow. About how much oil does the 350 motor have in it?

A 350 generally hold 5 quarts of oil.

I got the radiator support off today, but the bolts were so rusted that after my pushing they both just snapped, oh well. I drained the oil too. the water pump and alternator found a new home on the bed of the truck. My next question is, how do I drain the rest of the coolant out of the block and what is the best way to get power steering belt off. Should I try to undo the pulley of the p/s pump or undo the whole pump itself, or should I take the harmonic balancer off. I want to know because that belt is in the way of all the other belts.

Your making good progress. The rest of the coolant will come pouring out at the least convenient time while you're removing the engine. Expect a mess, just be prepared to clean it up. The power steering pump will have an adjuster on the backside? I can't remember for sure, but it's on the pump in an awkward place. There's no reason to remove the pulley from the p/s pump. Leave the balancer on for now. It will have to come off eventually, but won't help much toward getting the engine out and is easier to do on the stand.

Devin

There are 2 pipe plugs one on each side of the block that you can remove & drain the rest of the coolant.It may be ness. to stick something up in the hole to get it started flowing. Just unbolt the PS pump & set it aside. If it wants to get in the way tie it back with mechanics wire or bungy cord.

I ended up only getting to take of the p/s pump today. The next thing to do is to get the fuel pump and carb off. I'm pretty sure I've found the fuel pump under all the sludge and Georgia red clay, but I'm not sure how to get it off wtithout fuel everywhere. I have no idea how much is in the tank because although we did drive it a while to get home, the gauge or sender is dead. Oh, how do I get the p/s fluid out of the steering gear?

You should be able to just unbolt the power steering pump from the engine and hang it on the inner fender well somewhere out of the way without removing the hoses. No reason to drain the PS pump and/or the steering gear.

For the fuel pump, get a rubber hose and let it drain into a cleanpan or gas container. You can also plug the hose with a bolt with a shoulder and hose clamp over the shoulder of the bolt. Make sure the gasoline issue is secure, or you may come into your garage with a floor of gasoline and a lot of fumes, which is the makings of trouble. Unbolt all the pulleys from the front of the engine. You don't want to bang them up either.

Unbolt the manifolds from the exhaust pipes and leave the manifold right on the engine. You can take them off if you want though.

I'm assuming that you have already unhooked the battery before you started, so pull the starter off the block and then take the flywheel tin off so you can get to the flywheel to torque converter bolts. You will have to turn the engine over, so pull out the spark plugs to make that easier.

Pull out the bolts from the center of the right and left engine mounts.

Take the cap and rotor off the distributor, remove coil/distributor wires and then unbolt the distributor base and pull it out.

Take the linkage off the carburetor, unbolt the carb from the manifold.

Unbolt the fan and pulley from the water pump. Unbolt the bottom pulleys from the dampner. Pull the alternator and bracket off. Undo the temp sending unit wire and look for ground wires from the manifold or valve cover to the firewall that need to be removed. The battery ground wire I like to take off the engine block too.

Unbolt the transmission housing from the engine block. Get the vehicle back on the ground if you have it on jackstands. Get your cherry picker bolted up (a load leveler really makes it nice) and put a floor jack under the transmission with a short 2x6 board on the pan. Just put a little pressure on it to hold the transmission in place.

Lift the engine with the Cherry picker a bit and most times you can jiggle the engine forward and away from the transmission. If it doesn't come loose, go back and check to make sure you got all the trans to engine bolts. Lift the engine (keep checking to make sure everything is disconnected while you are doing this) up. Tie the transmission up somehow so you can remove the jack. Move the vehicle back instead of pulling the cherry picker away from the truck. Be careful of the engine swinging and hitting the windshield.

Hope this helps a bit.