The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts flushing a 235

I'm using a special tool i bought at a swap meet that bolts in place of the water pump for a 55-62 235 and has a garden hose fitting on in to flush out the engine. The problem is that i can't seem to get water to come out of the drain at the back driver's side of the block due to some blockage. The engine has less than 500 miles since rebuild and i just acquired it so i really don't want to use harsh chemicals in fear of ruining the seals. Any suggestions?

Mike

Did you remove the drain plug and try a wire in there to see if its open?

Otherwise you'll need a bigger plunger to get a 235 to flush.

Grigg

remove the pet cock. take an 1/8th inch welding rod (after stripping it)and rod it in there. it may take a while but you'll get it in all the way. swish it around while working it in. have plenty of water and patiences until there is nothing left to remove. then put some radiator flush in and follow directions on the label. every so often drain the block until no dirt is visible. thats what i had to do to three trucks. sounds like they didnt do a shake and bake before the rebuild

thanks for the suggestions

I tried running wire and cable with a drill through the petcock pork with no success. What are the dangers and benefits of radiator flush. What does it do to head gaskets, hoses, etc?

I meant petcock port not pork(must be hungry, lol)

on my forty i had to actually tap the welding rod(1/2 rod) in with a hammer. i tapped the rod in so far that it was almost flush with the block. i needed my vise grips to be able to pull it back out. when i did nothing came out and the system was full. no off the shelf flushes will touch this stuff. so dont waste your money as a matter of fact spend it on beer that way you got something to drink when your rodding it out. as soon as you get the rod in the hole "beer". when you get a dribble "beer" when you get a flow "beer". it will be easier to flush yourself than the block.

it took me hours. and i dont even drink.

I've always reversed flushed my stuff. Get a tee fitting and take the top heater hose loose from the motor. Get another piece of hose and connect it to where you took off the hose and put the tee between the two.
Connect your garden hose to the tee and take off the radiator cap.
If there is a valve in the heater hose to shut off water to the heater core open it.
With a thermostat in place it will stay closed using cold water and the water will be forced down thru the motor and up the lower rad hose and thru the radiator and out the top, back flushing the system
When the water runs clean your done, pull off the tee and small hose and reconnect the top heater hose.
Don't forget the anti freeze.
Dan

I'm trying muriatic acid and i'm going to see what that does.

The muriatic acid worked!! When I get the engine running I'll send pictures of how I made it work. Woo Hoo!!!!!!!!!!!

did you drink the acid? I thought Dan said to drink beer? glad it worked!

Stoveboltkid ,

I'm really looking forward to the pictures and a bit more info.

Best wishes,

Les

I've used acid to clean some really nasty cooling systems, including a fleet of concrete mixers I maintained. It's important to neutralize the acid by dumping a couple of boxes of baking soda into a fresh water fill after draining the acid wash. Run the soda mix for 10-15 minutes, then flush again with clear water. Refill with a 50/50 antifreeze/water mixture and you're good to go!
Jerry

So just running a whole lot of water several times won't cut it?

After 5 min. of flushing it will be so clean your mother in law could drink it.