The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Rocker Arm Cleaning

This past weekend, I removed the valve cover of my '54 235 in order to repaint it and put the original decals back on the sides (it came out great!)

However, in looking at the rocker arms and springs, everything was covered in a blanket of sludge. Nothing terminal, but in need of cleaning nonetheless.

My question: Can I apply some type of cleaner to the all of this stuff without damaging the oil and lubrication of the engine? I wanted to spray some degreaser all over it, but of course, thought that wouldn't be a good idea.

I would appreciate any ideas and advice y'all might have.

Thanks,

John

John,

There are a whole bunch of oil return holes from head, through the pushrod area to the pan, so anything you use to douche the top end with will end up in the crankcase.

This fact doesn't make it impossible to clean the top end. I have used diesel fuel and a scrub brush to clean the area up. Pull the drain plug and put a pan under it. Scrub and clean to your hearts content.

When you are finished, dump a bunch of clean diesel over the rocker area just as a final flush for the stuff in the pan. Fill the crankcase with oil and change the filter if it has one and you should be on your way.

I have also done this on SBC's with hydraulic lifters, and it has caused no problems. The diesel acts as a mild solvent and has some lubricating qualities as well.

Stuart

Stuart,

I appreciate the quick reply. I was fearful of putting any type of solvent in the crankcase, but your advice makes sense. I guess I just need to make sure that I flush and drain well before refilling with motor oil.

Thanks!

--John

Ah Yes...Diesel
The first,pre mixed,pre made,
Disposable Douche.

Diesel fuel or kerosene also makes a pretty good running cleaner, as long as there's no load placed on the engine while it's in there. Dump in about a quart right before an oil change, and run it at fast idle, no load for about 15 minutes. If you've got a canister-type oil filter, remove the filter element first, no sense cleaning the filter and dumping the dirt back into the engine.

Gulf Oil Co. used to sell an engine cleaner that would actually take carbon deposits out from under piston rings, but it was a "professional-only" product that they only sold to certain shops. No over-the-counter sales of that product at all! The family shop used it back in the 1950's before doing an engine overhaul. It cut down on cleanup after disassembly by at least 50%.
Jerry

Standard Oil had one too....PDQ Engine Cleaner! Use it before a tear down and the dirty work was half done.


Stuart

When I plan on getting an engine running that has been sitiing for some time, I use 3 quarts of ATF (high detergent), and 2 quarts of regular engine oil. I run the engine to operating temperature a few times (no loads). Then I change the oils and filter.

Stuart, Steve, Jerry, & Builder:

Thanks for the great answers to my question, and I'm very glad to know that I can safely clean all that mess out without harming the engine. When I get it done, I'll report back, maybe with some before and after pics.

--John