The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop easiest way to pull a 235 out?

The engine in my wife's 50 3600 has a cracked block due to freezing. The crack goes clear from the front to the back on the drivers side,I plan to weld it up. The best way to get at it is to pull the engine. OR take off the fender, but then i would have stuff in the way.

I've pulled a stovebolt out of my '47 Thriftmaster, that was the worst job i've ever done. Bolts going in both directions at the bellhousing????? I imagine the '50 is set up the same way.

Whats the easiest way to get one of these engines out?

I would pull the whole front clip as one piece then remove the engine and bell housing from the trans,
Scott

Hi Scott, I know you’ve been through this a bunch but I’ve not yet pulled the clip on my ’50 yet so maybe you can tell me if this is all I’m in for.
It looks like there are only about twenty bolts and the front clip will then come off as a unit. The two bolts that mount the core support, the four bolts for the cross braces, and on each side three on the inner skit to cowl, four in the fender to cowl. Did I miss any??
Now of course it goes without saying that it would probably help to have the front bumper off also. And I’ve heard that two men and a couple of strong boys can lift it off, is that correct???? A reply taint limited to Scott, I’d like to here from any of you other guys that have pulled the complete AD front sheet metal.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny,

My recent experiences have been with '54 clips/assemblies (two, last summer), and I do not know if the 47-53 imposes additional considerations.

1-2 bolts for the radiator core support (depending on the support).

8 for the fender braces (I'd get the braces all the way off).

6 for the inner fenders to the firewall.

8 for fenders to the cowl.

Flip a coin about removing the radiator from the core support (6 more bolts? Makes the assembly lighter).

Flip a coin about removing the front bumper (and skirt/apron/shield). If you are going to remove this, I'd remove the 4 bolts holding this "unit" to the frame (keeps you from bumping into the bumper brackets).

Two people can easily take off the assembly and carry it away. It helps to have three people when putting it back on.

Tim

Removing the bumper with brackets attached cuts way down on the hoisting up of the clip for removal as well as all the bending over that is eliminated by being able to stand next to the axle/frame while working there.

I agree that the easiest way to pull the engine on a AD truck would be to remove the front clip as a complete assembly. I'm wondering what the other possible problems arise when the front clip is removed from an old truck that needs engine work. I know that lots of people want to keep their truck in "as is" condition and only do mechanical type repairs. The AD trucks are known for having rust issues in the cowl area. Once things get torn apart how many trucks are going to be able to be put back together and still have the "unmolested" look? I know a person can be careful and use tape to prevent scratches and that sort of thing. If I have to pull an engine on one of my trucks I know I'll be pulling the transmission first, then take the engine out after without removing the front clip. I know its not the easiest, but I know that things will look right when I'm done. Just use caution when getting ready to do a big job like a engine, think things through and know what other areas will turn into a can of worms before you can drive your truck again.

Don

aaw, jeez. This wasnt the answer i wanted to hear. I can pretty much garantee that atleast half of the bolts will break. I wish there was a way to just lift the engine out. I'm going to take the rad. out anyway cuz that froze too.

whats the easiest way to gain access to the bolts connecting the tranny/bellhousing.

wesfab,

It is also possible to easily remove the engine as follows (most bolts in this procedure would not be rusted to the point of breaking):

0. remove and/or disconnect all wires, hoses, lines, linkages etc that are connected to the engine (you have to do this for any removal technique).
1. remove the hood
2. remove the radiator (and radiator housing, if possible - no need to remove the hood)
3. remove the transmission
4. unbolt the motor mounts
5. Lift the engine up (and over the radiator housing, if you have left it on)

The easiest way to gain access to transmission bolts is to crawl under the truck (you will also have to disconnect the drive line/shaft, of course).

Tim

I pulled my
1.transmission
2.bumper and gravel pan
3.hood latch
4.grille (unhooked electric connections for parking lamps and removed)
5.radiator
6.core support
7.unhooked electrical connections on starter and generator
8.unbolted all motor mounts
9.pulled engine with hood and fenders in tack .
see link
engine hoist

If at all possible leave the hood undisturbed as realigning it can be much more work than removing the clip as a unit. If you don't have a nut splitter get one for the fender to cowl bolts and if the cowls are really rotten half the bolts won't be holding anything anyway. Personally I found keeping the engine/bellhousing/tranny as a unit easier to pull/replace.

BowtieTim,
What am I missing? What is holding up the front of your fenders with the core support gone?

Hey Denny,
Sorry so late, real long day today. Anyway, if I remember correctly, you just need to drain the anti-freeze and pull the hoses, pull the wiring in the front clip and unbolt. There's 4 fender to cowl bolts on each side and 3 inner fender to floor bolts on each side. Then unbolt the radiator core support and the 2 rods going from the upper inner fender to the firewall. In this case where they want to pull the engine, I would pull the bumper and splash pan to get the cherry picker as close as possible to the engine. If bolts do break or are just crusty looking, I would go to an auto body supply store and get some of the GM style self centering fender bolts to replace them with. Of course chase or retap the hole either way. I think pulling the clip with the chance of only breaking a few bolts outways the chance of dropping the engine on it or me for that matter,
Scott

The first time I removed mine I took the front clip and hood off.but the next one I just removed the grill and radiator. Left the hood and bumper intact.This was much easier for me.Good Luck. Jim

Well thanks alway glad to hear the voice of experiance guys. I didn't look any more involved than that, just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL