The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Using Soda Blasting

Just heard of soda blasting on TV. It looks good (Won't warp sheet metal, Environmentally friendly). However, I know from experience is that if something is too good to be true it probably is. Contacted a soda blasting company. He is over 2 hours away and will not charge for travel. He charges $150 an hour, a 3 hour min. I know this is way cheaper than acid dipping. Just looking for input (Good, Bad, Tips, Other Ideas).

Thanks in Advance

Does your vehicle have rust??? Current condition will pretty much tell you which way to go. I cannot speak for soda blasting but I have had some plastic media work done and it will get off NOTHING but the paint. I think Soda blasting pretty much the same. If there is much rust I go with sand.
Do a search on soda, plastic, sand blasting and you will find LOTS of stuff to read and many many points why or when one is better than the other....or why its worst.

Cshamel,

I went the soda route, you must be prepared to wash, dry and prime real soon after you soda blast. If you can store the metal parts in a VERY DRY and WARM place you can wait about 2-3 months before priming, but if not prime right away. Look in my link below for what happens if you don't prime, BTW read the notes on each picture.

Jake

This album is when we picked up the cab from Ill.

http://rides.webshots.com/album/414791430bWegiX


This webshots album deals with only soda blasting.

http://rides.webshots.com/album/414823796vWvHlX

This album deals with cleaning up the cab with chemical dipping process bcause my friend did not prime as he was supposd to!

http://rides.webshots.com/album/418859032XlfpAT

It only removes paint and dirt, not rust.

My local soda blaster is about 35 minutes away, and last I checked was about $125 an hour. I have had some aluminum stuff and an industrial machine done, but not any sheet metal. I'm very pleased with the results.

I think for a reasonably rust free truck it is a good idea to get the paint off with the soda blaster because it's easy on the sheet metal. Then the next step would be spot blasting the rust as needed with a sand blaster. Likely your "soda blaster" can do both steps for you.

Grigg

I have everything shot with glass-bead. It's the best of both worlds- cleans up everything good (rust included) and when done by an experienced blaster, will not warp the metal. I have also had plastic media blasting done, but it doesn't quite get the rust as well.

I stay away from soda blasting. It's hard to get paint to stick to the surface afterwards. I stick with sand or glass bead.

Believe me, stay away from soda.

Frank

it's great for antique and vintage aluminum (or really any alloy) motorcycle cases.
blasting w/ walnut shells is also a great media for cases.

Jake,

Were you pleased with the job soda blasting did or do you regret it??

I was very pleased with it, but the cab was not heavily rusted, UNTIL after my EX-friend left it uncoated in South LA. The fine dust coating can be washed off with water then you dry it right away. Work in front of a big high powered blower and or heater if you can until it is good and dry. THEN prime it the same day or next day and leav the fan and or heater on.

WHY WOULD ANYONE PUT WATER ON BARE METAL???? JFC!! If that soda won't blow off with air, just use the glass bead like several of us have suggested.

This video shows some good stuff

http://www.sodablasting.com/