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#480133 12/09/2008 3:27 AM
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Ok this weekend I decided to take my doors off my 53 but 47-49 doors anyway the bottom hinge was really stubborn as i was taking the door off I had to rock it back and forth up and down all over the place finally it broke free now looking at the hinge it is bent outward and slanted I didn't think I was that strong or is it made this way?

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It may be the bottom hinge but one of them does have a bend or twist in them. I would go look at mine to confirm which one has the twist but they are at the body man.
Also one of the hinges will have "half" a hole on the end of it. I think its the top hinge but could be wrong.

There is a great tech tip or article somewhere, about rebuilding these hinges...even has pics.
I ordered new pins, which are overzized a little, and redrilled my holes, blasted and primed them and they look great. The little horseshoe door checks will make you scratch your head a little bit till you figue them out and then you do this... dang grin

Edit: You'll notice only the top hinges have the doorchecks.

Last edited by Achipmunk; 12/09/2008 3:50 AM.

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Achipmunk #480200 12/09/2008 5:06 AM
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now see both of my upper and lower had a half hole in them

Achipmunk #480201 12/09/2008 5:07 AM
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Rusty/ Alvin,
it's the bottom that has a slight twist.
this may help you .... A LOT. it's from Brian Martin
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...s&topic=0&Search=true#Post328064 .

my hinges:
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=7A-1.jpg
I did NOT want to go oversize if I could avoid it so I figured out how to fix it my way. i had to weld up the oblonged hole on the pass. top as the original pin slipped UPWARD an 1/8''. this caused that hole to go egg-shape. the restore was to tig the OB side of the hole and carefully re-drill using a smaller size and ream to fit the original pin location straight. the top of each hole has to be just so because the pin is serrated to hold the pin tight in situ. you could if the top is slightly oversized to braze it and the serrated top of the pin would have a snug fit. I used my air die-gringer w/ a 1/4'' rod, the rod end is slit so i can place a length of 1'' sandpaper and spin it to just clean up the rusty dust inside each long hinge hole. BOY it sure seems like nobody ever used any kind of spray grease in any of OUR hinges, Chevy did allow for this but everyone forgets and it's so simple to lube them. I cleaned all the lube holes (for future lithium grease) when i was done & used a bit of anti-sieze and heavy grease as first lube. also cleaned the rust off the old pins on my lathe and gave them a polish. they all turned out super. sorry i didn't take more photos, must have been out of film. (i still have a 35mm camera). pix

Last edited by carolines truck; 12/09/2008 6:34 AM.

Jim & Caroline
The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense."
Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe

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There is no way you are going to bend those hinge straps removing your door. To do that you're going to need a torch and a BFH.

BTW, rebuilding those hinges is VERY easy once you get the old pins out... THAT can be very difficult.


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Czechman #481135 12/11/2008 9:04 PM
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ya just hav'ta twist and rotate the hinges and PULL OUT

they DO come out.


Jim & Caroline
The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense."
Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe

Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE
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Squirt a lot of penetrating oil inside the hinge pockets in the door to ease the removal of the door. You'll bend the door or bend the hinge pillar before you do any damage to the hinge itself.


Moderated by  klhansen 

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