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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,196 Posts1,057,393 Members48,471 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 13 | Well it has come down to just that, I have a 1958 Chevrolet Apache 32 (3/4 ton). I found her in a field in Coloma, Ca. its got "Irrigation pump co. Columbus Nebraska" written on the doors and brody knob. it came out of a field, wich cranked when i first got to it. The 235 in it is still good, looks rebuilt not too many miles ago, same with the trans, it shifts fine when rolling. They both need to be cleaned up and are both original but I also have an instructor at my school that is more than likely to give me a 327 short block and perhaps even sell me the heads at a decent price. I was told a T5 will bolt right up and all i need is a bracket. So therein lies my decision. Original or new power? I want to keep the truck as original as possible but at the same time be able to at least drive it short distances on the Interstate. I was also told the 235/4 speed is relatively slow and has a low cruising speed. Any input will be greatly appreciated, Thanks for reading. - Green bolt | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 239 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 239 | Keep the 235 and granny 4, upgrade the rearend to a 3.55 or so. This was done to my truck previous to my buying it and it goes down the highway much nicer than my last one with a 4.11.
Devin
If you can't hose it out it ain't a truck
55 3100 63 Corvair Monza 64 El Camino 72 240Z 01 Suburban
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 610 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 610 | Keep the 235, bolt the T5 up to the 235 and change out the rear with something that will make it more highway friendly. If he still gives you the 327, sell it and use it to fund the truck.
I don't mind V8's infact when the 235 that is in my truck does quit (if it ever does) It will definitly get a more up-to-date drivetrain. But for now, The inline 6 has grown on me. I think it is certainly different, as you don't see that many in these trucks anymore. And I think the reason for that is not because these motors are not up to the job (far from) but more that its cheaper to swap out or rebuild say a 350 v8 than a non running inline 6.
I got my 52 about a year ago, the inline 6 that was in it, as well as the entire drivetrain, was rebuilt prior to the previous owner having to sell the truck, so right now, its also cheaper for me to keep the 235. As well as I don't have the space and equipment to do a engine swap either.
Its your truck and as most would say, do what makes YOU happy and what works best for YOU, not everyone else.
A saying I wish they would put on a shirt: "Ain't no crime, Runnin' Inline"
Last edited by drummin52; 12/05/2008 1:32 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 | Another vote for the 235!!!! If you've got a reasonably decent running 235 I'd keep it. The sm420 isn't slow.....the final ratio is 1:1, like most non-od transmissions....it's just that you don't have a synchronized 1st (Granny) gear so you're basically running a 3 speed. If you're planning on running at highway speeds, the easiest and least expensive conversion is to an S10 .72 T5 transmission. A few simple modifications will let you bolt it up directly (no adaptor plate needed) to the 235 and you'll have a truck that will cruise. Of course, you'll need to upgrade the brakes and make sure your tires, shocks and suspension are in good shape. Even if your 3/4 ton diff R&P numbers are high, the .72 OD will bring down your rpms and make driving your truck a real pleasure. Just for kicks.....run your numbers through the following RPM calculator and bear in mind the stockish 235 makes it's torque in the 1600-2400 rpm range, with the optimum being between 2000 and 2400. I prefer the lower formula. http://csgnetwork.com/multirpmcalc.htmlDave | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 1,426 ODSS President | | ODSS President Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 1,426 | Go with the 235 is my vote. You have a 3.90 rear which is a perfect platform for an overdrive. My '49 is a daily driver (see below) I pass people on the highway daily, cruise @ 72 mph, 2100 rpm's. Go this route and you'll be thanking yourself. My overdrive is .70 so the math .70 X 3.90 = 2.73 perfect for cruising.
~ Cosmo 1949 Chevy Half Ton Rocinante, like Don Quixote, he is awkward, past his prime, and engaged in a task beyond his capacities. "...my good horse Rocinante, mine eternal and inseparable companion in all my journeys and courses." ...Don Quixote, Cervantes "If you come to a fork in the road, take it."...Yogi Berra "Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength." ...Eric Hoffer
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 | "I have a 1958 Chevrolet Apache 32 (3/4 ton)"
I'm not a Task Force guy, but I think a 32 is a half ton long box. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 13 | Well that deffinatly settles that problem! thanks for all the advice guys! greatly appreciated! oh and ghostrider you are probably right about it being a 1/2 ton, I was just told it was a 3/4 because of its industrial title and 4 speed, but obviously being green to the whole stove-bolt world I could very easily be wrong, all i know is that it was a fleet side and some where down the line became a step side. but it is deffinatly a short bed because the frame looks much too short for a long bed unless the bed hangs over the frame rails a foot or two? not sure, but any how, Thanks a 1/2 ton guys! | | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | A couple of thoughts...
First, with the right rear end ratio there is no reason a 235 won't run your truck down the road at highway speeds, provided everything is in reasonable condition.
Second, you can tell a 1/2-ton from a 3/4- or 1-ton by the number of lug nuts at each corner. Six means 1/2-ton. Eight is a 3/4- or 1-ton.
Third, a 283 was an option in a '58, so your 327 could look stock in that truck with a little work to find the right parts.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 | Apache 32 = 1/2 ton longbed | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 725 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 725 | The '58 1/2 ton had two rear end ratio options, 3.90:1 and 4.11:1. The 3.90 is the most common. You'll have to check to see which one you have. The S-10 T-5s are commonly .72 or .78 OD, but there are a number of other ratios. Check the tech tips for a lot more T-5 info. Having said that, the 235, T-5, stock rear end seems to be a good combo to me.
best wishes,
Les | | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 2,423 Former Workshop Owner | | Former Workshop Owner Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 2,423 | OldSub is correct, 6 bolts (lug nuts) for a 1/2 ton, and 8 for a 3/4 or 1 ton. Measure the distance between the front and rear axles (wheelbase) that will tell you whether it's a short or long bed truck. A long bed will be 123 inches axle to axle.
John
~ J Lucas 2006 GMC Envoy 4.2 I6 2023 Ram 2500/Cumins 6.7 I6 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Wife’s) 2002 Silverado 2500 Gas 6.0 1941 Chevy 1/2-Ton 1942 Chevy 1.5-Ton SWBIn the Gallery My Flicker Photos! | | | | | Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 1,382 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 1,382 | I say keep the 235 and install a T-5 and maybe find a better gear for the rearend,I think you can use the center section from up to the mid 60s but I am not certain the ratios will be any better but someone should know if any taller gears were available in the later trucks. Jeff | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | If it is a 1/2 ton, which a 32 would be, there's only 3 choices that were used, the std. 3.90, and the optional 4.11 and 3.38. Most likely, though, it will have the 3.90. Going with the T 5 swap will make highway driving much better, and also a taller tire will help, too. I'm running a 3 speed w/Borg Warner overdrive and a 30" tire, and run comfortably at highway speeds at about 2300 rpm.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 4,095 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 4,095 | i have my 54-3100-235 for 25 years and it has not let me down yet. i have a t-5 with 2.73 rearend but a 3.55 would be better and i change the way i use it i will go with 3.23 or higher gears. the 2.73 nova rearend does great here in Indiana. Ron
Ron, The Computer Greek I love therefore I am.1954 3100 Chevy truckIn the Gallery 2017 Buick Encore See more pix1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 1,382 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 1,382 | I have a 2.79 gears in my 37 with a T-5 but I noticed a drop in gas mileage so I will be going with 3.25 to 3.55 gears in the future. Jeff | | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 4,095 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 4,095 | jeff ogden, i have 2.73 and i have been toying with idea of a ratio change. why do you think going to a higher numerical will increase mileage. my loafs along at 1600 rpm in 5th gear. i am just curious?????? oh btw i get 16 mpg around town and 19 on secondary roads. have not taken on an interstate trip since overhaul. i also have dual carbs and flowmaster exhaust. ron
Ron, The Computer Greek I love therefore I am.1954 3100 Chevy truckIn the Gallery 2017 Buick Encore See more pix1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 1,382 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 1,382 | I never really checked the mileage before the changes but it seems to be using more since the T-5 and rear end swap,I do know that the RPMs are lower then its sweet spot and probably lugging the motor and it could also be the crappy gas too. I was told to put a stiffer spring in the power valve in the carb so I will do that before driving it next spring and see what happens. Jeff | | |
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