The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Question about JC's premade '54 Chevy brake lines.

Boy, That's a relief. I would probably have to replace at least the front two anyway and probably both of the back, when I loosened the lines there was a bunch of gunk in them. I was thinking that I had made a bad mistake!!!! So I'd have to get the cylinder bolts loose, and then ground off the little bit of bleeder screw still there off?

Have you been to the site with the manual on your brakes yet?
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1954truck/54ctsm0501.html

To get the cylinders out, all you need to remove are the 2 retaining bolts and the lines. The bleeder doesn't attach to the backing plate, and will come out with the cylinder.

Hey guys, we don't want Jordan riding around on "iffy" brakes. I'll raise my ante to $10 bucks to help him out .....any others out there?? It'd make him a nice Christmas present from all us "old" bolters
Maybe we can get Ron to get them from Auto Zone and give Jordan his discount?!!
What you say guys. I'd be willing to mail Ron my money. I met him in Kansas and think he can be trusted

EDIT: I'm talking about getting him some Wheel cylinders.

Neilroy, I have the actual manual, and I've looked through the manual in almost every section but didn't think to look yet, was too concerned thinking that I had ruined the backing plate, I was for some reason thinking that it was threaded. So it seems that I will have my brother help me get it out. Thanks Alvin, your generosity and everyone else's never ceases to amaze me.

I don't remember is this the front or back brakes? Maybe there is someone out there that has swapped out there brakes that might have some spare parts. I will be swapping out the front for disk and rear end on my 52' after Christmas. Let me know if you need some of the parts. My rear brake lines look like they rusted through 20 years ago and the line was plugged off. I am sure the cylinders are crap but there are probably some usable parts.

The left front is the one that twisted off. I got one of the bleeder screws loose on the rear, I'm having trouble on the other rear one though. I don't know about the other front one either, after the one twisted off I just figured I'd wait and not mess with it until I got some help.

It looks like the cylinders may have changed in 53 I will have to do some research. The wheel cylinders don't cost to much.

The 1951-54 1/2 ton rear wheel cylinders are the same.

I was wondering about that too. Don't know how much I'm going to be doing though, this darn weather made it start snowing out there.

Jordan,

If you are still in this situation in early January, contact me and I will have time to see if I have a decent set of rear cylinders (I have several used sets). I'd ship them to you as a Hogmanay gift.

Tim

Thanks. From what came out of the hoses I'm betting that a lot of gunk has sat in the wheel cylinders for 15+ years as its last plates were '88. That's what makes me think that at least one of them are trash.

Well, that was easy enough. After getting on three pairs of pants and the same number of socks along with my heavy coat, I went out and put the little propane torch on one of them for a couple minutes, wacked it with a hammer, and put a ratchet on it. Came loose very easily, and the second one didn't even need the torch. Now I just need a place where I can safely jack it up and take it off.

new wheel cylinders are available thru auto zone for about $38.00 apiece. as far a using my discount i have to be there and jordan lives about 3hrs from me so not possible. ron

I think Alvin wants to send the money to you and have you buy them. Plus, there's something about an Autozone discount on the 13th/14th.

Oh, I got both of the front wheel cylinders loosened. So, if I get some user friendly instructions(the manual says to use tool number blah) I'd be able to take them off and look them over. I know how to get the wheel/drum off but after that I don't know what I'm getting into as far as taking something off.

Clean the bolts that hold the wheel cylinder in, put a drop of oil on them and put them back in before you take the drum off. You don't want the springs to come off flying. You don't have to tighten them to tight. Once you get the drum off take a picture so you can get it all back together. I haven't even looked at the brakes on mine yet since they are getting replaced. It is usually just a matter of getting the springs and clips that hold the shoes in off and it pretty much all falls apart. The springs pull the two shoes together against the cylinder If the cylinder is loose when you take off the drum there is a chance that it will pull forward enough for things to come apart before you want them to. Make sure that you have real jack stands under the front no working with just the jack or concrete blocks holding it up. I will look at my 52 manual and see what tools it is talking about. The auto parts places have tools to remove the springs.

There really isn't any danger of the springs comming out on that design brake, the return springs anchor the a pin above the wheel cylinder, which also acts as the stop for the upper part of the shoes. The wheel cylinder can actually be completely removed without taking the shoes off.
For removing the springs, you'll need pliers like these (pic only for illustration, the flaps will have them for much less). The anchor springs that actually hold the shoes to the backing plate can be removed with regular pliers.

I guess I should have looked at the book. Thanks for clearing that up. Jack it up pull the drum an see what it looks like.

I suppose channel locks or vise grips won't help me out this time, may be able to borrow some of those without having to rent or buy any.

did you know if you rent at auto zone when you take them back you get your deposit back//

I remembered you or someone saying something about that but wasn't sure.

Well, I pulled the drum off to freshen my memory of what it looks like. I'm kind of concerned about the shoes, they look different but both seem like they don't have any material left, like bare metal. Of course, I've never seen a brake shoe that close before and certainly have never felt one. One is flat all the way across and the other has about a half inch groove across it in the middle??? Didn't think it was supposed to be like that. Anyway, I hope to get the cylinder(s) off and take a look at/in them.

Post a picture and someone will tell you what you need to do next.

Got up some pictures. I don't think there is very much(always some) danger of the truck falling, it has a jack and also a jack stand under it. Click here, here, here, and here.

OOOOOOK, as the weather is cool right now and brakes are sooo important I think you should take it slooow and easy. I figure a full brake job is in works. I mean new shoes, cylinders, and getting the drums turned.
Soooo, do ONE side at a time. That will give you the other side for a reference until you get the hang of it.
I'd disassemble one side, clean and put a coat of paint on the springs ect....Make sure the adjusting wheel is clean and turning free.
I really can't tell from the picture but if the lining on the shoes look thin then they must be replaced. If they are in pretty good shape that would mean the linings should have at least 1/8" thickness. Anything less replace them.
The drums should be turned unless they have been "turned" so many times they are to thin. In that case maybe one of us bolters can come up with a good used one.

Keep us posted....help is on the way!!!

EDIT: you will notice that the lining on the shoes differ just a bit. The lining on the shoe that goes toward the front will have a little less (shorter) lining on it. The lining on the rear of the set up will have the longer lining on the shoe. Take a look and you will see what I'm talking about unless someone put them on wrong before you got it.
Also be sure to save your old shoes as most places will want them for "cores". If postage wasn't so much I'd tell you to box the stuff up and send it to me and I would blast it and paint it for you.

Achipmunk, the drums look fine, I can post a picture if you want to see them, no grooves or anything, looks like the brakes were taken good care of before someone drained them and the 20 years of setting made everything gum up. The shoes probably do need replaced, I looked again and it is worn down toward the middle on one. I do agree very much so that the wheel cylinders need replaced. If I can't borrow or rent one from someone or Autozone, I found a brake spring tool from Napa for only $8. The brake adjuster turns freely. I've got some paint and I suppose that when the time comes I'll disassemble and paint the stuff.

Some brake shoes, especially factory ones, have a groove like that. But I'm in agreement with Achipmunk, new shoes=cheap insurance. If you have a shop close by, have them measure the drums (requires a special gauge) to ensure they are machinable (should measure roughly 11"-11.020) and have them trued up. Don't forget to put some brake lube on the pivot points, brake shoe lands, and the adjuster threads. You should be able to get a small tube or 2 at the flaps, they may even throw it in for free if you get all your parts from them. don't use regular grease, it can melt and ruin the new friction. Personally, I like to use Permatex synthetic brake lube (green tube), however, a good moly base antiseize or silicone lube will work also. If you do use 'Zone for the parts, they will have the permatex stuff.

Thanks Longbox55. Looks like it's going to be a while until I get the parts, $18 a piece for the front from Rock Auto, plus however much brake shoes cost. But, Christmas is coming and if I'm lucky I'll get enough to cover part of the brake costs, and with you guys being generous on brake parts, it will at least save me $70-$80 on rear cylinders, so that would be $70-$80 more to spend on shoes/front cylinders, and the all important cotter pins.

Jordan,

Your brakes are the most important safety feature on your truck (the steering assembly is next in line). They money you spend on this system is well spent.

If your brake parts are rusted out badly, most likely the hardware is also in bad shape. Here is a hardware kit for two wheels. It says that the kit includes the return springs but I do not see them in the picture. This is an expensive kit but I have not seen the parts sold by other companies. Maybe someone will post a better source.

Tim

Actually, that's about the average price for a brake hardware kit for 1 axle. I took a look, didn't see any listings for the hardware kit from any of the flaps sites. I do know that many of the springs are used on later trucks (like the hold down springs), so you may be able to match them up at he flaps if they can't get a kit.

That doesn't seem too bad, and yes I know it is the most important thing on the truck.

Hey guys, I've been looking at Rock Auto's wheel cylinders at the above link and there are wheel cylinders that are only $3.00 or $6.77. That doesn't make sense to me. Especially when the 1/2 ton ones are $20 and this is supposed to be for a 1 ton. My mom said that she could buy me new front wheel cylinders if I didn't want any Christmas money(would have went on them anyway). After I get wheel cylinders I'll bleed the brakes so that I at least have some brakes to stop, then I'll get some new shoes and anything else that I may need as the money comes and then it's off for body work sometime next March. Sound like a good plan? I won't be able to even get out of the yard until body work is done, I just want to be able to stop. So far I've got a master cylinder that thankfully works and a spare one if it doesn't, lines, and wheel hoses, next on the list is wheel cylinders and then shoes.

I've found many parts here

http://www.partsamerica.com/default.aspx

This is Parts America which is owned by Advance Auto Parts Store. I have found many parts here that is NOT listed in their computer at the store. I just take the numbers into the store and have them confirm the price and availablity of the parts. Some time the parts are actualy cheaper than the price shown. PLUS they usually get them overnight and there is NO SHIPPING.

And Jordan, even though the drums may look good they really should be turned to give you a good smooth stop.
Also, I "think" the brake hardware kits are the same for several years. Maybe up till 1962 but I have not confirmed that. I know Cletis reminded me back some time agon.

Just another place to check for parts/prices and save some shipping. I have purchased many parts that were listed on Parts America for my 52 panel and have not been disappointed yet. Heck, my brake shoes were even the riveted shoes!

Thanks Alvin, do you think it would be okay to wait a while to get it done? Also, do you have an idea on how much it costs?

jdl: if your talking about turning the drums ask around town. Around here SOME guys charge up to $15 a drum. I have a friend who runs a garage and turns mine for $5 each.

Some Flaps stores use to do it but Advance quit several years ago and Auto Zone also quite a few years back in my area. Right now the only flaps around here that turns drums/rotors is the O"Rielly's who is the new store in town. They charge $7.50 each. Most garages now turn their own. If you can get to be friends with someone they may help you out.....or just go ask the "manager" if he has anything you can do to get your drums turned. He may need the floor swept or bathroom cleaned. Heck, don't be bashful. Let them know you don't want something for nothing and that your willing to work a weekend or evening or two for it. I think it'll work.

I don't know what I'd do without you guys here.

Hey Alvin, I have the front two off, I need to get the drums off of the back but can't figure out how to get them off. I looked around in the manual and it said "remove set screws, if used," That's all I could find.

Well, I did some searching and came up with some results. I understand the concept that the drum basically just sets over the shoes and only screws(if any) and the wheel holds them on. I tried to get a screw driver in to adjust the shoes in(which way, up or down?) but I don't even know if I'm getting it to adjust. After that the only thing I can gather is that you need a big hammer.

jordan, sometimes you can just tap them with a hammer, on the face and then on the back lip, to loosen them up and then pull them straight off. I have took a couple screw drivers and put between the drum and backing plate and it helps pry them off.

If any screws are in the drums you can see them looking straight at the drum. They will be recessed into the face of the drum so when the wheel is on it will be a smooth surface. IF you have those screws you will probably have to soak them real good. They are known to be TIGHT.....unless you have an impact screwdriver to use. (I doubt you having one of those)Be careful if you do not have a BIG enough screwdriver because if you "waller" out the screw you will have to drill it out!! Just a word of caution.

To loosen, or "back off" the brake shoes I think you put the brake spoon, or screwdriver if that is what you use, and pull down on it. You should be able to get one "click" or one tooth at a time. Just remember, if the drum gets tight and won't turn then you are adjusting it the wrong way! Simply go the other way!

** if the drums have no "grooves" worn in them the drums should come off fairly easy with a little prying.

OOOK, I got to go ride the school bus and when I get back I expect a full report on how easy the drums came off and be careful.