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#479108 12/06/2008 5:23 AM
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New Guy
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Hello Fellow bolters, I come to you in need once more! I have a 58 Apache, I have the entire thing stripped with the exception of the cab, and the reason why is because the steering box output shaft that runs through the frame to the pitman arm can not be removed, reason why is i cant get the dang pitman arm to come off the shaft! I have tried everything from a puller to pry bars and everything in between. I want to heat it with a torch but it has not yet gotten to that point. Please Help!


Shovel all the coal in, gotta keep it rollin! .
1958 Chevrolet Apache "32"
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'Bolter
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Hy Torque Wrench, they can be on there really tight, but it will come off with a big enough puller. One trick is to give the puller screw a rap with a sledge when you have it tight, be careful they can come flying off when they come loose, hope that helps.

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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have you tried a proper pitman puller? some penetrant and a bit of presuasion with a hammer while the puller is tensioned should do it, but heat could help too

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
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Shop Shark
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You need a pitman arm puller and heat.

Here's a picture of the puller.


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I have found this one works great when the cheap ones fail:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...5&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
Sometimes they can be really tight, a good puller to put tension on it and a sharp blow with a big hammer usually works.
Hold off on the heat till nothing else works, it'll be better for your steering gear box to not use heat.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
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Grigg #479147 12/06/2008 10:01 AM
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Extreme Gabster
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The way I like to pull pitman arms is to put a bunch of tension on the puller and then whack side of the "eye" of the pitman arm with a big hammer. This shocks the tapered joint loose pretty well. It also works great for tapered tie rod ends, often times you don't even need a pickle fork. If you imagine the joint like a bolt passing through the nut, you would be whacking one of the flats on the nut.

Leave the nut threaded on a few turns so your stuff doesn't go flying across the garage.


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Shop Shark
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one tip yes use the puller and smack the Pittman arm with a 3 lb hammer , but hold another 3 lb hammer on the other side, kinda backs it up . this work's for me .

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New Guy
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Thanks guys! im sure when i get enough time in the garage it will work. hopefully we dont get any fliers haha.


Shovel all the coal in, gotta keep it rollin! .
1958 Chevrolet Apache "32"
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'Bolter
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I have used this in pitman arms. It works on a lot of other things too. http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/OTC-4518-p-390.html

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Shop Shark
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Pitman arm puller (the bell type), some heat, and knock the flaming dog s--t out of the puller bolt with a 5 pound sledge should do it. Wear safety goggles and stand to the side of the puller.


I didn't do it, no one saw me do it, you can't prove anything! "Bart Simpson"
Toyvo #479470 12/07/2008 4:35 AM
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some '''flaps'''' (parts stores) lend pullers
You need a pitman arm puller and heat.

put anti-sieze on the splines when returning the pitman arm part to the splines

now that you're this far think about an upgrade.
TIP:: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/draglink_adjustable.html

i lived in sac and had this done at a four wheel drive shop over by arden way frontage road off bus80

Last edited by carolines truck; 12/09/2008 4:26 PM.

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I was refered to this tool and I thought for sure Id break it but it held up and pulled the pitman arm right off. No heat, but it did take a sledge to twist the wrench and spin it off.

Jeff


My 1953 Chevrolet
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