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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 8
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New Guy
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Joined: Nov 2008
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I have a 66 C60 with 8.25x20 bud rims smooth tread not bald.I got stuck a few times(good thing for my loging winch on my old F#$% tractor).I traded for 4 9.00x20 studed snows with 2 fronts all brand new but on daton rims.this is what i would like to know.#1 what is the purpose of the daton style rim oposed to the bud wheels.#2 witch is better for halling dirt in a dump truck and fire wood over a loging road and down the road.#3 would it be cheeper to swap over to daton hubs than have 12 tires removed and then 6 mounted because i can find more daton rims already mounted.#4 will these 9.00 fit onto 8.25 rims?I also have i think what you call 2 pice rims but thay look like 3 pice rims to me 1 inner half 1 outer half 1 locking ring,so far nobody want to touch them.Does anybody have any ideas or hints on this?

Joined: Sep 2006
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First off I don't think you would benefit from the switch to Dayton style wheels. As far as getting tires swapped if you have a visible removable ring one ore two piece they are not widow makers the widow makers come apart in the middle and will look the same at either bead seat. Yes some shops don't like doing tube type wheels of any kind but you shouldn't have any trouble if you go to a shop that dose a lot of big truck tires as there are still a lot of tube type tires running up and down the highways. I think the problem with putting 9.00 20s on your rims will be that the wheels aren’t wide enough but it is worth checking in to ask at the tire shop you find to do the work. Next if they fit the wheels and clear the fenders they will help with top end speed by rising your effective gear ratio with a taller tire. Last but not least there is a lot of info here in the tech tips on tires and wheels so check it out.
I have a 64 GMC I work the truck so I bit the bullet and switched too 10.00X22.5 tubeless wheels and tires.
How far you go and what you spend will depend entirely on a combination of how you plan to use the truck and what you are willing to spend. I found that with the tube type tires I was having a lot of flat repairs they just seemed as if they were magnets for nails, screws and such. Along with the fact that a simple flat repair will cost you double on a tube type tire and wheel and the down time the switch to tubeless was well worth it to me even with increased usage I went from a flat repair every week or two to not a one in over a year.


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Grant from Roy, Washington
1956 6100 Chevy Dump Truck in the Gallery
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'Bolter
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Hy Brent E, you asked which wheels are "better", Daytons were touted as being the heavy duty wheel, with big HEAVY cast spokes and detachable rims, they are trickier to install properly, especially the rears, they have more pieces to put together. Budd wheels were the over the road wheel, easier to work with, and lighter. In some cases the switch from Budds to Daytons will require a change of brake drums or hubs or both, hope that helps.

Joined: Aug 2003
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8.25's were mounted on both 6.0" wheels and 6.5" wheels, Budd or Dayton. 6.5 was recommended. 9.00's were mounted on 6.5" or 7.0" with 7.0 recommended. The alternate doesn't allow the sidewalls to be straight and might have a slight negative effect on tire durability, but a lot of trucks used them and you shouldn't have any problem. Go ahead and remount the tires on the Budd wheels. In the long run, they're easier and faster to work with. As I've stated before, Daytons were used east of the Mississippi and Budds were used west of the Mississippi. There aren't too many people left that know how to mount the wheels on Daytons.


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I ran Dayton wheels for about 30 years. They are actually lighter. We haul bulk commodities and that was a plus. Also, they are much easier to change on the side of the road. A lug wrench and a 30" bar will turn the 1 1/4 wrench size nuts on the 3/4" stud where the outer nut on a Budd is often impossible to turn on the side of the road. Also the inner nut has a habit of coming loose and causing the wheel to crack between the bolt holes. When an inner stud breaks, you have to pull the hub to replace it. Daytons are much more forgiving when run over curbs, etc. and that is why they are still used on garbage trucks. A tire mounted on a Budd wheel is much heavier than a tire mounted on an open center wheel which makes it easier to handle. Mounting is actually simple. I can teach someone in less than 5 minutes if they are willing to listen. We phased out open center wheels in favor of hub piloted wheels beginning about 15 years ago. We use all aluminum wheels which makes them about the same weight as an open center wheel. The main reason for the switch was that Daytons use an inboard brake drum. Outboard drums became popular around 1990 and are standard now on Budd and hub piloted. I changed many a truck from Budd to Dayton. I would still do it on an old truck provided I could find Dayton hubs and drums reasonable. The hub and drum will have to be changed. Dayton wheels would be much easier to change and handle for a do it your selfer.

Last edited by crenwelge; 11/08/2008 7:20 PM.
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I like the Dayton's also, having run them for many years and have found them quick to change when the tire is flat. You can change them quickly with hand wrenches or air. Air wrenches are a must when changing Budd's. We also now run mainly hub piloted wheels which are easy to change. Brake repair is so much easier with hub piloted wheels since the drum slides over the hub so the wheel seals and bearings are not disturbed when replacing the linings.
JAMES


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