The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Moisture Problems in Sand Blast Cabinet

I am having some problems with moisture build up in my sand blast cabinet after using for a while. I have two air dry systems right after my 60 gallon compressor. I drain the moisture out of both dryers and air compressor daily. Someone told me that I need to add another drier after my long air hose and just before the blast cabinet. The theory was that as the air cools in the long hose, the moisture condenses and ends up plugging up my blast gun with damp media. Looking for several different ideas that I can also use on air tools, paint guns,etc. I currently use a small drier cartridge on my paint gun, but would rather remove as much moisture as possible before getting to paint gun, DA sanders, etc. And last but not least is that I do not want to invest a fortune in accomplishing this. Right now I do not have a air dry system using dessicant so could use advice on different types of systems also. Thanks
Willie

How long is the run from your compressor to your blast cabinet?

What type of pipe are you using between your compressor and your blast cabinet?

I have 50 foot of 3/8 air hose on a reel coupled to the compressor right after the two air dryers. I try to keep most of the hose off of the floor and only roll out as much as needed. Usually I will have 15-20 foot of hose pulled off of the reel when attached to my blast cabinet. The hose is the normal run of the mill air hose you can buy at Lowes, Sears, etc

If you ran 1/2" black steel pipe from one of the air dryers at the compressor to the blast cabinet, and use the "up-and-then-down" take-off at the cabinet end of the pipe, much of the moisture will condense in the pipe and not make it into the down pipe to the cabinet. You could still put the other moisture trap near the blaster.

This set up works fine for me. I drain a lot of water out of the drain pipe but get no clogging in my cabinet.

Tim you come up with some of the most bizarre things.

Thanks for sharing!

Wow! The explanation and attached diagram really shows me what I have been doing wrong which is about everything. My driers are too close to the compressor and the rubber air hose is not letting the air cool down to help with moisture. I definitely will run some black pipe using the diagram and other suggestions.
THANKS!!!! Willie

Although we have a regrigerated air dryer in our system, we have a T coupling at every air chuck and a 6" nipple going down with a petcock at the end. The same principle as the letter "v"in TC's diagram.

Thanks for the input. I am currently in process of getting the black pipe and components to put a system in place like the diagram provided by tclederman. I have gotten similar info from a number of sources that tell me that you have to give the hot air from the compressor time to cool so the water vapor condenses before it gets to the in line dryer. Otherwise the water vapor passes right through the system and out through your tools. Thanks to all!! I will let you know how it works

Hey guys, that's not my diagram, it is found on the TP Tools & Equipment website.. Every aspect of that supply-pipe configuration helps to minimize moisture at the tool. In particular, the "R"/"E" riser at the top and the "T"/"R" riser to the tool on the down pipe are really helpful.

Willie in order to keep your air tools Ratchets,Grinders etc. from rusting the air motors is to install a in line air oiler this keeps the motors from waring out by providing a fine mist of oil. Note you will have to have two air hoses one for Air Tools & one for the blast cabinet and paint guns. You can insulate the main lines to the blast cabinet. They make a automatic dewatering-oiling unit that you can buy from your air compressor supplier. We had them in conjuction with our driers on the Sullair units and they worked out very well.
62Blue
Don

Guys-Thanks for the clarification about diagram origin and extra hints for oilers. One of the best things about this website is all of the great help you can count on with any problem.

A quick update after adding about 30 feet of 3/4 inch black iron pipe with two different drop pipes with valves for moisture collection. I added my current two driers on risers after the black iron pipe and before my 50 air hose that is on a reel. I worked for about 45 minutes yesterday cleaning things in the sand blast cabinet with no moisture problems. The humidity was pretty low and not a lot of moisture drained from the driers or collection system. I sloped all pipe for good drainage with about 4 inches per 10 foot section slope. I am curious to see how well it works when we get a good old sticky southeast Missouri high humidity day. At present, it looks as if the cool down- condensation black pipe method is working well. Thanks for everyones help.
Willie

Good work (and, fast work), Willie,

Thanks for posting the update - a first-hand result is much better than opinions and speculation.

The condensing aspect of metal pipe is one of several reasons why metal pipe is better than plastic pipe for this application (there was a long discussion about this a year or so ago).

Blast-Away

Tim