The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Dual Fenton Intake question

Hey fellas,
do I need a plate to block off the opening on the bottom of my Fenton dual intake manifold?? I will have fenton dual exaust manifolds as well.
If I need the plate...where do I get one? THANKS (235cui '57)

Johnnyrock70,

A block off plate is a nice finishing touch, but you don't need one. That cavity is sealed from any vacuum or engine internal.

Many people recommend plumbing the manifold for either water heat or exhaust heat...that is what the area is intended for.

Stuart

Hi You should plumb two tubes from the ports on your fentons to a plate under the intake. This is needed for heat to help with off idle stumble. The gas tends to pool and cause a stumble the heat helps with this. Check Ebay search fenton and you will find kits for your intake. Mel

An alternative to the hot gas method is the water heat method. A plate is fabricated to fit the cavity and plumbed into the engine cooling system.

I've heard arguments in favor of each. Some say with the exhaust set-up, since exhaust is coming into both ports, there is no flow. Thus, they say it would be slow to heat.

Then there are those who say the coolant method is slowest. The engine has to get the water hot enough to open the thermostat before there is any hot flow to the manifold.

Who wants to defend either position?

I recently installed an exhaust heat plate and plumbing to mine, Offy intake and Fentons. I can safely tell you it definetly flows the gasses and heats up very fast. About the only real problem I have is that it does leak a bit past the core plugs in the intake, hate to think how bad that would be with water heat. Either way, I would suggest heli-arcing some plates over any core plugs rather than rely on the plugs as is. Not sure what I'm going to do with mine, hate to take it all apart!

The Fenton intake has no plugs and should hold water if you choose that route.

i had mine with exhaust setup first and it plugged up don't don't know if it would have caused a problem because the mechanic wanted to change to water. i got my plate from langdon's.

It would be more helpful if people indicate the brand of intake manifold that they are referring to.

The Fenton and Offenhauser intakes have a few significant differences, one of which is mentioned above.

Another difference could be important relative to the type of heating plate one obtains. A flat inside/upside-surface on the "heat plate" is preferred on an Offenhauser but makes little difference on a Fenton intake.

The Fenton intake does not have journals that allow gas/water to flow from one-side-to-the-other-side of the intake, so it does not matter if the plate is flat on the inside. Because of this, I see no benefit from running water; exhaust gas heat would be just as affective (and, easier to plumb and no worries about future problems with long lines). Exhaust-gas or water, heat is moving through conduction not flowing throughout the manifold.

The Offenhauser has a divider ridge that should mate against the heat plate - this allow true flow. This intake benefits from using water flow (as long as you seal the plugs, which need to be sealed for exhaust-gas, too). Exhaust-gas (from Fenton headers, for example) would not truly flow in this set-up; however, coolant water coming in one side and going out the other side provides heating via a flowing liquid (not just conduction).

Afternoon all,
If one decided to go water, where and how? From the thermo housing to the intake and intake to where? There is no "hose neck" on the driver side. Can you get one already setup or is drilling and tapping required? For the outlet can you go to the driver side of a 54' 235 block somewhere? There are two threaded places on this side - one is drain valve looking fitting on the lower rear of the block and secondarily a 5/16 machine screw lower middle of the block as well. Both bleed antifreeze if loosened. Will either of these points work, the larger prefered? I have no heater presently so back to heater core is not necessarily option.
I have seen pict referenced in the archives but have not found them yet, still looking. Oh, I have Fentons and a Clifford intake but the process should be the same I would belive.
thnaks in advance,
Cavebulll

You have a few options for plumbing the water-heated system.

1. Put T fittings in the heater hoses near the water pump (supply and return).

2. Supply: Use a GMC thermostat housing that has an outlet fitting on the generator side - I do not know if this is above or below the thermostat - I would guess that it is below. Return: to a T fitting in the lower heater hose, near the water pump.

3. Supply: use the adapter plate from Tom Langdon that goes between the thermostat housing and the head. This plate has fitting on the generator side. Return: to a T fitting in the lower heater hose, near the water pump.

4. If you have one of the original 261 water pumps that has additional out-flow and in-flow fittings on the distributor side, you could use those.

Some people have reported that they connected the return line to the hole for the drain outlet on the lower-rear of the manifold side of the block.

I have used the Langdon plate behind the thermostat housing and the 261 water pump that has extra fittings.

Here's one members water heat setup that may give you some ideas:

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2118870210010188466ZOGcRt

great! just what I needed. Pictures are worth 1000 words.
Cavebull

Check this out. https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...amp;Main=7899&Number=49618#Post49618
And this. http://rides.webshots.com/album/560685900bxBmeg

Mac and all,
Way to go! Found the direction I am going to head. Doctasuds picts work well for me, is withing my budget, and range of capability. I have ran all of my fuel plumbing out of metal and tubing as well. The better point is the addition of brass. I am a commercial diver by trade, so brass is a part of my being : ) If my truck has a theme it would be a working truck for an old comm diver - thus one that used things around the site to fix it, brass, copper, n lead... much like farm trucks have saddle blankets on seats and bailing wire holding them together. By the way, Leadbelly is my company name and will one day be incorporated into the old door art.
thanks, I am heading out to the shade tree!
Cavebull

Anybody heard of splitting the exhaust manifolds on a 235, if so how do you do it?