The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Steering Box Rebuild

Well now Ive done it. I tore the steering column and box out of my COE and got her all stripped down and derusting. The inside goo looked like some nasty mustard... I cleaned all the teeth and parts and thankfully nothing was hurt from the water contaminating the box.

So, how does one remove the bearing race in the top of the gear box? It almost seems like I need to seperate the column from the gear box to get at it. Theres no way to use a puller or a piece of pipe through the column as there isnt a lip to catch on the back side of the race.

Also, the insulated bushing that connects the horn wire through the steering shaft didnt survive. I tried everything I could to coax it off without destroying it, but it split in half 3/4 of the way up the shaft. Ive found an NOS part, but is there anything I should be aware of when reinstalling this so I dont destroy it? Maybe grease the shaft and stick it in the freezer and then slide the warmed bushing down? Technically its not a bushing, but for ease of use thats what Im calling it.

Coincedentally, I just helped my welder friend pick up a lathe with all kinds of attachments which works out really good for me since it looks like Ill be making the steering bushings for the pitman shaft.

Thanks, Jeff

Jeff,

Don't quote me on this, but on some of the steering worms/shafts, the upper race is actually machined onto the shaft...it isn't a separate piece. I think this is right.

Stuart

I'm not sure what year they changed, but the old ones had what they called a ball nut and bearing type. The worm gear was a long screw and the ball nut worked kind of like the electric shifter on an Eaton 2 speed works. They had a bearing race that was machined on the shaft. The later ones were a worm and sector and everything is replaceable if you can find it. If you have the old style and it were mine, I would chuck it up in a lathe and polish the race with emery cloth. If it is a removable race, and you have one, you might have to heat the race to make it expand. I have a "green flame tip" that doesn't use oxygen. Only air. That way I don't get too hot. I certainly wouldn't take anything apart that you might ruin and then not be able to find a new one. Steering box bearings were numbers that don't cross over to any modern bearings.

Jeff,

Is this the same as on your COE? (I think this is for 42-46 COE)

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1942_47/4247csm910.htm

Tim

Chevrolet parts arent the same as GMC on my application. This stuff is heavier duty and significantly larger. Plus being a COE means the worm gear is above the pitman shaft, while conventional models are below (or something like that). Although the pictures do look the same between the two makes.

The lower race is actually machined into the adjustment screw, while the upper race looks to be seperate. Maybe by now enough of the grease and rust has fallen off in my tank and I can see it a little better. But there is no way to access this piece that I can see. I have NOS bearings to install in the box so no worries there.

Jeff

It looks like you have either a CF or an EF model. Parts are listed in my 1939-1950 100-470 book. My 1947-1954 models 100 -400 series has a section on the ball nut and bearing type. I am not sure however if this covers the early 1947. My oldest GMC is a 1949. However, when I was growing up, the earlier models had fallen into the hands of farmers for seasonal use. I did however help work on some of these boxes 45 years ago. I am sure that you realize this truck was built to go slow on rough roads. I assume this is the truck in your photos. You have done a fantastic job on the old girl.

Sorry, Jeff,

I had a memory warp - I know that you have a GMC.

Tim

After consulting the manual and parts book it does appear that the upper race is a seperate piece in the steering box. My plan is to try and tackle that tommorow, but Im still up for any ideas as to how Im gonna get the thing out!

Ill take some more pictures as I go and get those uploaded as I tear this thing apart further.

Jeff

Im stuck on removing the upper race. Ive disassembled the unit, degreased and derusted it. I think I may have to figure out how to make a tool to pull the race out, but Im not quite sure how. It does turn out that there is a small lip above the race. The diameter of the steering column is less then the race, so no pipe removal from above, it can only be pulled from below.

The lip above is roughly about 1/16" tall and wont give much support. So Id really be interested in any ideas. (hint, hint!)

Jeff

Jeff,

I have been consistently incorrect on your COE so far. This might be bogus info too as I don't know what that upper race looks like or how it's captured. Bearing separators can squeeze a race off of a tight fit when there isn't room to tap or bang them.

Maybe one of these would get the operation off to a good start.

http://www.greenfries.info/images/Rear_gear/DSC04736.JPG

Stuart

Its a force fit into the bore of the steering box from below.

Last night I had an epiphany and went out to look at it again. I chose a washer that was slightly smaller then the diameter of the top of the race. I was able to get it to catch on a very small amount of the lip at the top of the race. Then I used a screwdriver to wedge it in place so it wouldnt dislodge easy. Using a 4' section of pipe from above I gave it a sharp whack with a sledge and it moved ever so slightly to give it enough room to take a thinner washer and give a broader area to smack the race with.

Three blows from the sledge and it popped right out, good stuff!

I appreciate the ideas and help.

Thanks, Jeff

Congrats on getting it apart! I have found, many times, if I can't get something to work, I sleep on for a night and a random thought appears. Many times the random thought worked. Now if I can only make that work on my pay raise.

Jeff,

Looks like I had the wrong idea again. If you needed to remove a race like that in the future, and you aren't going to salvage it, you can run a bead around the inside with a MIG or stick and the race will fall right out.

This procedure is obviously not the way to go if you plan on reusing the old race.

Stuart

If I was planning on reusing it I probably wouldnt bother removing it!

Ill keep that in mind for future use. The only problem is that a welder is one of the few tools I dont have...

Jeff

Hey Rustednuts,
I went to your photobucket. That is a sharp truck. Where was that brewery? Are you thinking of keeping the original finish? Do you have pics of your steering box rebuild?

Thanks Super55! The brewery was in Omaha Nebraska. Eventually Ill rebuild the truck entirely, but for now its just the mechanicals with exception to the engine. I plan on a deep metallic blue for the body with black fenders and surrounds. Then Ill probably look at getting the brewery name put back on the doors. For now I want to use the truck for bringing dirt and rock into our property. When the engine blows Ill probably tear the whole thing apart and completely finish it then. She'll be repowered with a 302 GMC then.

Ill get the pics of the steering stuff up soon, and Ill post them when I do.

Jeff

I think I have a good one for a 54coe

Well Im at the point of putting this thing back together but I think Ive hit a snag. According to my book the worm gear takes 106 9/32" ballbearings or 53 per each guide.

I made sure to rotate the worm and only add the balls one section at a time and then adding the guides. After fully inserting all balls and both guides I can feel a slight click-click, no resistance, but it almost feels like its a ball or two short. Im fairly certain none of the balls made it around the guides and slipped between them.

Can anyone else peek at their books and see if 106 is the appropriate amount? Shes an EF-302 model.

Thanks, Jeff

Hy rustednuts, I saw your question first on the old GMC trucks page so I aswered it over there.

Okay, one more problem.

I noticed in the manuals that it appears the steering gear itself is supposed to have two lips in which the backside of the adjuster screw rests against and holds the steering gear in position. My gear does not have the two lips and it does not appear worn down or worn rough. Heres a pic of what Im asking about.

If it did wear down I have a plan to use machine bushings as thrust washers on the other side, but Id like to know before I go ahead and reinvent the wheel...

Thanks, Jeff

Hy rustednuts, the two little lips are there so that the adjusting screw can pull the shaft as well as push it for adjusting purposes. It should still function, and if you adjust it too tight you could always back the adjusting screw off and tap the shaft back and readjust. Maybe that's an aftermarket part, hope that helps.

Well the lips are non existant so the adjuster screw does nothing but put (push) tension against the end of the shaft, nothing there to hold onto to actually give it a little pull. None of these parts are aftermarket unless it was done years ago, and I didnt find any bits of metal in the box to account for where the lips went.

Looks like some careful measuring and some rather large machine bushings used as shims between the shaft and box should get me where I need to be unless anyone sees why this wouldnt work or that it would be a bad idea?

Thanks, Jeff

Hy rustednuts, I don't understand what you're trying to "shim" with machinery bushings, the lash adjustment screw should do what you want.

Because the lash adjuster screw has no where to hold onto the steering gear. The steering gear would push all the way in until it hits the side of the gear box and do nothing else.

Heres what Im talking about. According to my manuals there should be a lip on the end of the steering gear.

Does that make sense now? My intent would be to add a thrust washer or machine bushing on the other side of the shaft so that it would move the tooth contact into a full position between the steering gear and the worm gear block, otherwise there would be about 1/3 less tooth contact and the steering gear would rub against the inside of the gear box. All the lash adjuster does now is apply end pressure. It cannot be used to move the steering gear back and forth.

Jeff,

It sure is weird that those two little ears were worn off, but I think you have the right idea on a fix. Installing shims or washers would do the trick, but it would be a static setup. How about seeing if there were Belleville washers in the correct size.

If they were stout enough, you could actually load the gear up, and the Belleville washers would provide tension so your adjusting screw would function in both directions and you could fine tune your backlash....just an idea.

Stuart

Awesome idea Stuart!

Looks like Ill do some figuring and give McMaster Carr a try. Thanks for the help!

Jeff