The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop All metal filler

Has anyone used this All Metal Filler before?
I bought some at the local paint supply place today on my lunch hour, it is more expensive then the regular plastic body filler but I thought I would give it a try.
It is supposed to mix up and spread on similar to the other stuff and it says it can be sanded within 15 to 20 mins.

Anyone had any experience with it before?
Should I save my money and return it for the regular stuff?

I have never used it before but if it takes 15-20 minutes before sanding it would never be useful in a production body shop. A good body man can have a "1 hour" dent worked out, filled, sanded, feathered & in primer in 20 minutes. I can't tell you if its any good because I don't know anything about it, but I would use a good light weight plastic filler. Maybe someone here who knows what it is you have can tell you more about it than I can.

The term all metal filler confuses me. Is the filler made all of metal (wouldn't think it would be mixable at room temperature if it is) or is it called that because it's made to be used on all types of metal. If it's the later there's no difference from regular plastic because you can use it on any metal too. I guess to answer your question I've never used it.

it says it is aluminum filled All-Metal "Body repair material"
it offers filling and sanding properties similar to lead.
it has a reactor in a small tube similar to what usually comes with the normal body filler. The setting time is 3 to 4 minutes with full cure 15-20.
the brand is USC all-metal no. 14060

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/..._SE-_-Google-_-USC_Terms-_-usc_all_metal

Back when I owned a body shop, we used a product called "Aluma-Lead" that was mostly powdered aluminum in some type of epoxy binder. We used it to fill in rotted rear window channels on the mid-70's GM products by sandblasting the rusted metal, backing up the fill with cardboard, and spreading the aluma-lead about 1/4" thick into the channel. I don't remember a repair coming back because of it coming loose or leaking. I don't know if that product is still made, but Devcon Epoxy Aluminum and Eopxy Steel is still available. It's industrial-strength metal repair, MUCH better than J-B Weld.
Jerry

Recently I sandblasted the floor of my cab, passenger side had shallow pitting, but still had a lot of thick metal left. Rather than cut this out I used the ALLMETAL product. It is suppose to be a metal to metal application. Very nice to spread, easy to sand & once sanded and primed looks like smooth metal. Looks very nice. Only time will tell?

I am still in the strip and prime before I start any serious body work stage. But I put some on a spot on the cab front lower, just in front of the door (small spot) and over a spot where someone had drilled an antenna hole then welded back over it. It has been there over a year and I keep checking it for shrinking etc...it still looks good. The lower I applied it there because that metal can flex a little with some pushing or bumping and I wanted to keep testing it over time, it has not cracked or lifted at the edges. I wanted to try it out and give it some abuse way ahead of time before I even came close to thinking about painting. My applications are very thin, I am not using it to build up an area. If you are needing it for thicker applications I would get a test piece of metal, dent it and apply it as you would on your vehicle and play around with it. On thick applications it is good to see if heat and cold may make it swell or shrink.
I have read lots of things on the net about it and they all seem to be good.
It goes on smooth, easy to work and sands out good and has a hard finish. When you work down to higher grades of sand paper the finish gets very similar to the metal it is on.
Being that it is not talc base it does not hold moisture, unlike bondo. If you look at old bondo repairs you always see rust starts where the bondo is in contact with the metal.
It is not a fix for holes or cracks, as always they should be repaired by welding.
Also being that it is metal always wear a mask when sanding, breathing any kind of metal dust is not good.

Boy, that brings back some memories talking about Aluma-Lead. I forgot about it, but I also used it at the Chevy dealer I used to work for in the 70's & 80's.

my buddy put it in the door bottoms of his 59 bug truck.you know the same way our ad doors rot behind the weatherstripping.it has held up for ten yrs with no signs of failure..............dave

I have used Eastwoods Metal to Metal,aluminum with epoxy. After all parts were blasted and preped with acid I used this product over all weld seams and anywhere I thought moisture could penetrate to the backside of were I would later apply plastic body filler. It sanded similar to filler. I then coated all with epoxy and then 2k primer. Because of a flood the truck had to be moved outside for a week and sat in the rain. It has now been several months and the truck is back in the garage were I plan on getting to work filling and priming, I can find know areas that have bubbled or show signs of rust. Very happy with the Eastwood product.

I wonder if any of this can be used a s filler beore powder coating?