The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Wheel, How big is too big?

I have a 54 3100 with a stock suspension. How wide of wheel and how big of car can I run with out any problems? Does anyone know where I can find this answer?


Thanks,

You my friend need to take a few measurements,to figure this out. Its not really rocket science.

Take it to the local tire shop and have them mount up a single tire and wheel, if it fits buy all four, if not get a smaller size!

Remember this, with a stock front end, you will not be a to turn a wide tire as easy as you can a narrow tire. Even a little wider will make a difference with out power assist.

Joe

Remember.....wide tires always use more gas than narrow ones. You are having a larger footprint on the ground. Also narrow ones tend less to hydroplane than wide ones. Gear ratio is to be considered when going to a larger tire. If you go too large your engine will work harder and more gas consumed to keep it going down the road. Will not climb hills as well either. With 4.11 gears you can go up to a 33x9.50 tires but no larger without going to lower gears to compensate for the difference. I prefer after trying out many tires out the BFG All Terrain as they have great traction and are not noisy. I have them on my Chevy 4x4 and love them. They also last a long time compared to swampers and the such. They last about 20k-25k compared to 60k or more on BFGs. Plus they have a three ply sidewall which helps in stability, body roll and helps keep out sticks and rock from flatening your tire. Gives better handling. I'd check them out. Wide tires may look cool but make for poor handling, a bouncy ride and do not turn as sharp as previously mentioned. Tires that are too agressive use more gas amd are very noisy and usually don't last too long. If you feel you really need agressive tires reguardless but last relatively long, check out the Dayton Timberline Mud Terrain not the all terrain Daytons. They too have a three ply sidewall. I think the BFG is best all the way around. Just some tips on tires!

Marginal. Slightly more drag, but on a non-aerodynamic truck, I doubt if the difference is measurable.

I have a '52 GMC 3/4 ton and put modern chrome GMC 16" wheels on it. They're 8 lug too, just like my originals. But I needed spacers made up for them. Then they worked fine. The tires I believe are 265/75R-16, 31.65" diameter steel belted Uniroyals, and they ride about 500% better than the original tires. They clear and fit fine.

8" widw would be about as far as you will want to go. Anything wider will put the centerline of the wheel far enough out to really mess up the scrub radius and handling, never mind that it might look a bit goofy. I would suggest a 15x8, speced for a pre-'87 GM 4x4. that will keep you in the correct backspacing for clearance. use caution if you decide to go with 15x7s, seems the manufacturers only make them for Japanese trucks, those use a different backspace. While they will clear the tie rods, they will rub the drag link on a hard left turn. Also, on some wheels, the center caps won't fit right if you go with the 7" width. I know for a fact that the American Racing Smoothie is that way.
BTW, I'm running 15x7 GM Blazer Ralleys with 30x9.50x15 C range Michelins, they fit very nicley, and it still pulls hard with the 3.90 gears, but cruises nicley in high gear. Ride quality is exellent, considering that it's a truck (mine has the 3/4 ton rear spring option).

Why did you make sspacers, I bought mine for about $20. a set. Did however need two sets. Couldn't find 1/2 inch one

Then I needed longer studs,$1.85 EACH

I just tried it and it worked. I got chrome 16" wheels off of a 2000 GMC truck which were also 8 lug, and stuck one on to see if the bolt pattern would work. It did, but I needed to have 1 1/4" spacers made that take their own lugnuts and then have another set of 8 studs for the wheel. That worked really well and the wheels look great.

I am using 265/75R16 steel belted all season truck radials on it now and it rides 200% better.