The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Help with Dual Weber Throttle Linkage

I'm just about done with this project but, I have concerns about the throttle linkage. I'm running Langdons Dual Weber and Fentons. On the stand the throttle seem to work fine but once in the truck its not quite right. It binds up when opening the throttle. What have ya'll done to make this work smoothly. Any Suggestions?

Thanks

Holley-Weber or Carter-Weber?

235 or 261 (what year)? The the bell-crank locations are different.

Can you post a photo of your carb-to-carb linkage?

With some blocks and linkages it is just a matter of getting things aligned (fiddling with the linkage). However, some combinations require resizing the pedal rod and bending the throttle rod (the "up rod" from the bell crank).

Holley-Weber from Langdon.

1954 235..

I'm using Langdon's Linkage sent with the kit.

http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL366/751691/3291620/332109918.jpg

http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL366/751691/3291620/47985178.jpg

Use these links to my set up with Langdons linkage kit.

Dave,

Thanks for showing the photos of your Carter-Weber set-up (is that right, or, are they Holley-Webers)?

I'm now setting up dual Carter-Webers on a Fenton intake and I have a few questions.

Do you have a fuel pressure regulator in the fuel system? Is it visible in a photo?

Do you have a fuel filter in the fuel system? Is it visible in a photo?

Did you install a manual throttle cable on the dash? How did you attach it to the carbs?

Are you using a vacuum advance? Is the plumbing visible in the photos?

Do you have a 12v or 6v electrical system?
Where did you run the electric choke wires to a power source?

Did you have to adapt the accelerator pedal rod (to the bell crank)?

Did you have to adapt the throttle rod (from the bell crank up to carb throttle linkage bar)?

Thanks,
Tim

1. Yes, they are Carter/Weber 2 bbl's.
2. No I do not have a regulator not do I need one.
3. I have an inline filter coming out of the tank hopwever I did clean the tank out well.
4. The carbs have electric chokes.
5. Yes, vacuum advance Mini HEI which works quite well.
6. 12 Volt system with new harness. Choke is wired to have power with switch on.
7. No problem with pedal rod. Pretty much the original deal.
8. I made that part of 1/4" rod and threaded it for adjustment. A real no-brainer.

Dave,

Thanks for all the answers. If you will bear with me, I have some follow-up questions (I am seeking advice from you):

1. Tom Langdon said that the C-W electric chokes would work with a 6v system. The C-W documentation says it must be a 12v lead. Do you think I will be OK with a 6v lead to the chokes?

2. Do you think I would be OK picking up my 6v feed at the "in post" on the coil?

3. Did you hook up a manual throttle? I do not plan to do so but might try it, if you were successful.

4. Is the plumbing for your vacuum advance shown in one of your photos? I think I will run one line from each carb to a tee, and then one line back to a standard vacuum advance. It appears that it does not matter which of the two vacuum ports on a carb is used for this purpose?

I am working on a 1960 261 and the bell-crank is closer to the pedal than on the 235. I'm now fiddling with combinations of pedal rods, bell-cranks, and up-rods (and where to route the up-rod through the manifolds). I'm the no-brainer on this part of the job. I did it once with Rochesters, so I think I'll get it with the C-Ws.

Thanks,
Tim

Dave,

I noticed the angled pieces holding your heim joints face up resulting in the pivot rod above the carb bases. All the other pictures I have seen of that setup are upside down to yours with the rod much lower. Does it work either way on that application?

Curt,

Thanks for the question. It caused me to look again. It looks like Dave did not set his up as shown in the picture from Langdon's. He has a 90 degree turn in the flat bar that attaches the linkage post to each carb. Very Nice idea. It allows the throttle rod from the bell crank to work upwards on the "outward" side of the carb-to-carb linkage rod - I'll try this alternative as I fiddle with my 261's bell-crank location.

Dave,

Your photos have been quite helpful. Where did you obtain the the "adjustable-swivel-headed" vertical rod from the bell-crank to the linkage rod?

Heck, I might as well ask: where did you get the 90 degree electrical connectors to the choke (I was going to use a straight connector but the 90 degree ones would be nicer).

This information may not be helping 1954Chevy5Window with his Holley-Webers, but it sure is helping me.

Thanks,
Tim

Curt: does it work either way? Well I only know it works this way and it's the only way I've done it so I can't say about either way.

Tim: I just used some 1/4" rod as I explained and threaded it and got the hardware from the FLAPS or Ace, I can't recall.

The electrical fittings are standard things avaiilable from a FLAPS. I think any keyed electrical source would work but it's a cleaner look to get it at the source IMO.

I found Langdons info not to be of much help so I went my own way which is a style that suits me anyway. It all seems to work OK which is all thats important to me. Langdon has seen my setup personally and didn't comment on it.

Maybe inverting the angles might answer the original question.

Tim,
If you're looking for throttle ball joints here's one source:

http://www.aetnascrew.com/bjoint3.htm