The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Front end rebuild

Im almost to the point where I plan on tearing into the front end of the COE. I plan on new king pins, brake hardware, tie rod ends, draglink, etc.

Once I get this thing apart and see whether or not I need oversized parts, where can I find a new king pin set? I think Ive found the new tie rod ends through Napa. Are the drag link assemblies pretty much the same from conventional trucks and COEs?

Is there any big warnings that I should be aware of when doing this? How about adjusting the alignment? Can I do this, or will a shop have to?

I dont plan on tearing into the steering box just yet, but if there is play there, will it effect the driving?

Thanks, Jeff

If you have play in the steering gear, Adjust it according to the shop manual before tearing in to it, and it may be OK.

You can adjust the toe in easily.
With axle shims you can adjust the caster.
The shop is best to adjust camber, as they bend the axle to do so.

NAPA may have king pins and bushings. of not try posting a wanted add here, as a number of folks have NOS parts for sale "ChevyB" being one person to try.

Have the bushings professionally honed or reamed.

Grigg

I have a 1945 1 1/2 ton. Its a work truck, and I've rebuilt the front end,had all the springs rebuilt, and gone thru all the brakes.I've got a 1955/235 that still doesn't have a 1000 miles on it, cause I don't drive that much anymore. It has a working 2-speed and I still use a crash box 4 speed. In all the places I've gotten parts, I think these guys are the greatest, they know there stuff, and I like getting NOS in the original boxes. http://www.obschevy.com/ Sorry to say that more and more autopart counter people just don't want to deal with me when I ask for 1945 chevy parts, that I have just looked up on their online web site, so I know they can get them...

Go ahead and do the steering box while you have the axle out. Most of the old boxes have wear in the secter shaft bushing and a leaking seal. These old boxes are easy to redo and work great with fresh bushings and lube. I just redid one on a 46 for about $30 for new bushings seal and gaskets.

Well I just got done grunting and cursing at my front axle in the COE. Now the axles lying on the floor in the garage and ready to be taken apart, cleaned and derusted. Actually this was pretty easy to take apart. Theres something to be said about these trucks from the dry climate states. A lot of the pieces came off a little to easy for my liking and half the cotter pins are missing in the various pieces. So its probably a good thing that I havent made to many trips around town.

Ive looked through my books and Im not quite sure I understand how Im supposed to check whether or not Ill need oversized kingpins?

How do I tell if the camber needs to be adjusted? I know shops will bend the axle if needed, but do they need any specific information to do it, or how far assembled will it need to be?

I havent messed with any of the front end stuff before so I want to make sure I do it right. I appreciate the help and any insight.

Thanks, Jeff

Hy rustednuts, according to my Canadian parts book, the standard size kingpin set is GM p/n 3691111 = Napa NCP 2621475 $62.99, hope that helps

My GMC book shows GM # 2218363 for my EF-300 model, but does not show an oversize number. I have found an NOS set and they do carry an oversize set as well. Which doesnt do me a lot of good since I dont know what Im looking for...

This axle also says TIMKEN on it so I may have to do some more digging.

Thanks, Jeff

Hy rustednuts, firstly could you please post your model number in your request for part numbers [if you know it] GM p/n 2218363 = Napa NCP 2621275 $95.99, hope that helps

Bobb I appreciate the help with the new numbers. That makes things much easier then relying on the 'best guess before ordering' method. Please bear with me here as this is a first for me working on a front end and I probably have some stupid questions.

It is a 1947.1 EF-300 series truck. The ID plate says its an EF-302 model. I hope that is what you need, if not please clarify for me and Ill see what I can do.

If youd be willing to help out with a few more numbers that would be great. It looks like tie rod ends are GM # 2019616 (right) and # 2019617 (left). The drag link is GM # 269869, and I have found that as an NOS replacement, but if there is a rebuild kit available Id rather go that route then buy an entire new assembly. My book doesnt show a kit for it.

Looking at what you added on the Oldgmctrucks site, you say to have it fully assembled and bring it into an alignment shop. If the camber is in need of adjustment, wouldnt that be something to check before assembly? I also still dont know what Im looking at to determine whether or not Id need an oversized kingpin set. Im assuming I look at the kinpin in relation to the hole in the axle itself, and if that is worn then I may need to use the oversize kingpin set?

Thanks again for the help.

Jeff

Hy rustednuts, camber is changed by the alignment shop using special tools and a heavy jack, if it is required. It is much easier for them to work on the axle when it is in the vehicle. I could not find a cross to your tie rod end numbers, or your drag link number. The rebuild kits are available through many suppliers. Good luck with your parts search.

Hey 3B,
Do you ever use Ken's Vintage Parts in Chilliwack. I found my king pins there. They are a tad slow about getting my bushing installed, but I am just as slow so it works out.
Paul

Thanks Bobb, that makes sense. I couldnt visualize it in my head, or see how it would be done. Ill spend some time at Napa tommorrow and see if they'll let me borrow some books so they dont have to do the work. They'll probably enjoy that...

Okay, now I feel like a dork. Ive derusted the front axle and just got the first coat of primer on. Now that Im looking at the axle, does it matter which way points forward and which way points back?

Its a Clark type axle, and it doesnt appear any different from one perspective or another. I didnt take any pictures prior to removal because we lent out the camera. Crap...

Any ideas?

Thanks, Jeff

Hy rustednuts, If my interpretation of the parts book illustration is correct, the tapered lock pins for holding the kingpins in place go in from the rear side of the axle. The larger hole diameter for the lock pin should be the back side of the axle, hope that helps.

Jeff,

This could be bum info because I have no idea what a Clark axle is. On my 4400, the tapered pins are the opposite as described by Bobb. The pins on mine go in from the FRONT and have the nut on the BACK.

The spring attachment points are wider at the rear than at the front so the holes for the u-bolts are at a slight angle.

Again, this is on a '54 4400 truck so I don't know about yours.

Stuart

I think I can work with that. Thanks for the help!

Stuart, the Clark axle is whats illustrated in the GMC Master Parts book, slightly different then a regular axle since there is a huge tapered hole in the bottom of both spindles that the steering arm slides in and is held in place by a giant nut and square woodruff key.

Where as the typical axles steering arm has the two bolts which attach it through the spindles and backing plate to secure it in place. Ill get some pictures up eventually when I start putting it all back together.

One more thing is that the axle and steering arms both have Timken forged on them. Why they list it as a Clark axle I dont know!

Jeff

Can you block up the axle so you can see how the caster is set? Caster is what will be most wrong if you get the axle in backwards...

Thanks to the advice above I figured it out. Due to the rusted portions where the springs lay on top of the axle I was able to measure the width of those marks, and found that the rear section is nearly 2" wider then the front. So the springs taper inwards as they move forward.

Bobb your also right. The tapered pins do come in from behind. Mine had three marks where they had been punched to keep the pin from backing out.

Thanks, Jeff

Well my front end is rebuilt. All the pictures are here.

I still have to pull out the steering box and column before I bolt her back in, but I mocked her up with the tie rod and steering arms today in the garage. I recently had the bushings reamed to size and installed the spindles last night.

So atomarc, if your still interested in what a 'Clark' axle that was forged with the name 'Timken' in it looks like, you can see it here.

Drivers side steering arm.

Passenger side steering arm.

Im waiting on parts currently to rebuild my draglink. But once I get the column out and rebuilt, this thing should go back together fairly quickly.

Thanks for all the help everyone! It was much appreciated.

Jeff

Jeff,

I am still interested. Thanks for the beautiful clear pictures..now I know what a Clark axle looks like. Very nice work too.

Stuart

If you want to check the camber, here is how to do it. You need to have the wheels on, the truck sitting as it normally would and the steering centered. Now using a carpenters square or vertical level, measure how far out the front wheels lean out to the side at the top. Now, measure the height. Using the shop manual, look up the camber spec in degrees. Using the calculator in Windows, take the sine of the degrees specified, and multiply by the height measurement. As an example, for a 1 deg specification, multiplying the sine of 1 deg by say a 30" height gives you around 1/2 inch. This method is valid for small angles.

Jeff, I was looking at your pictures. Just curious, why you painted your steering arms red. Is that the stock colour?

I dont think any of this stuff was painted from the factory. I like to mix things up a little! All black seems a little boring so I added a little contrast to the mix.

Jeff

It does look good. I'll have to see if I have any hot pink. I painted mine with the zero rust paint. I was just outside turning the engine over by hand because I still don't have the wires redone and I don't want it to seize on me. I made a little bar with 3/8" bolts for pins, and i welded a 3/4" nut to the centre for turning with a socket wrench. I don't see any other way to do it.