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Had my license since July 1st, and the ole' 65 been runnin great. Today however, as i went to turn left, my green blinker light wouldnt blink when i pushed down on the stick. Thought maybe the light in the panel was i out, but i checked it later today and noticed the actual light on the back of the truck wouldnt blink either. But both my brake lights work and so does my right blinker lights, both panel and the actual light, I would really appreciate some help here because although the blinkers aren't a major necessity, my dad CAN'T FIND OUT!!! Thanks in advance.


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First check that the Indicator switch is actually contacting and sending a supply to the flasher unit.
Your truck's blinkers are wired through an electronic relay called a Flasher Unit.

It should be under the dash and is the unit that produces the "ticking" sound as your lights flash.

Turn on the right hand blinker so that you can find the flasher unit, then remove and replace with a new one from the nearest auto parts store.
Are not very expensive!

Last edited by doc bob; 08/04/2008 4:40 AM.

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When I was having trouble with the blinkers on my '61 it turned out to be a bad ground. If you disassemble the tail light buckets you will find some clips that attatch to the body. On my truck these were so corroded that I had to replace them. My intermittent blinkers were the result of this bad ground. All I had to do to fix it was clean everything up and put new clips on. They had the clips at NAPA and they were a cheap fix! Anyways, I have super bright tail lights now...

Good luck, feel free to post more questions if I left something out.

Kyle


"Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what to do and they will surprise you with their ingenuity." - George S. Patton

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Hy guys, I would respectfully suggest that if you have two good bright functioning brake lights, then you don't have a ground problem. When the turn signal switch is in the left turn position, and you step on the brakes, how many brake lights do you have? If you only have the right brake light, then the turn signal switch is separating the brake signal as it should. The problem seems to be in the turn signal switch. Turn signal switches are generally sealed units [not repairable]. There is a type of flasher unit that depends on load to make it flash, so if one of your turn signal bulbs is burnt out it will not flash, so check your front turn signal bulbs to make sure they are okay, hope that helps.

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yea thats the thing 3B, my front signals dont even exist! Behind the yellow light there is absolutely no wiring to connect them so out of 4 possible blinkers i now only have 1 operational. New news though. This morning i tried it and pushed down really hard on the the blinker stick and the green panel signal and actual light was blinking. Sadly, after that i couldnt get it to do it again no matter how hard i pused down on the stick, so i think that might be the issue?


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That is the obvious problem C10.

The switch contacts are not operating.

You have no front indicators ????????????


"It's not a wreck......It's a natural resource!"
Quote-Doc Bob circa 2006

DOCS CLASSIC GARAGE
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My pictures at..........
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Most flashers will not work unless you have a load on them usually 2 bulbs.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
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No, only the piece of amber glass where the bulbs go behind, but there are no bulbs at all and no indication that wires were ever there. It would honestly seem as if it was built like that, like a do it yourself job that Chevy didnt think was important, which i know isnt the case. So if we've determined its the blinker stick, How in the name of God do i remove the armor plating off of the steering wheel so i can fiddle with it?


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The steering wheel needs to come off, then the horn contacts that reside below it. As far as the missing components in the front, sounds like the po removed them, not sure why one would do that, though.


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How do i take the steering wheel off, bear with me, im a hopeless retard.


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Not much to it. You'll need to pop the horn button off, that remove the retaining nut and horn contact . Then you'll need a steering wheel puller (available at the parts store) to pull the wheel off. Make sure to index the wheel to the shaft with some sort of marking so that it will be aligned prperly when you re-install it.


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i see, and i should be able to find this at me Advanced Auto parts, and is it cheap?


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The switch was listed at about $60 (#53-508) in ClassicParts catalog from a year or so back. I don't know if Advanced Auto can get it or not.

You also may be able to get the steering wheel off by loosening the nut about 3 turns, then hitting the spokes from underneath with your hands. Be sure the nut is on far enough to keep the wheel from coming completely off and whacking you in the nose.

regards,
Leon

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http://www.partsamerica.com/Product...umber=D6202&PartType=832&PTSet=A
Appearently, they can, but it's kind of privcey.
I've done the removal method of smacking it off from underneath, but if the wheel has never been off, it would be best to use the correct tool for the job. Might just save both damage to the wheel and injury to the hands.


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What was that thing you had a link to, the ACdelco switch?


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I have to take that one back, appearently, it doesn't fit the '65, even though it's listet to fit a '66.
Here's a turn signal switch listed for a '65 from Advance, still pricey, though.
http://www.partsamerica.com/product...ber=DS73841&PartType=832&PTSet=A


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And i'd take off the steering wheel and replace the old one with that? I'm not sure, but i think i have a sign of wear and tear to my turn signal switch. The blinker stick is very limp, sometimes when i turn on my right blinker, it falls back down to no blinker. Thought that might help with something. Also i really appreciate your help with this Longbox, i'd be in a hole without you im afraid


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Might be a problem with the cam, which is what holds the lever in place. Advance lists that also, $10.


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Sorry, is it just me or have I missed something?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the reason I asked if you have no indicators is that no matter what you do replacing flasher units, switches etc...............
If you have no indicator lights....it STILL ISN'T GOING TO WORK!

Run wires to your lights and fit bulbs, then see if your flashers actually work!
The green light on the dash will ONLY operate when the bulbs are fitted and working.


As Wrenchbender Ret. pointed out, these units will not operate without bulbs fitted.

Put it all together properly......THEN see if you need to remove steering wheels,replace switches or flasher units.......chances are there is nothing wrong with them and you will be wasting money on parts that aint broken!

Last edited by doc bob; 08/08/2008 4:04 AM.

"It's not a wreck......It's a natural resource!"
Quote-Doc Bob circa 2006

DOCS CLASSIC GARAGE
Specializing in Hot Rods,
Customs & Street Machines.
My pictures at..........
1936 Chev 1/2-Ton Holden Body


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But ive never had front indicators, yet my rear ones have always worked, both panel lights and lights themselves, ive been wanting to hook up the fronts, but i dont know what kind of wire to get or how to get it through the firewall


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Well it looks like one light was enough hey!
It is real easy to fit your front lights, but it sounds like you need a bit more knowledge than you have at hand.

Your local auto store can provide you with all the help you need.
Talk to the assistant and they will sell you the right wire, globe holders etc. and give you any advice you need to install.

Read some DIY books, look on the net for how to tips and gain as much knowledge as you can............
It might be the first step to bigger and better things!

If you have any dramas.....some basic knowledge can be gained from this forum.

All the best Doc Bob.


"It's not a wreck......It's a natural resource!"
Quote-Doc Bob circa 2006

DOCS CLASSIC GARAGE
Specializing in Hot Rods,
Customs & Street Machines.
My pictures at..........
1936 Chev 1/2-Ton Holden Body


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thanks doc


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You need to borrow, buy, or 'liberate' a steering wheelpuller tool. Just take off the horn cap, and you will see a nut there. Take the nut off, and then use the puller tool to gently pull off the steering wheel. I cannot stress the GENTLE part enough here. There are delicate splines and such that need to be taken care of. The steering wheel itself can be a little delicate as well.

It's really easy to do though. Should take about 20 minutes.

Kyle


"Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what to do and they will surprise you with their ingenuity." - George S. Patton

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Yes, but once i get the wheel off, i dont understand know what to do about the blinker, i guess just fiddle with the stick and see whats not connecting?


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Umm, not to sound rude or anything, but do you have a shop manual for your truck? while asking for advise here is great, and you can pick up solutions and procedures from the experts here, nothing beats having a dealer grace shop manual at your side when working on really, any vehicle. Check out some of the suppliers, like American Classic .
Shop manuals usually run about $35. An assembly manual, which was used in the plants to show the correct assembly procedures, comes in handy as well.
As to the lever problem, I would venture to say that something is amiss with the cam mechanism, rather than the switch. The cam is what holds the lever in place. It may be worn out or have a broken spring.


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i see, thankyou


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I've decided to purchase this "shop manual" YOu say this will come in handy?

Last edited by 1965 Chevy C10; 08/11/2008 1:30 PM.

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I had the same problem as you. I had to remove the steering wheel and clean the brass contacts inside of the turn signal switch. It was a simple fix, they were corroded and not making connection. That might explain why yours worked when you pushed really hard on the switch.

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oooh good


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How do i put my horn button back on without someone calling the police?


3 Speed Or No Speed

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A shop manual is your best freind when working on an old vehicle. They go in depth on the repairs, what tools are needed, and in some cases, if there was a running change or improvement over the original design, instructions on doing the upgrade )factory upgades only). It will be well worth it, especially if you're unfamiliar with doing automotive repairs work (again, not to sound rude or offend).
But by all means, if you need help, ask. That's what we're here for.


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Originally Posted by 1965 Chevy C10
How do i put my horn button back on without someone calling the police?

Unplug the green wire (should be green) going to the horn at the front left side of the engine compartment if you don't want it to go off.

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Ahh, just put it back on and don't worry about it. someone would have to be a real jerk to call the police over a horn going off. And even if the did, the police won't do anything about it, there's no laws that say someojne can't work on their own vehicle.


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lol thanks i didnt have time to wait for a reply, so i just did it while i was driving down the island i live ons main road, scaring the hell out of anyone unfortunate enough to be mowing the lawn at the time


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Drive and re-fit horn buttons at the same time ?????????

A talented young fella !!!!!!
I thought I was the only one who steered with their knees!


"It's not a wreck......It's a natural resource!"
Quote-Doc Bob circa 2006

DOCS CLASSIC GARAGE
Specializing in Hot Rods,
Customs & Street Machines.
My pictures at..........
1936 Chev 1/2-Ton Holden Body


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Disconnect the battery cable, maybe?
Jerry


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YUP, I agree with Hotrod ..I played the HOOOORRRRNNNN...SERINADE..till I said DOOOH unhook the battery till ya done Homer!...lol


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