The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop SBC with stock steering

Hi Guys,

I've been fretting over this for a while issue for a while. I was wondering if anyone who has put a V8 in a AD with the stock axle could send/post pictures of the steering setup. Whether it be a different setup completely then stock or just a spaced box, any pictures are good pictures.

Thanks
Colin

I have. Just recently. I had another request to photograph my custom radiator set up, which I will have to do with conventional film because of the poor quality of my digital photos. If you PM me your address, I would be happy to photograph my set up and mail a few pics to you.

The thing about my V8 conversion is that every thing was a custom job. Absolutely everything. And the approach to solving the problems has been done differently with almost everyone who's made the V8 conversion. In fact, I'll write a post about that for the benefit of others thinking about the conversion.

Basically what I did was to keep the stock steering for now. I didn't want to get a brand new steering set up until I've completed my 4WD conversion, which will change everything anyway. I just wanted to make the stock steering work for now. Actually, someone here on this forum gave me the idea.

If you unbolt the steering box and do some minor sheetmetal clearancing at the firewall, you can move the box about an inch to inch and a quarter outboard. But to hold it there, you have to use longer bolts and shim it over. I "shimmed" it using brass pipe connectors that I had, but you can use anything.

Keep in mind that it's still very tight. I took out each of the 3 bolts on the engine-bay side of the steering box and replaced them with grade 8 bolts that I had shaved down the heads on with a grinding wheel. Even with that and the shimming, I could not really fit anything in there except stock exhaust manifolds. And because I am using a single-pattern Iskendarian cam that requires a good exhaust system, I really wanted headers. So I picked up a set of 1986 Corvette shorty headers and turned them upside down like you would for a twin turbo application, with the collectors turned up. Then I made my own pipes using 2.5" J-bends, mandrel bent and aluminized. To address the heat issues, I wrapped everything in fiberglass header wrap. That is how I avoid burning everything from wires and hoses to the back of my hands. The J-bends go back down in the rear corners of the engine bay.

So PM me your snail-mail address and in a couple of weeks, I will be off vacation and can develop film photos of how I did it and mail them to you.

I see you guys are working on GMC's. Are they the same chassis and steering as the AD's?
I've watched post about this issue and I, myself, is at this crossroad.
I used a set of frame mounts from Chassis engineering and they work really nice. No crossmember to deal with. I currently have my 305 engine and 350 tranny bolted into the chassis. Last week I "held up" my steering sector and column to see how much it was off. Like HotRodDad says its about an inch but to get the plug wire on #3 cylinder I'll have to "offset" the steering box about
1 1/2 inches.
Since the previous owner completely reworked the front axle I decided to keep it. Most folks can deal with the steering its finding a set of headers that will clear and look good.

So far on the bolt I've read where a set of 1991 (I think) Corvette headers will work....also someone here suggest and I believe they actually used, a set of the "ram" syle 283 engine headers. I have a set of block huggers on my 37 that worked and will see if that is the way to go on my AD Panel.

Hot Rod Dad: I'm a little confused when you say "shimming" the steering over. From what I see on my AD is that I just need to make a plate, lets say 3" wide, and attach it in the place of the original bolts through the chassis. THEN drill holes to set the sector over the 1 1/2 inches.
According to a stovebolter in an earlier post he said that when doing this it changed the position of the steering wheel very little and it was not noticeable. I suppose its due to the "pivot point" being up close to the steering wheel where it bolts under the dash....Although I did read where another bolter heated the firewall wall cherry red and pushed the column over where it would be straight in line and it was also not detectable. The difference here is if you move the gear box the steering wheel "goes toward the center and if you heat and move the firewall and move the entire column over then the steering wheel moves toward the drivers door.
It may not mean much either way but TWO questions remain in my mind. 1)which set headers will work and #2) if you move the steering gear box over 1 1/2 inch will it effect the steering arms....meaning the pittman arm and the drag link?

As I go forward I guess I'll find out. I think it all depends on where the engine is positioned. After all I've done I think I should have pulled the engine forward another inch or two...BECAUSE as it is I am most likely going to have to use a SMALL HEI distributor as the instructions with the motor mounts said the big distributor will be to tight against the firewall.
This I will not confirm or deny until I actually set the body back on the chassis.
If you go to the second page of my photobucket you can see the engine mounts I used. I know this is long but its also something I think most of us encounter with the V8 in the AD frames!
OH....as for the steering it has also been said that a Toyota steering box can be made to work with out much trouble and you can have power steering. I think it was a steering of a 4x4.

http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/LutherParris/52panel/

For the purposes of this dialog they are.

The front crossmember is different but not in a way that affects the steering.

Your panel has some body mounts that are different than a 1/2-ton pickup, but they are all further back and don't affect steering in any way either.

Achipmunk, I used a 1986 set of Corvette headers. They are for a tuned port injected 350, but how they mount to the heads is the same as earlier 350's. In my case, I turned them up instead of pointing down because it is too difficult to clear everything pointing down. Too much junk down there and framerails so close, they don't give you a break. Even turning them up, I had to move over the steering box.

Yes, I too recall the post you refer to. And I moved over the steering wheel about an inch over at the firewall, but instead of heating up the firewall, I just cut it. I reasoned that because I will eventually convert over to a better wishbone front suspension and 4WD anyway, I will also, at that time, change the entire steering column and probably go with a Flaming River street rod column. So the firewall will change then anyway. And your estimates of an inch and a half for the steering box is accurate, although good luck actually getting it more than an inch and a quarter. You can do more, but will end up cutting up the inner fender for additional clearancing. I didn't want to do that if I am going to change the whole thing in the future anyway, which is why I ended up shaving the 3 bolt heads on the steering box for additional clearance.

I drove it around the cul-de-sac and turned the truck around and didn't notice any change in steering feel, nor the slightly altered angle of the steering wheel. It really is not noticeable.

One more comment. You mentioned using a 305 with a TH350 transmission. You have more freedom to modify the positioning of the V8 if you use an automatic transmission that does not require the shifter coming through the floor. Most people position their engines a few inches further forward when using an automatic so that they do not have to alter their firewalls. If you do this, you can use a standard stand-alone HEI no problem. Because I chose to keep mine manually shifted, I had to mount my engine further back to conform with the transmission's stock location, and that is why I had to modify my firewall.

Thanks for your comments ..... I will "know more" when I get the body back on the chassis. I hope to be finished with the sandblasting this week.
As for moving the engine forward more.....I think I should have squeezed another inch or so forward but the chassis "changes" a little right where the front of the mounts are AND the rear cross member was made for this chassis and fits exactly where the old one came out and will not move forward unless I start modifying it. It fits exactly and is not one of the adjustable ones. It uses the same bolt holes so I was also trying to avoid redrilling holes. Thats why I didn't weld the mounts in place and I also only put two top bolts in the mounts to the chassis "just in case" I put the body back on and have to move it forward.
In the end I had rather buy a new smaller HEI than move the mounts and modify the rear crossmember. With my discount I can get a NEW distributor and new coil for $120 and forget the other problems.
Thanks again for your comments. Its good to know you didn't notice any steering problems.