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#426902 06/26/2008 6:17 PM
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 453
M
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
M Offline
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 453
I have my 2-ton axle off the truck and sitting on jack stands. The leaf springs are off and the drums are off. When I did this with my front axle, I was able to remove the backing plates as well. Can the backing plates for the rear axle be removed? There's (6) bolts with nuts attached to backing plates, but do these just attach the brakes to the plate? I cleaned the plates for the front axle and they look really good. Was hoping to do the same for the rear if I can.

Thanks in advance!

Joined: Feb 2006
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R
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Yes. But they are a pain just like the fronts.


My 1953 Chevrolet
1947.1 Gallery
1972 C-10 1/2 Ton & 1972 C-30 1 Ton
Joined: Apr 2006
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M
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Rustednuts...Have you done it before? If so, how in the heck did ya do it? Do I move or remove the "thingy" that holds the "what-cha-call-it" so the "thing-a-ma-bob" will come off? This one here has got me in a pickle. Not sure how to do this one.

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Nope the "do-dad" needs to be removed before you touch the "thingy" Don't forget to pull the plug out of the "goesinta" It is also wise to look at the muffler bearings while you have it torn down. headscratch

RT1 #428121 06/30/2008 4:31 PM
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R
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Ron, the 6 bolts on mine were torqued down extremely hard. Add the years of rust and dirt and those things were a pain. Once I removed as much dirt as I could and removed the nuts and lock washers, I had to beat the living hell out of a few of the bolts to get them out. Some came out easy, but the rest were stubborn as hell.

After all the nuts and bolts are removed, the backing plate comes off. You will not be able to remove the pieces that attach to the brakes, that the bolts go through because there are 2 little ball end pieces that the brake springs attach to that are peened on the other side of the backing plate. I almost thought about grinding them down and drilling and tapping them so that I could remove those pieces, but I got them clean enough as they were together.

I assume this is what your looking at?

The bolts were so tough to get out I actually bent the ends when I hammered them out. The brakes need to be removed first. So pull the springs and remove the cotter pins, castle nuts and washers. There are 2 woodruff keys that will fall out and youll wonder where the heck they go. You should probably pull the wheel cylinders and tubes off if your giving it a real good cleaning. DONT THROW AWAY YOUR OLD PIECES OF TUBING! If your replacing those lines, you either need to find new flare nuts that will fit (7/16-20 TPI) or reuse the old. Standard tube nuts are 7/16-24 TPI for the 1/4" lines.

I have pictures of my whole tear down and reassambly if you need. I just dont have them all uploaded to the photobucket page.

Hope that helps and doesnt confuse you more!

Jeff


My 1953 Chevrolet
1947.1 Gallery
1972 C-10 1/2 Ton & 1972 C-30 1 Ton

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