The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop POR 15

I did read the other thread on POR but am still confused. Do you need 2 different paints? I can of por15 and a top coat? I want to use this to paint my chassis and inside of my fenders and cab (before the liners are installed). What do you suggest I use for this and what is the procedure?

46 halfton,

check out these links about POR 15.

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=1&dept=1

http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/POR15ApplicationInfo.pdf

http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/no%20read%20directions.pdf

46halfton: I didnt' look at the links above but I'll add that POR15 is NOT UV resistance and will fade exposed to the sunlight. So, most use POR15 then spray a finish coat on top of it. For me I use it on the chassis and don't put a top coat on it because the chassis will not be seeing the sunlight. If I use it on exposed bumper brackets then I paint over the top of it.

I'm sure the links above also point out how this stuff can coat your lungs if you breath it. Since I put mine on with a brush I used a small respirator and had some air blowing but if you spray it you better have the best respirator you can get!
And yes, the brush marks will level out, use small bits at a time to keep it from starting to set up in your can as you paint it on. Someone mentioned drilling a small hole in the top of the can and pouring small amounts out and keeping duct tape stuck over the top of it to keep it from drying out.
Use old clothing as this stuff will NOT come out of clothes and use some gloves or expect a week or so to wear off your hands!!

You don't need a top coat for POR-15 unless it will see sunlight.

46halfton,
I was also thinking of painting my chassis with POR15 and I did not. POR15 is very effective but also needs a very accurate preparation! The chassis has to be complety degreased otherwise you will not take the advantage of POR15 and it can not chemically joining the metal.
I used a coat of primer and chassis paint.

Apache,

Would you not need to do the same preparation with primer and paint?

Not the same!
The base for chassis paint is not that important.
Even some primer and thinners contains oil. So if there is a minimum left on the frame it does not matter. But oil and POR15 will not work so the cleaning procedure is more complex.

I can agree with ApachePride on Por15,
I just thought to submit my results from painting my frame this week end using Por 15. My frame was completely sandblasted. On the plus side it goes on easily with a brush, shows no brush marks at all and looks like it was sprayed on.

The down side is the Por 15 is not UV resistant, and must be topcoated. However you must topcoat it within 4 to 6 hours of the first application. Otherwise when it cures, nothing will stick to it, even a second coat of Por 15. I learned this the hard way.

If I had to do this over again with the frame being sand blasted, I would probably use plain old rustoleum primer and paint. I reason that with a good coat of primer and paint, it would still be better than the way it was painted at the factory, and last way past when I am gone...

53 GMC 1/2 ton
49 GMC 1/2 ton

I did the 37 chassis with primer then paint.....the panel chassis I just did with the POR15, after blasting, and I'm on the POR15 side. If you examine the cost I bought the POR15 for $35 and just recently did another 37 chassis for a fellow and he had almost exactly $50 in the Rustoleum primer and paint.
With POR15 you do it once and its good to go.

Yes, POR15 is not UV resistance but the chassis will be fine. Paint the bumper brackets or any other exposed parts with paint (or paint over the por15.

Have you ever used POR over body filler. I am using some all metal on some portions of the firwall and was just curious if you had ever used it on anything other than bare metal.

It is made to bond into metal, and if the metal is rusty already it bonds even better. It is not made to go over anything but metal from what it says in the instructions.

You can look in my webshots albums. I jusy did a 1960 cab bottom, floor and firewall both sides with Por-15. I also went over the bondo no problems.

http://rides.webshots.com/album/418859032XlfpAT


Jake

I just used POR15 for the first time ever on a friends front axle and backing plates. One word --- FANTASTIC !!!!! It IS a bit time consuming, but now the chassis looks like hell, even though it freshly cleaned and painted !!! OOPS. Start with the Marine Clean, then the Metal Prep, and then 2-3 coats of the paint. Everyone is correct about the UV issue. One word of caution - be careful where the paint goes as it gets thick and HARD mean clearances change and holes/threads can fill up. NOT good.

Is it worth the time and effort? Absolutely. Once cured POR 15 is darn near indestructible. Oh, WEAR LATEX GLOVES. Good luck.

MUCH has been said and discussed over the past months and years about POR15. Do a search on it and you'll find all the info you need! I agree, doggone good stuff.

I just placed another order with the Por-15 Outlet on Ebay with free shipping on multiple items ordered. I will be painting my bed wood with the por-15 as recommended by Mar-K. (3 coats of Por-15 and then 3 coats of Behr Semigloss black)

Since I'm going for the OEM factory look, I did a lot of research on this topic. I just wish that someone would have had information on what the GM factory did to treat the bed wood. It lasted about 30 years as designed.

Here is a link to the test wood on the Mar_k site.

http://www.mar-k.com/final_summary.html

I think many people get confused with the use of POR15. It like any complex paint system today is a multi step process, not just as simple as spreading on a coat of rust inhibiting paint over your parts after you wash them down.

I have before me a 56-page catalog of POR15 products put out by POR15 Inc.
There is a;
Four step process,
1) clean it,
2) prep it,
3) paint it,
4) topcoat it.

And they manufacture three POR15 topcoats for the chassis;
a) Stirling Silver, medium-gloss silver
b) Black Coat (gloss), for frames, chassis and underhood parts of earlier vehicles.
c) Chassis Coat Black (satiny semi-gloss) which is “correct as original” for underhood and chassis components for cars produced in the USA from the early 50’s to today.

Now I don’t know anyone at Eastwood nor do I know who manufactures their rust inhibiting chassis paints, however, their product line sure does parallel that of POR15, so you can draw your own conclusions, and price comparisons.
By that I mean they sell the same 3m respirator for $49.99 that I just bought at my local PPG dealer for $19.39.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I've been using EASTWOOD RUST CONVERTER and I like it. It's water based, dries rock hard and doesn't require any top coat or surface prep other than removing loose rust, oil and the like. I apply it outdoors and it has like no odor.

I know that Eastwood products play to mixed reviews, some people love their stuff while others believe they just sell over-priced stuff to snobs who think if they pay more they get more... I have one foot in each camp. Some of their stuff sucks like their Under-Hood Black (Rustolium Satin Black rocks IMO) but I'm sold on their Rust Converter.

Somewhere out there I read a side-by-side test with POR 15 and that's why I bought it.

Of course, when it comes time to paint my bed boards black, I'll be using POR 15... I'm really glad I looked in here and found that link.